lucroberts

Given the "Buyers Market" out there hitting our P-Cars, I'm considering upgrading to a GT3 04 for track use. I currently track my 83 SC which is obviously more affordable to maintain (tires, rotors, pads, oil, filters) on a 200 HP car.

I'm seeking some good advice from GT3 Owners, as to what can be the main flaws I should look at before buying one and what are the main expenses you guys have to maintain a GT3 for DE on track (not racing). I know PCCB are expensive but I suppose these rotors are built to last a long time. Any particular cautions or pros/cons ?

many thanks,
Luciano

Leigh2

The first generation PCCB rotors that are on the 6GT3 are a problem and most replace them with iron rotors for use on the track. If you search this forum you'll find a day's reading on brakes and they are probably the second highest cost item, behind tires. The GT3 will be blistering fast compared to the SC so focus on safety first. You will find the car to be quite reliable and purpose built for the track.Down the road there will be some limited slip and transmission issues to deal with. If you can try to find a car already set up as it will save you quite a bit of time and money. I'd recommend a minimum of:
Aftermarket front rotors (PFC, ALcon, Brembo etc.)
Track brake pads (PFC, Pagid etc)
Rear Toe Links
Roll bar
Seats and Harnesses
Extra set of wheels
Track alignment (VERY important!)

You'll find huge discussions on each of these items and more on this forum.
Good luck with the search and welcome to the board!

va122

Let me start by saying this is the best track car i have ever had, including my pure racecars. That being said, you are buying a very fast street car not a cup car. So there is rubber in the suspension that will deflect and screw with your alignment and head, likewise, the car is over damped and undersprung so you will eventually replace these parts. The brakes are awesome, but don't expect, as you said, them to last a long time ceramic or otherwise.

Expect to pay about 1000 per track day including consumables. Tires pads rotors alignments etc. This is a conservative estimate depending on tires. it actually cost me less to race my M3.

If you leave the car stock:
Expect to get an alignment before/after every track day (or every few) until you change the rear toe links. the cars are a handfull without a proper alignment and it is your *** so don't skimp here
expect your diff to fail within 1-2 years of tracking depending on how fast you are. Guaranteed. And a new one is now 2500 (thank you porsche) and a LOT of labour. The stock front rotors lasted me 3 track days. Maybe 4 with the expensive cup brake ducts. The stock shocks failed slightly before the diff.

I don't mean to discourage you, quite the opposite, it's a great car, relaiable engine, stiff chassis, but it is a street car, and there are mandatory track upgrades better to get them over with from the get-go.

va122

Oh and since you're in Canada. RAIN TIRES on separate wheels.

LVDell

The only flaw these cars have is the addiction they create for wanting to track more and more and more and more and.......

Other than that, they are virtually bulletproof is maintained religiously.

Leigh2

Canadian equipment requirements include:
Set of wheels with dry track tires
Set of wheels with wet track tires
Set of wheels with street tires
Set of wheels with snow tires (snowed at two schools last spring!)
Addition of seat heaters to the GT3 seats
Insulated helmet liner
Tire warmers
Antifreeze good for -45C
We like to leave the rubber in the suspension otherwise the shivering throws you off line :>)

171mph

Some things are better left unsaid like

"Honey I was drunk she meant nothing"
"Yes as a matter of fact those jeans do make you look fat"

and:

va122

-1 for my honesty. if someone told me i would have to put as much $ into the "all conquering track car" I wouldn't have believed them either.

For the sake of our new friend, don't let me scare you off. I dove off the deep end and have a cup car with a licence plate at this point and threats of divorce. Unless you're trying to take on a GT2 like i am in my class you shouldn't worry.

996FLT6

Make sure Lsd is working properly- car's rear end is unstable late braking and difficult to get power out/rotate out of turns. Hopefully the car u get has seats/rollcage/harness and rear toe links. Get a good alignment, track durable pads/ front rotors plus brake fluid. That's the minimum to get it track ready. Regards. Mike

Jetmech

The best advice....learn how to drive one before the modifications. going from your 200 HP car, you will spin this car your first time out...you don't need the mods....once you learn to drive her, your driving will tell you want you want...such as suspension, tires, etc. The car has more to offer than most people can drive. it will reward you, but again, learn to drive her slowly, and don't ever get on the gas too early... The market is great....if you feel your a mod type person....wait for one that has it all done..you will be saving money on parts and installation. pay for a good PPI from someplace you trust. There are some hack jobs out there, so be cautious...verify everything!

hope to see you out on the track some day!

996FLT6

I don't think safety equipment is construed as a mod- it's essential. U can get away from rear tow links and rely on stock pads but I think that's a good measure of safety too if u can upgrade that too. Just my 2 cents. Mike ps- if u plan to get a hans device( maybe u have one already) go for the 2/3 inch shoulder belts. Full 3 inch will overlap the inside of hans device.

lucroberts

Thank you Guys for the prompt responses and BTW I appreciate va12's honesty on the "track budgeting". That is "ïf you want to play you need to pay". Bottomline: I can see Ceramic Brakes are not a must on a Track GT3. However, Track alignments and rear toe links are key. LSD will fail at some point in time. What about the engine itself? Really durable ? Most of the GT3's I'm searching to buy have had some type of engine job, like replacing the lifters or a crack found on the engine case resulting in 1bolt being welded back into place. These are cars with 33K to 45K miles. is it normal ?
I'm aware I will have to play safety first, upgrading from my SC 200 to a 380+ HP 911. On the other hand I've tracked my SC for 15 events this year and feel the need to step up.

multi21

You miss her don't you Dell. Go on it's okay to admit it, we're all friends here...

Gofishracing

Tell me more on limited slip and trans. I'm also new.

LVDell

Pete....in ways you can't imagine

But, I do like my RSA and I am doing what I would never have done in the GT3......RACE!