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I am paying attention; I've done this twice on two different cars, one with 35k miles and one with 180k miles. I washed all of my parts in kerosene or gasoline, including the outside of the engine. The 180k mile engine was completely covered with oil on top from leaking O-rings on the oil cooler. The 35k mile engine had a good amount of oil dirt on it, probably from a poorly sealed joint at the oil cooler console to engine case.
When you get to wanting new parts, O-rings, seals, clamps, be forewarned there are some errors in the parts catalog and some of the superseded part numbers, mainly hoses, are not direct fits.
By the way I do agree about having clean parts. It is so much easier to work on clean parts and so much easier to find leaks.
Man I'd really love to pick your brain!! Sadly my garage is in the basement of my house, and below my bedroom. I have zero desire to use anything flammable to clean, even though I understand the appeal. For me it will have to be simple green, some brake clean, and patience. It won't be a concours level clean; but again... that's alright.
Hopefully some of the items are not unobtanium, at least in the rubber/vent hose/coolant hose category. I did have to cut one of the turbo oil feed lines, but if that needs to be made out of braided line, I can figure that out. Otherwise, it's just a lot of rubber and plastic that I'm going to replace.
While not P-car parts, here’s an example of parts I’ve been cleaning, sadly mine aren’t as pretty, as I didn’t go for re-plating. Wishing I did after seeing this.
Well... I am definitely *NOT* going to try and keep up with some of you guys on this forum... without ado... more pics of progress the last week
A reasonably clean garage floor.... before this beast puked *ALL* over it. Loved the fuel cooler!!!! Where fuel cooler attaches layer and layers of stuff Not enough clearance to remove the turbo without the manifold removed. RTV??? WTF on the exhaust side... This intake is hateful. This line runs to the FPR - and was loose from the first time I started disassembly. See this lone red wire, off the positive jump start battery stud? What's it for? I doubt it's factory? And it has a break in the insulation. Again... lone red wire. Manifold finally off. runners and intake look perfectly clean. WOOT! Doesn't feel like it, but this is progress. This engine is like an archeological dig. About here is where I really questioned my logic in not having drained the engine oil.... So it got drained into clean containers (it only has 1000 miles on it) and saved for initial start up after it's back together. We'll run it up to temp a couple times and then change the oil. Boy some of these hoses and lines look bad. Coming apart, please pardon my mess. I gave up and just said everything is filthy and I'll clean it all up when it's done puking. I swear every time I thought I had gotten over the pukes, here it goes again. She was a very sick patient.
Oil Scavenge pump drive is really cute. So tiny. It appears this o-ring and the front crank seal were starting to both leak oil. Not bad yet, but neither location was dry.
Again, embarrassed by the messy pics. but man this think has sooo many orifices from which fluid can leak. Wow.
I swear the garage floor did start out clean. Bare Block! well, as close as it's getting. Tons of grime. Time to clean.
Passenger side looking better.
Prepping turbos to send to Markski
Anyone recognize this header??? this diverter valve cap was very loose. odd. taking turbos apart to ship to Markski
Cleaning the wiring harness; this rubber line is toasted.
Cleaning the engine harness This line is shot.
cleaned and ready to go back in. Yes, the bumpers are dirty. cleaned and ready for install....except for that red wire.
I have two 996 Turbos. The second time I knew to drain the oil beforehand, and I used a vacuum pump to suck out as much coolant from the hoses as I could before disconnecting them. I also left the A/C compressor in the car, you wanted to recharge the system so you disconnected it. I also left the P/S pump in the car, which cannot be done with the stock power clutch because the power clutch hard lines are in the way. One of my cars is a Tiptronic and the other has a GT2 slave, so no power clutch lines for me.
I ended up pulling the engine in the black car three times because of a bad fuel injector and then a bad crank position sensor that was hard to diagnose.
