996 GT3 4 Liter
#92
I was shooting for completion before I go to Europe in August, but as you can imagine, there are unforeseen delays every step of the way. So, in short, I'll tell you that it will be done this year, and I plan to hit the track hard in 2012. Besides, my personalized license plates aren't here yet!
Next step is to calculate the volume of the combustion chamber. The pistons are spec'd to be 12.0:1 compression, but we will increase compression with the aid of eccentric wrist pin bushings. Porsche's 4.0 is 12.6:1! The smaller diameter wrist pins used with the new pistons (and therefore thicker rod bushing) allows us to do so.
Next step is to calculate the volume of the combustion chamber. The pistons are spec'd to be 12.0:1 compression, but we will increase compression with the aid of eccentric wrist pin bushings. Porsche's 4.0 is 12.6:1! The smaller diameter wrist pins used with the new pistons (and therefore thicker rod bushing) allows us to do so.
#94
Not sure, haven't ordered any of the clutch parts yet. Anyone want to let me drive their 3.8 RS so I can decide?
As far as rev limiter - that will be determined during the dyno tuning stage.
As far as rev limiter - that will be determined during the dyno tuning stage.
#99
Rods are in.
New rod bearings.
Everything lubed.
Assembly time.
New oversized bushings to accommodate the 21mm wrist pins.
And the engine build is on its way…
New rod bearings.
Everything lubed.
Assembly time.
New oversized bushings to accommodate the 21mm wrist pins.
And the engine build is on its way…
Last edited by Serge944; 09-29-2011 at 08:53 PM.
#102
Amazing work Serge! Thank you for documenting/publishing the process. I thought I read somewhere that the 7GT3 uses a dual stage intake manifold different from ours? How will you address this?
#103
I'm loving this build thread, please keep the updates coming.
I have a couple of questions if that's ok & I apologize if this one has been answered already, why the change of rods if you are just doing a big bore kit?
Why did you go with a big bore kit over say a stoker crank & rod change with standard pistons or a combination crank & pistons kit?
Also where can I purchase this 4.0L big bore kit from, I read earlier in the thread that you mentioned Wrightwood racing but can't seem to find their details.
Cheers
I have a couple of questions if that's ok & I apologize if this one has been answered already, why the change of rods if you are just doing a big bore kit?
Why did you go with a big bore kit over say a stoker crank & rod change with standard pistons or a combination crank & pistons kit?
Also where can I purchase this 4.0L big bore kit from, I read earlier in the thread that you mentioned Wrightwood racing but can't seem to find their details.
Cheers
#104
Case cleaned and ready to go. Main and intermediate shaft bearings go in, followed by the crankshaft assembly.
Crank is in. Porsche coat hanger special tool supports the new timing chains. Oil pump is also in.
Tensioning the oil pump nuts.
Time to glue the case.
Cleanliness is the key to getting a perfect seal.
Spread it with a brush.
Other case half is on.
Special tools are required to properly seat the through-bolt seals.
The through bolts are tensioned.
Then the nuts around the case perimeter.
The case is now put together. Next step… pistons.
Crank is in. Porsche coat hanger special tool supports the new timing chains. Oil pump is also in.
Tensioning the oil pump nuts.
Time to glue the case.
Cleanliness is the key to getting a perfect seal.
Spread it with a brush.
Other case half is on.
Special tools are required to properly seat the through-bolt seals.
The through bolts are tensioned.
Then the nuts around the case perimeter.
The case is now put together. Next step… pistons.
Last edited by Serge944; 09-29-2011 at 08:58 PM.