mbaran

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...he-s-here.html

my04996tt

Since today is the first warm day we've had in a while, decided to take car out of hibernation and let it run for a while. Seems like my 3 year old battery had other plans, it died even with tender connected. Tried jumping it with no success. A quick visit to Sears to get a new one and all is good. Time to put her back in hibernation for another 3 months.

pfbz

Gotta love Colorado. Sixty five day in January... Took the opportunity to get the Turbo out for a test drive, first time I've had the Turbo out since I did a boost pressure test and went through every check valve, switch, vacuum line, and pressure hose related to the turbo, waste gate, and diverter system. Plus a 2mm tweak to the wastegate preload...

All I can say is WOW!

I thought the car ran great before and there was no obvious indication of boost leaks from the boost gauge and no errors, but now the power comes on much quicker with authority. Awesome.

Oak

Removed GT3 seats and reinstalled and adjusted 6 pt harnesses, finally jumped the clutch switch since the seats were out. Zip tying the jump line was not fun. I think my back is tweaked.

bugeyemilo

Nice work sir!

no indications of a boost leak myself, but I plan to do the same with my car as well.

pfbz

Just as a tip, after reading countless threads and recommendations on how to build/make a boost tester and where to test from, the answer is pretty simple.

You want to remove the boost hose from the OUTLET of the turbos, plug one side and have a way to pressurize the other side. A 1.5" PVC pipe PLUG (not cap) is the perfect size, as it has just under a 2" OD.

Unfortunately, while plugs for other size pvc pipe (like 2", closer to 2.5" OD) are common as dirt, home depot/lowes and even a wholesale plumbing supply store didn't stock 1.5" plugs (again, not caps, and not the super-thin temporary plugs most places sell). I finally found them at Ace hardware in the sprinkler section. A whopping $2 each. (http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...uctId=29080006)

Drilled/tapped one for a schrader valve (same as a bike tire) on 1/4" NPT thread, threaded the valve in with some teflon tape, hit the outside of the plug with a sander so it wasn't so slick (stories of pressure popping them out...) and done. Worked *perfectly*!

Of course this wasn't until I built a previous tester that fit the intake airbox connector and another set of testers that fit the intake side of the turbo first. Both of those didn't work for me for reasons I won't go into detail here, but the final iteration was stone-axe simple and worked *perfectly*.

Two caps. $4. Two schrader valves (I only needed one) $4. a 1/4" NPT tap if you don't have one, $8.

This is the kind of plug you are looking for... again, super common in 2", not so common (but still findable) in 1.5"



Schrader valve on 1/4" npt:

bugeyemilo

Thank you sir, I appreciate that. Like a sucker I bought the aluminum welded boost test plugs from (I think it was) Markski tuning a long while back. haven't used them yet. prob spent 100 bucks on them. sized for my k24's. But do I greatly appreciate your post. others should take heed and save their $$!

pfbz

I have no problem with buying the Markski testers... They look super high quality and will last a lifetime. They are $115 now, plus I assume shipping. For me, it was more a lack of advance planning on not wanting to wait for a mail order before I could test rather than the cost per se, but I also like to do/make things myself if I can.

As it turns out, I probably burned at least that much time and a good chunk of that money screwing around with testing at the airbox and turbo inlets and spent plenty more build three different versions of the pressure tester before figuring it out.

Some of the very old threads on Rennlist (and other forums) have forum and tuning experts suggesting pressure test techniques that I don't think they recommend anymore, but the info is still there and a bit misleading, especially if you read the threads front to back!

PS: These are the kind of 1.5" lighweight plugs they sell at lowes and home depot, they will NOT work.

techweenie

Had my tech install a Torque Solutions transmission mount (60A) only because at 106K miles, I was imagining it was time to do so. While the car was up in the air, I looked for leaks and suspension tightness, etc. All good. The mount upgrade adds a bit of feel to the actions of the transmission (Tip) and maybe a bit of noise, but I mostly have the top down, anyway.

HBdirtbag

my 5 and 7 year old wanted donuts for breakfast....so we did donuts (this is what my wife gets for leaving me alone with them for 10 days)

KC-CarGuy

Washed it and went for a nice drive. Decided to check my insurance card in the center console. Lifted the armrest lid - AND SNAPPED THE STUPID HINGE! Who spec'd cheap plastic in that area?

mffarrell

Dock

I'm waiting for the "just buy a hinge and a couple of screws from Walmart for $4.35" post...

my04996tt

gtred

I'm in the process of replacing my center console (you can still buy all the plastic bits new from Suncoast) and I have to say that Porsche did a remarkably complicated job of putting that thing together. While a Japanese car would mold a couple of pieces of plastic , snap them together and be done, our cars have multiple pieces and a remarkable number of fasteners that intricately hold things in place. A case of overkill I think.

I now have the unfortunate job of "de-funking" the origional owner's hack job on wiring an aftermarket stereo. While the OEM unit was in place and operational when I bought the car, I soon uncovered multiple dead wiring looms, cut OEM wires, splices and runs of purple "super speaker" wire weaving in/out of every conceivable orifice.They even cut/popped my firewall seals just so the mice could find a cozy home. I just hope that everything still works when I'm done.