I can see a few things that you are going to find out as you look for O-ring and such, errors in the parts catalog. 1) The part# for the turbo drain box gaskets is completely wrong, the parts catalog# is a copper washer not an O-ring, so look up the part# in the 997 Turbo parts catalog. 2) The stainless bleed line from the engine to the oil filter has 2 O-rings on the bottom, not 1 like the parts catalog shows. 3) The omega clips that hold the big coolant lines in use two different sizes. Don't mix them up. The parts catalog shows three of the larger size and one of the smaller size. This is wrong, it should be two and two, two smaller ones for the engine and two bigger ones for the aluminum hard lines. Or the other way around, I can't remember. 4) Check the hose that links the two fuel rails together. Lots of these are cracked like that smaller hose you showed. I had mine rebuilt at a hydraulic shop. 5) You might want to have the fuel injectors cleaned and balanced. They are very tough to get out with the engine in the car. 6) Use sealant on the flywheel end passenger side bolt of the alternator bracket or you'll have an oil leak that's hard to track down. 7) The cover for the turbo scavenge pump on my '03 was glued with sealant in addition to the O-ring, my '01 wasn't like this. 8) The part#'s for the fuel line disconnect O-rings are hard to find, they are on the page at the bottom and are called "beige" and "black" O-rings.
I have two 996 Turbos. The second time I knew to drain the oil beforehand, and I used a vacuum pump to suck out as much coolant from the hoses as I could before disconnecting them. I also left the A/C compressor in the car, you wanted to recharge the system so you disconnected it. I also left the P/S pump in the car, which cannot be done with the stock power clutch because the power clutch hard lines are in the way. One of my cars is a Tiptronic and the other has a GT2 slave, so no power clutch lines for me.
I ended up pulling the engine in the black car three times because of a bad fuel injector and then a bad crank position sensor that was hard to diagnose.
I can see a few things that you are going to find out as you look for O-ring and such, errors in the parts catalog. 1) The part# for the turbo drain box gaskets is completely wrong, the parts catalog# is a copper washer not an O-ring, so look up the part# in the 997 Turbo parts catalog. 2) The stainless bleed line from the engine to the oil filter has 2 O-rings on the bottom, not 1 like the parts catalog shows. 3) The omega clips that hold the big coolant lines in use two different sizes. Don't mix them up. The parts catalog shows three of the larger size and one of the smaller size. This is wrong, it should be two and two, two smaller ones for the engine and two bigger ones for the aluminum hard lines. Or the other way around, I can't remember. 4) Check the hose that links the two fuel rails together. Lots of these are cracked like that smaller hose you showed. I had mine rebuilt at a hydraulic shop. 5) You might want to have the fuel injectors cleaned and balanced. They are very tough to get out with the engine in the car. 6) Use sealant on the flywheel end passenger side bolt of the alternator bracket or you'll have an oil leak that's hard to track down. 7) The cover for the turbo scavenge pump on my '03 was glued with sealant in addition to the O-ring, my '01 wasn't like this. 8) The part#'s for the fuel line disconnect O-rings are hard to find, they are on the page at the bottom and are called "beige" and "black" O-rings.
SOOOOO MANY THANK YOUS!!
Invaluable little tidbits that only come with experience.
The car is getting new injectors, and I will probably have the hydraulic shop work on those lines. No point in going this far and not re-doing stuff. The sealant on the alternator bolt is GOLD!
I didn't see any evidence of sealant on the oil scavenge pump, but I haven't cleaned that one yet. So... time will tell.
Did you buy all new Omega clips??? I can't tell if they should really be replaced or not?
If the omega clips are in good shape there is no reason to replace them. I reused the ones from my low-miles car and replaced them on my high miles car because they were bent funny.
While not P-car parts, here’s an example of parts I’ve been cleaning, sadly mine aren’t as pretty, as I didn’t go for re-plating. Wishing I did after seeing this.
While not P-car parts, here’s an example of parts I’ve been cleaning, sadly mine aren’t as pretty, as I didn’t go for re-plating. Wishing I did after seeing this.
03-29-2022, 12:29 AM
