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Old 01-20-2011 | 06:46 PM
  #16  
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PERFECTO !!!!
Old 01-20-2011 | 06:48 PM
  #17  
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I've never understood why people put snake (pun intended) oiled filters in their car when REAL TUNERS have shown time and time again that there is ZERO gain (and many times, loss!) with these aftermarket units.

Companies tout these outrageous claims of hp gains and the gullible fall for it hook, line, and sinker.
Old 01-20-2011 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin
Best advice is to keep your stock intake.. If you have large turbochargers I do have a solution but already have large injectors and are making over 600 wheel HP..

Go look at the factory 997TT. Cold air has to enter the airbox. You can mimic the 997TT airbox by cutting a extra hole in the factory box. However, you need to fabricate another duct from your rear wing to the box. You CANNOT have engine heat migrating into the airbox.

There are very little gains with aftermarket filters > stay with the Mahle original filter element! If you want to have more power>torque> change your turbocharger inlet pipes/ducts.
Exactly Kevin!

Here the big names only do it for GT3's with 4L + kits and TT's with +600ps.
Not really needed for anything below.
Old 01-21-2011 | 11:59 AM
  #19  
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So something like this will be much better, right?
Old 01-21-2011 | 03:21 PM
  #20  
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Do you see the K&N oiled filter.. I can see the red oil..

Fit is key.. If you have stock turbochargers>keep the factory airbox..
Old 01-21-2011 | 04:28 PM
  #21  
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Stock Turbo air box/filter has seals against a rubber seal that ensures air from outside the engine compartment is fed to the engine.

That airbox setup looks like it can pick up air from inside the engine compartment. That's not good for performance.

Sincerely,

Macster.
Old 01-21-2011 | 05:42 PM
  #22  
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The airbox in post 19 does have seals for both sides (and the additional snorkel for the left side). If you're willing to do a bit of fab to get it installed cleanly & properly (typical AP), it's not a bad box as far as freeing up some pressure drop and not killing your MAF in the process. I believe gains were around 12hp at the 600hp level, so yeah, on stock turbos, not really needed

Edit: Even with this intake, I'd keep the stock filter in there.

Last edited by earl3; 01-21-2011 at 06:01 PM.
Old 01-21-2011 | 06:50 PM
  #23  
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The 12HP is suspect on stock turbochargers!

Like I mentioned, if you have stock turbochargers>keep the stock airbox and filter.
Old 01-21-2011 | 06:51 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Kevin
The 12HP is suspect on stock turbochargers!

Like I mentioned, if you have stock turbochargers>keep the stock airbox and filter.
yeah they were billet wheels at 1.8 bar where they saw the 12hp. Agree it's worthless on stock turbos.
Old 01-21-2011 | 06:57 PM
  #25  
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I have the intake from agency power in the car right now but going back to stock airbox. Thanks to all
Old 01-22-2011 | 04:24 AM
  #26  
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The whole 'air filter upgrade' is fueled by vendors seeking high margin ($$$) sales with something any moron with a screwdriver can slap on...and fill him with pride when he opens the hood. The engine revs a bit faster when parked (not when driving under load) and people like the sound. Ca-Ching.

Getting 12HP from an air filter is like changing the plug on a lamp to make it brighter.

Until you upgrade all the components in the motor (ie turbos, fueling, programming) there is nothing to gained with intake/air fitlers. If it is pulling in warm air, it is actually worse.

Use stock elements and just change them at 2x the factory frequency.
Old 01-22-2011 | 07:54 AM
  #27  
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Bingo... I Bought the VIVID carbon lid and duct, then realized that the duct wouldn't easily work with my GT2 rear decklid, so I am going back to the stock box...

That said, all this "crowing" about air seal, although valid, is VERY EASY to fix if you have a little patience and are familiar with McMaster-Carr online. They'll sent you any type of seals you could imagine to seal up pretty much anything.
Even the AP airbox lid can get an excellent seal if you know what to order and how to install it.

Mike
Old 01-22-2011 | 11:43 AM
  #28  
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I just kept it stock..

1. In the real world, is the 0-5 hp gained worth lots more dirt in the engine, oil on the MAF's, and perhaps time lost to CEL's. My guess is you could actually LO)SE power.

2. Is the paper filter used to the max....um, no. When I had a 993 and asked a shop owner this question, he told me a story about a racing (cup) 996 they had. Had a big filter....brand new, on a dyno...put tape over it, duct tape...half, then half, then half...they saw NO change with a brand new filter with it at 1/8th.

