those should help with broken tabs. i had the same issue, which helped me decide to swap for nearly the first set of led tails to hit US shores. no affiliation with chi-comm..I just ordered early and it only took 2+ years to get them made. the one pet peeve i had of the car was the "dinginess" of the rear tails.

one thing i would suggest, as an item oft overlooked - but capable of causing boost loss issues that require diagnosis/head scratching in equal measure later - the c-clips at the ic hoses. the retaining clips have a tendency to lose their integrity, over time. expensive c-clips, but not a mistaken "preventative".

 

oh yea, where is this cable supposed to go?????

It was coiled up behind the d/s taillight???

 

put it somewhere you can reach without opening anything. Its in case the battery dies and you need to get in. Wheel well... zip tie it someplace. Same for the one in the front. You can also always add a tender to the cigarette plug. These cars are meant to be jumped from the rear though...

 

Good stuff, thanks.

 

I usually use a small piece of electrical tape and loop the wire around, so the wire is at the edge of the light, and can be pulled out easily.
Why would you jump start the car from the rear? If had to jump start the car, it would be from the frunk at the battery.

 

There is a positive jump-start terminal in the engine compartment, next to the oil filter.

 

Am aware car can be jumped from rear, but why not jump directly from battery?

 

Convenience? The engine bay terminal is easier to access, no reaching in. Plus its easy to grab a non-terminal ground spot on the motor. Just guessing, plus it seems more "normal" to jump in the engine bay after decades of American car ownership for me anyway. I'm sure either way works.

 

soooo, the heat shields on each of the turbos is rusted, and the 3rd mount point tab is broken on both. What have most people done.

consider it normal and reinstall with the two good mount points?
Purchase two new oem covers?
Go with Turbo blankets (or wrap thingy)?

Thanks in advance

 

Super common. I just bolted it back on as is. It's not load bearing

 

^ +1

 

good stuff, thanks.

 

Exhaust weight

 

The rear of the 911 is a good, safe distance away from the battery in the frunk. BMWs with the battery in the trunk also have a positive terminal in the engine compartment for jumping.

It's good general practice to keep possible sparks away from the battery itself whenever possible due to the potential for igniting battery fumes. (Probably not likely, but battery explosion = high injury potential.)

That's why in vehicles with batteries located in the engine compartment it's recommended to attach the positive lead to the positive terminal of the dead battery first, then make the connections to the charge source, then lastly attach the negative lead to a ground away from the dead battery (to distance possible sparks from the vicinity of the battery/fumes).

 

OP, thanks for posting the weight of the stock exhaust. It ain't light, lol.