Oh the tuning "Fix"!!

It's like a drug I tell ya!! lol

 

Okay, i am glad you said that. So this thing is FREAKING fast, and yes i've driven some fast cars, but never like this. I mean, most here may not believe me, but its "good enough" fast....as in, i only plan to wash, wax, and maybe add some nice floor mats then call it GOOD ENOUGH fast.

All of my children are adults, but if they were still in the house, i would have to hide the keys to this monster.

I LOVE IT!!!!

This car is phenomenal!

 

What are the advertised horsepower and torque numbers?

 

good question Dock. I asked that also, Sam will have to chime in on that one. Some Tuners yell their numbers from the rooftops, Sam was different...i had more questions about MAF-less and drive-ability. I 'believe' it was around 75 - 80 to the wheels....again, Sam would be the best POC for that data.

the local tuner kids around here have dyno days sometimes, and they have an AWD dyno....i may drop in one weekend.

 

Can I just say. Told you so. Enjoy!

 

According to EVOMS their Stage II "Hammer" tune (that's what I have in my car) is something around 520 hp/tq at the flywheel (I wouldn't ever dyno my 996 Turbo to find out what the actual numbers are). For street-only driving on stock wheel/tire sizes I personally think that horsepower and torque levels around 500-550 at the flywheel are just about perfect.

 

Hi
Yes on the X 50 we pick up over 100 at the crank but I always like to be conservative. It all depends on so many things like the exhaust the fuel and so on. But we use the data logs to get as much as we can and keep the car happy/safe and smooth.

 

Is William's 996 Turbo X50 equipped?

What is the non-X50 number (conservatively of course)?

 

Yes, you did tell me!

If 26 years in the military didn’t teach me anything, it taught me how to eat crow. I’ve done it so much, it tastes like chicken to me...lol


agreed, plenty of power...but i will dyno at some point.

yes she is (X50)...that was on the must have list for purchase.

 

On the K16 cars with exhaust they make a ton of tq but the turbos just run out. So tech trick is a smooth curve and keeping the power flowing as well as possible. We see about 480-500 crank hp on the standard turbo cars.

 

Great thread and wonderful to see what you’ve done to your car in such a short time frame! Sounds and looks amazing. Enjoy!

 

Thank you

 

FPR removal tool…

After pulling on the FPR retaining clip for 10min, I thought, wait a minute….lets make a tool!

Used one of many cheap flat-tip screwdrivers
Torch
Vice…and Violia!

Removed FPR in under 10 seconds

 

installation complete

 

A fellow forum member asked me three questions regarding the Ohlins install I did. This got me thinking, I should post these to the thread.

The member asked:
1-purchase location and price.
2-Install tips and settings for height/dampening
3-initial thoughts on pros and cons of this set up.


*****MY ANSWERS***

1. I purchased them from https://www.rallysportdirect.com/ i paid $2790 to my front door.

2. I used the recommended Ohlins base settings, specific to our car (in the instructions). However, after seeing it on the ground...for "my" taste, i actually raised it 5 mm. I would absolutely suggest going with the recommendations in the instructions to get it all set, then personalize from there.

Other suggestions:

- take your time, take your time / read the instructions… expect the car to be down for 48hrs

- have a digital caliper, capable of going at least 8 inches (you will need to get an exact 195mm) I don’t like to eyeball stuff like that. I used a ruler with a tick mark to get it close, then used the digi caliper to get it spot on for preload. The digi-caliper is a MUST for ride height adjustments also.

- take your time / read the instructions

- take a photo of your roll bar end link mounting points, front and rear. It matters because you will begin to doubt yourself when you re-install

- Read over the instructions a few times, its not a hard job, just tedious, and there are a few Ohlins specific parameters that will need to be set..i.e. spring preload (thats why you need a digital caliper)

- did i say take your time & read the instructions?

- the front is harder than the rear (of course). The hardest part is the front suspension removal…almost the same as replacing a front drive shaft.

- when doing the front, do one side at a time…you know why

-Once the rear is installed, DONT reassemble the rear deck portion inside the car until you get a good test drive out of the way. This is because, for the rear, the damper settings are made from the top of the shock, which is inside the car. The front can be done anytime, its adjustment is on the bottom of the shock. Outside the car.

- Be SURE you understand the difference in adjusting PRE-LOAD and RIDE HEIGHT…read instructions.


3- my initial thoughts. Awesome. I went with a damper setting of 8 all the way around, and its GREAT! Yes, that’s subjective, but so is every other opinion. Bottom line for me, they were well worth it.