Kevin, you have dynos...the next time you dyno a tt engine, it would be fun to repeat this.....if you have the time. Putting this issue to rest with a graph would be interesting and probably a good thing for all TT owners.

At that point, he concluded the issues on the NA cars (and really any others) are not the filters. Porsche does a great job on the filters.

So, I am stock. I don't want more dirt in my expensive to me engine. If you want max HP, waste 30 bucks every 6 months and put a new filter in. Save the rest for DE costs.
The stock turbo assembly, in my mind, is really nicely made, fits well, and once you figure out the secret handshake to get it in and out fast, a real pleasure to use. Plus, MAF's are expensive. A few years ago I posted something on the dirt that gets through the various filters. In a nutshell, paper (stock) is the best for the longest for your car.

The only issue is it is not fun to buy a paper filter. Perhaps we need to make a more sexy stock filter and sell it for 25$ extra....



Jeff

Last edited by jcb-memphis; 01-23-2011 at 12:11 PM.
Old 02-01-2011 | 08:04 PM
  #29  
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This is Joe Fabiani at Fabspeed Motorsport USA
Let me give you a little background on how Fabspeed USA designed and DYNO developed our Porsche 996TT high performance air intake system and how we design other air intake systems.

There are detailed VIDEO explanations along with verified actual DYNO data that supports all of our air intake systems. In additional if the parts does not make power we do not sell or release it regardless of sales potential.

Porsche seals their airboxes and sizes the actual openings a certain cars to reduce induction sound or intake roar and to make the cars quiet and to determine maximum intake flow. These are engineering parameters.

I noticed back in 2001 that German tuners/engine builders (9FF, Sportec and etc) and other USA engine builders tuners were using an airsaw to CUT OPEN the entire top face of the stock OEM Porsche factory airbox in order to make more power and sports car sound. The reciprocating saw irreversibly destroys the factory OEM airbox lid.

Since we have a inhouse Dyno and I have been designing products for 996TT cars since 1999 I had the opportunity to test OPEN airbox designs and evaluate different open designs. I used a DYNO with an automated weather station so there were NO bogus correction factors nor games in our testing.

Ultimately Fabspeed Motorsport designed and released a fully DYNO and track tested 996TT high performance air intake system that 100% works as advertised.

Our intake consists of a replacement air intake coverlid that is manufactured in house from CNC aluminum plate with carbon fiber bottom heat shield. The Fabspeed Motorsport 996TT & GT2 intake system works with either the factory paper filter or a BMC F1 or K&N filter. This system fits any and all Porsche 996TT cars with no interference anwhere.

Our system has been independently DYNO tested and shown in numerous tests to make an additional +20HP over stock. This is power that one can easily feel and it is all true.

FYI- allPorsche 996, 997, 996TT, 997TT engines have a engine lid FAN that continually BLOWS cold air directly onto the factory airbox when the driver is stuck in traffic. This is the "stuck in traffic fan" and you get all the cold air that engine requires when you are stuck in beltway traffic. When the car is rolling and driving away the REAR louvers in each and every Porsche 996TT engine lid scoops massive quantities of cold air into the engine bay. Porsche 996TT engines hydraulically lift up the rear spoiler at speed and DIVERT and SCOOP tons of cold ambient air into the engine bay and a 996TT engine easily grabs it and the DYNO data do not lie.

If you are having problems with your Porsche MAF sensor buy a $10 bottle of CRC Maf sensor spray and clean your sensor. Kevin have you ever tried one of our air intakes?

Happy New Year to everyone!


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Old 02-01-2011 | 09:26 PM
  #30  
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The only tuner in Germany that does this is 9FF.. Let them. As far as my customers that buy my tunes and products I do not endorse a open filter panel. The reason >> the engine is sucking in hot air at low RPM's.. It might be fine on the Autobahn at 160mph but when most of our lives are spend in stop and go traffic and daily driving to and from work. It is the speed less than 50mph that will produce detonation and misfires when the hot air is sucked into the intake tract.

We have 6 degree of retard at 60 degree C.. The heat in the engine compartment is alot hotter than that. To a point where Porsche has installed a fan to evac the heat.

This engine needs to have COOL ducted air to the intake. That's the way the factory designed it and have taken it one step further to add two ducted inlets on the 997TT.

Your filter element will also cost each user a new MAF. And no amount of "cleaner" will restore the voltage readings of the non oxidized filiment.

While this airbox might show you a gain in HP on a 6 second dyno run, under sustained load in city driving you will make LESS power. It has nothing to do with airflow and CFM. It has everything to do with COOL air entering the engine. This airbox will work if one installed IC's the size of diesel truck radiator.


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