After 14 years...
#108
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Those look pretty dam good, considerably better than my Bilsteins.
#109
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Spring Cleaning
Spacers front and rear
Replaced OLD fuel pump and sender (was whining very loud)
New Fuel Pump and sender
Other suggestions:
- take your time, take your time / read the instructions… expect the car to be down for 48hrs
- have a digital caliper, capable of going at least 8 inches (you will need to get an exact 195mm) I don’t like to eyeball stuff like that. I used a ruler with a tick mark to get it close, then used the digi caliper to get it spot on for preload. The digi-caliper is a MUST for ride height adjustments also.
- take your time / read the instructions
- take a photo of your roll bar end link mounting points, front and rear. It matters because you will begin to doubt yourself when you re-install
- Read over the instructions a few times, its not a hard job, just tedious, and there are a few Ohlins specific parameters that will need to be set..i.e. spring preload (thats why you need a digital caliper)
- did i say take your time & read the instructions?
- the front is harder than the rear (of course). The hardest part is the front suspension removal…almost the same as replacing a front drive shaft.
- when doing the front, do one side at a time…you know why
-Once the rear is installed, DONT reassemble the rear deck portion inside the car until you get a good test drive out of the way. This is because, for the rear, the damper settings are made from the top of the shock, which is inside the car. The front can be done anytime, its adjustment is on the bottom of the shock. Outside the car.
- Be SURE you understand the difference in adjusting PRE-LOAD and RIDE HEIGHT…read instructions.
3- my initial thoughts. Awesome. I went with a damper setting of 8 all the way around, and its GREAT! Yes, that’s subjective, but so is every other opinion. Bottom line for me, they were well worth it.
Spacers front and rear
Replaced OLD fuel pump and sender (was whining very loud)
New Fuel Pump and sender
Other suggestions:
- take your time, take your time / read the instructions… expect the car to be down for 48hrs
- have a digital caliper, capable of going at least 8 inches (you will need to get an exact 195mm) I don’t like to eyeball stuff like that. I used a ruler with a tick mark to get it close, then used the digi caliper to get it spot on for preload. The digi-caliper is a MUST for ride height adjustments also.
- take your time / read the instructions
- take a photo of your roll bar end link mounting points, front and rear. It matters because you will begin to doubt yourself when you re-install
- Read over the instructions a few times, its not a hard job, just tedious, and there are a few Ohlins specific parameters that will need to be set..i.e. spring preload (thats why you need a digital caliper)
- did i say take your time & read the instructions?
- the front is harder than the rear (of course). The hardest part is the front suspension removal…almost the same as replacing a front drive shaft.
- when doing the front, do one side at a time…you know why
-Once the rear is installed, DONT reassemble the rear deck portion inside the car until you get a good test drive out of the way. This is because, for the rear, the damper settings are made from the top of the shock, which is inside the car. The front can be done anytime, its adjustment is on the bottom of the shock. Outside the car.
- Be SURE you understand the difference in adjusting PRE-LOAD and RIDE HEIGHT…read instructions.
3- my initial thoughts. Awesome. I went with a damper setting of 8 all the way around, and its GREAT! Yes, that’s subjective, but so is every other opinion. Bottom line for me, they were well worth it.
Last edited by Tanks95; 05-12-2019 at 12:36 AM.
#111
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
lol, logical question. Short answer, not much, because its not where i want it mechanically. This is "my way" with used toys. i like to deep dive them mechanically....makes me feel like its mine, AND i get t know it internally / mechanically which is most important to me.
my old mechanic days have stayed with me, when buying a performance car its very important for me to work out every issue before long term driving.
now that all the little things have been worked out, ill do a short 20 - 30 mile run. Set the ride height (giving the suspension time to settle), and then send all fluids out to be tested. Once thats done, then and only then will i be comfortable wringing her out on the weekends. Crazy, i know. But, there is a reason and a method behind this craziness.
it will get driven, no worries about that. this is not quick flip car for me, this is a keeper. but, it is a toy, and there are other priorities.
good stuff
my old mechanic days have stayed with me, when buying a performance car its very important for me to work out every issue before long term driving.
now that all the little things have been worked out, ill do a short 20 - 30 mile run. Set the ride height (giving the suspension time to settle), and then send all fluids out to be tested. Once thats done, then and only then will i be comfortable wringing her out on the weekends. Crazy, i know. But, there is a reason and a method behind this craziness.
it will get driven, no worries about that. this is not quick flip car for me, this is a keeper. but, it is a toy, and there are other priorities.
good stuff
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Dingo (10-09-2019)
#112
Burning Brakes
Looking good William! What size spacers did you go with? That is a trick exhaust with the pipes off the bypass, look forward to your feedback.
#113
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#115
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#117
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Funny, I was like William - everything that could be a problem is addressed before you get 'er on the road...
#119
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Yes, I am guilty of that too - I didn't really need the GT3RS shifter, or the exhaust, or the rads, but they are pretty cool...