Stage X X X X --Thats 4 X's
#151
Advanced
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From a car perspective- you'll probably appreciate your mods in first gear alot, less so in second, and not too much in third. I agree with your streetability concerns from a standing start, but you have so much torque that it probably isn't an issue.
From a driver perspective- haven't driven a 600+rwhp 996tt, but having driven more powerful Supras, I like your gearing even more. The initial disorientation early in acceleration usually is when you spool in 1st, to some degree in 2nd. By making these two gears a little more humane without messing too much with third is a good idea.
Is Paul Guard doing the gears?
From a driver perspective- haven't driven a 600+rwhp 996tt, but having driven more powerful Supras, I like your gearing even more. The initial disorientation early in acceleration usually is when you spool in 1st, to some degree in 2nd. By making these two gears a little more humane without messing too much with third is a good idea.
Is Paul Guard doing the gears?
#152
Rennlist Lifetime Member
Chad,
I ran similar gears in my last TT and it was just about right. I was blasting 1st gear faster than I could move my hand. IMHO I like a little taller 1/2/3 for big HP. Even the old 930s I say stay with the 4 speed when headed down the HP road. That is just a second longer than I need to when shifting. Not sure why I would need that <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
I ran similar gears in my last TT and it was just about right. I was blasting 1st gear faster than I could move my hand. IMHO I like a little taller 1/2/3 for big HP. Even the old 930s I say stay with the 4 speed when headed down the HP road. That is just a second longer than I need to when shifting. Not sure why I would need that <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
#153
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
cjv
My '88 Ruf CTR weighed 1220kg (fuelled up) and put out about 530hp (with the boost **** wound up) and the gearing on the Ruf 6 speeder at 7000rpm gave:
1st - 47mph
2nd - 80mph
3rd - 113mph
4th - 150mph
5th - 193mph
6th - 236mph
Those bottom 3 gears look similar to what you are pondering.
With the CTR the gearing was just right and getting off the line wasn't a problem, I G Teched it at 0-60 in 3.4 seconds. Maybe the weight of the 996 may count against the gearing but,all I can remember is feeling that massive surge for what seemed like an eternity between shifts (relatively speaking of course) -of course 5th and 6th gear were a bit of a waste of time in the UK
My '88 Ruf CTR weighed 1220kg (fuelled up) and put out about 530hp (with the boost **** wound up) and the gearing on the Ruf 6 speeder at 7000rpm gave:
1st - 47mph
2nd - 80mph
3rd - 113mph
4th - 150mph
5th - 193mph
6th - 236mph
Those bottom 3 gears look similar to what you are pondering.
With the CTR the gearing was just right and getting off the line wasn't a problem, I G Teched it at 0-60 in 3.4 seconds. Maybe the weight of the 996 may count against the gearing but,all I can remember is feeling that massive surge for what seemed like an eternity between shifts (relatively speaking of course) -of course 5th and 6th gear were a bit of a waste of time in the UK
#154
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Chad:
FWIW, IMO, your tranny gear changes seem right on, with the exception of first gear. I think the new first gear ratio is too tall at 3.167 -- that's more than a 20% change. I'd consider at most only making first gear 10% taller than your current stock setup. But....what do I know. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Continued good luck with the project and I look forward to seeing you up in Monterey in August. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
FWIW, IMO, your tranny gear changes seem right on, with the exception of first gear. I think the new first gear ratio is too tall at 3.167 -- that's more than a 20% change. I'd consider at most only making first gear 10% taller than your current stock setup. But....what do I know. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Continued good luck with the project and I look forward to seeing you up in Monterey in August. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
#156
My '88 Ruf CTR weighed 1220kg (fuelled up) and put out about 530hp (with the boost **** wound up)
TB993tt,
was it 530 at the flywheel or rear wheels? what boost were you runnint at? I love the yellowbird.
TB993tt,
was it 530 at the flywheel or rear wheels? what boost were you runnint at? I love the yellowbird.
#157
None in particular, just curious to see if you decided on something. Did you see the seats in the GT pics posted in the "General" forum...looks like a combination of the GT3 and the 993RS/964Speedster seats....two tone with a carbon shell would look very nice.
#158
Rennlist Lifetime Member
Chad,
Love the over-head display....Looks quality and as if it was meant to be...my type of install. <img src="http://www.c2turbo.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif" alt=" - " />
Love the over-head display....Looks quality and as if it was meant to be...my type of install. <img src="http://www.c2turbo.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif" alt=" - " />
#160
They made a whole new TB? The housing and other pieces look different?
#162
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by cjv:
<strong>Just received additional pics of intercooler gauge,
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">cjv
Those intercooler temp guages are fun, but they are not that useful.
If you plug a hammer into your cars DME and read off "Air inlet temp" during a run from say 3000rpm to 6500rpm and compare the rising temp figures with what the guage tells you, you will see what I mean, the guage is far slower to react to the changes and will actually miss the peak readings (before the temp drops again thro' intercooling and less boost)
I still have mine installed however as it gives a general indication of the air temp you are working with.
<strong>Just received additional pics of intercooler gauge,
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">cjv
Those intercooler temp guages are fun, but they are not that useful.
If you plug a hammer into your cars DME and read off "Air inlet temp" during a run from say 3000rpm to 6500rpm and compare the rising temp figures with what the guage tells you, you will see what I mean, the guage is far slower to react to the changes and will actually miss the peak readings (before the temp drops again thro' intercooling and less boost)
I still have mine installed however as it gives a general indication of the air temp you are working with.
#165
Nordschleife Master
Chad,
I plotted your hp and torque numbers in an Excel spreadsheet and the results are interesting. Any thoughts on what is causing the cycling? It appears to happen in regular intervals, like the computer is reacting to something. I know you have two separate fueling systems, is it possible that the AIC is affecting the stock ECU? Additionally, have you put your car on a newer dyno or are you still using the older one? If you can find someone with a Dynapack dyno, you'll be able to use the 4wd and even see the differential between the front and rear. They Dynapack dyno is the latest style that actually bolts to your wheel hubs and therefore does not allow the wheels to slip. The dyno actually controls the car, much like an engine dyno and IMO is more accurate than the older style dynos.
I plotted your hp and torque numbers in an Excel spreadsheet and the results are interesting. Any thoughts on what is causing the cycling? It appears to happen in regular intervals, like the computer is reacting to something. I know you have two separate fueling systems, is it possible that the AIC is affecting the stock ECU? Additionally, have you put your car on a newer dyno or are you still using the older one? If you can find someone with a Dynapack dyno, you'll be able to use the 4wd and even see the differential between the front and rear. They Dynapack dyno is the latest style that actually bolts to your wheel hubs and therefore does not allow the wheels to slip. The dyno actually controls the car, much like an engine dyno and IMO is more accurate than the older style dynos.