SSST

I know. Not another oil thread?

I need to get my oil changed tomorrow latest, and everyone in my area is out of M1 5/50. I hate to go to 0-40 with temps hovering around 100.

I found Castrol Edge 5-50 which seems to meet all the same SAE specs as M1, and I have had good experience with Castrol in the past.

Any issues running this for the next 5000 miles or so?

LVDell

I thought the Castrol Edge and Syntec oils were on the Approved list?

Why do you have to get the oil done tomorrow at the latest? See if you have an oil distributer in your area. That is the only way for me to get 5W-50 Mobil1.

Here's the distributor I use: http://www.petroliance.com/

SSST

I found 0-40 on an approved list, but it was a 2009 list. It's good oil. I've just never seen it referenced on a 996 board.

I'm leaving on a long trip next Friday and the current oil is at 5200 miles according to the service records.

Tomorrow is the last chance I have to change it.

LVDell

I'd give 5w50 more time with 5k on it before I went to 0w40 in a Turbo in H-Town.

Dock

How long is the trip (miles)?

SSST

Round trip is going to be about 2000, which includes an estimate of driving around miles. We are staying in the south and it is going to be hot.

One of my concerns I that I know from the records when the oil was changed (about 11 months), but I don't know what the weight or brand was.

PAULUNM

You should be able to use this link to find a commercial Mobil distributor-

http://www.host.exxonmobil.com/chann..._directory.jsp

Their commercial distributors usually have the 5w50 and my personal preference, Delvac 1 in stock.

Here's a couple in Houston-

Coastal Chemical Co. LLC
1312 Industrial Boulevard
Kilgore, TX 75662
903-984-5005 903-984-2708

J.A.M. Distributing Co., a Texas Corporation
7010 Mykawa Road
Houston, TX 77033
713-844-7788
800-228-3848 713-844-7715

Kevin

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...ml#post8144661

SSST

Thanks Kevin. Plenty of M1 5-40 TD oil in my area. I'll go that route

Macster

That info in that post is out of date and in some respects wrong.

Just to be sure I asked for and was given a copy of the most recent approved oils list.

Seems Porsche did NOT *rubber stamp* a bunch of oils, but issued a new approved oils list that for some oils the approval certification runs until sometime in 2013.

The only 5w-50 oil on the list is Mobil 1 5w-50.

To the OP: You know you can use Mobil 1 0w-40 oil? I recently came across a post by a 996 Turbo owner who's put over 260K miles on his Turbo and he's run Mobil 1 0w-40 oil exclusively. One would think if that oil were crap the engine would have expired by now. He's certainly had to replace other things but AFAIK he's never had to open the engine to address any internal problems due to oil or anything other vital fluid shortcoming.

Then there are countless other Turbo (and NA) car owners who care nothing, know nothing of these oil debates and who continue to run Mobil 1 0w-40 -- because that is what most Porsche dealers stock/use/sell -- and one doesn't hear of any Turbo engine troubles. The engines apparently have maintained their well-deserved rep as reliable, well-made, and well just basically sound/robust engines.

I have mentioned before I had my Boxster's oil changed in Sacramento CA and about a 1000 miles later found myself driving this car in southern AZ in 116F heat. The coolant temp was 226F and intake air temp was 135F and yet the engine suffered not one whit from this 'heat'. Apparently the oil held up quite well too since the engine has covered probably 100K miles since then and still runs just fine.

Sincerely,

Macster.

SSST

M1 5-40 is how I ended up going. I wanted the 50 just because of the extreme heat we are getting here in Texas this summer. I only plan to leave it in for 5000 miles, so it should be fine.

I'll order M1 5-50 from the local auto parts store for the next change.

PAULUNM

The first half of those 260-300k miles were probably on the "old" 0w40 formula...

But let's not open that can of worms again...

SSST

I enjoyed doing the change. Definitely more involved than my truck and I know it was done right.

One first for me was getting the car up on four jacks. That was easier than I thought, but was pretty nervous jacking up the rear for the first time using the spine just aft of the crankcase.

I was praying I got the right spot the whole time.

blueviewlaguna

I have never jacked up my tt for an oil change - I just access the oil tank drain from the side, behind the tire. Nightmares of a crack in one of the crankcase halves keep me from jacking in that area...

NewYorkBuck

Ok, if I could interject here.

I finally got around to swapping out my 0W-40 for the more IMS friendly Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40. Did it at just about exactly 20k on the clock. A few points -

1 - Never have to jack up my car for an oil change. Seems all four drains are pretty accessible. The toughest is the oil tank since its furthest away and you need two wrenches, but I got it done w all four wheels on the ground and a bum left rotator cuff.

2 - I have a Pella oil extractor, so I use it to vacuum out the filter housing and to take some of the huge volume out of the oil tank. A word to the wise for those who think the Pella can get all the oil out of the tank - it cannot. After my Pella was done sucking the oil out, the removal of the drain plug yielded at least another 1-2 quarts. The amount of oil in that tank cannot be overstated.

3 - For those who dont use Kevin's advice of pouring some oil down the new filer - you need to do this. The last time I changed, I didnt and it took at least 3-4 very long seconds for me to get a pressure reading when starting. This time, I put almost a quart down the filter, and the pressure came up in a second or so just like any other start.

4 - I did not remove my fuel pump fuse, and to be honest with if you do #3 above, I dont see the benefit to it. For starters, the oil pressure builds as fast as a regular start. Further, if you do it by battery or by gas, the engine is still going to need so many revolutions till the oil gets moved through. Either way your causing wear. Granted, with the battery turning the engine the RPMs are lower and may cause less wear for the same number of revolutions, but my guess is any advantage here is not worth the trouble.

5 - Cut open my old filter. Didnt see any shiny metal debris, even in direct sunlight.....

6 - Engine did sound quieter w Delvac 1. Not night and day, but def noticable if you're listening for it.

and last

7 - As soon as I finished my oil change I drove from NYC to upstate rural Pa to see my dad for fathers day. Drive is 155 miles each way, 100 highway, 55 semi-highway country roads. Also took it for a 20 mile very spirited jaunt on one of the nice twisty desolate country roads up there. When I got back home, my car didnt register any oil consumption. With the 0W-40, that would have been at least an 1/8th and more likely a 1/4 of a quart.

Although my UOA on the Delvac will tell much when its time, early reports are that this stuff or its ilk is the way to go for our turbos.