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Don't know how you managed to go from a suspected VarioCam solenoid/actuator problem to tearing the engine apart to replace cam chains.
The error code points to the VarioCam solenoid/actuator. Just working the solenoid using a Durametric only tells you at that time the solenoid is working.
When my Boxster manifested a bad solenoid/actuator I "fixed" this by turning off the engine and then upon restart just a few moments later the symptoms were gone and remained gone for a 30 mile drive back home. I'm pretty sure had I "tested" the solenoid with a Durametric it would have worked just fine.
If you believe the chains need to be replaced then you are faced with removing the engine from the car. The camshaft covers come off to get at the small chain that runs from the exhaust cam to the intake cam and upon/or against which the VarioCam actuator works to vary the intake cam timing.
To replace the cam chains that run from the IMS to the exhaust cam -- one at the front of the engine and one at the rear -- I'm not sure what is required to be disassembled and removed.
The same goes for the chain that runs from the crankshaft to the iMS.
While I don't think cases have to be split it is a major repair.
If you replace the chains you should consider replacing the chain guides/rails and the chain hydraulic tensioners too. If the chains are worn enough to justify replacement the sprockets have to be considered worn and in need of replacement too. From my motorcycle days one never just replaced a worn out chain wtihout also replacing the sprockets.
So this is how threads turn into 10 page epic novels... I never said anything about changing the IMS chain. The only thing I did mention early on was that if the cam timing chains (between intake and the exhaust cams) looked worn I might as well change them while I was there changing the pads. They are inexpensive and easy to access. It's really that simple... I never mentioned any of the other chains. But, if you'd like to write a few more paragraphs in reply, be my guest��
So this is how threads turn into 10 page epic novels... I never said anything about changing the IMS chain. The only thing I did mention early on was that if the cam timing chains (between intake and the exhaust cams) looked worn I might as well change them while I was there changing the pads. They are inexpensive and easy to access. It's really that simple... I never mentioned any of the other chains. But, if you'd like to write a few more paragraphs in reply, be my guest��
10 pages ain't nothing.
I did a quick review and I didn't see you say anything about the IMS chain. I did see "chains" and made the assumption this included all chains.
Have to say if the chains between the exhaust and intake cams are worn enough to replace -- which I doubt they are -- other chains should also come under suspicion. They all see the same amount of wear and tear.
But of course it is up to you and you can limit any chain replacement to just the actuator chains if you believe this justified.
I did a quick review and I didn't see you say anything about the IMS chain. I did see "chains" and made the assumption this included all chains.
Have to say if the chains between the exhaust and intake cams are worn enough to replace -- which I doubt they are -- other chains should also come under suspicion. They all see the same amount of wear and tear.
But of course it is up to you and you can limit any chain replacement to just the actuator chains if you believe this justified.
There. I limited myself to a few more paragraphs.
don't worry this thread has a few more pages in it.
As you can see I've removed the rear bumper, exhaust shields, throttle body, power steering reservoir and the AC compressor (that rear bolt is a b*tch - I can see it's going to be fun getting it back in). The third photo is just showing the acorns found on top of the passenger side head... I haven't found any chewed wires yet. This is just from my car sitting out in the driveway through the summer and fall...
I'm lucky enough that I have a friend with a lift in his garage when it comes time to do mine.
^Yes^ AC lines stay hooked up, so no need to evacuate or re-fill AC system. The trade-off is the difficulty of removal/installation of the AC compressor. Well worth the effort in my mind.
So, just a quick update: I still haven't quite gotten the engine out, but I'm getting very close now... I don't know if I mentioned it before, but it's a C4 so I need to remove the drive shaft (cardan shaft) that drives the front wheels. The rear facing (toward the engine) 7.5mm hex bolts were a bit of a wild card, so it took me close to an hour to break the three of them loose. The good news is that I got all of them out without stripping anything. As it turned out, I didn't have a 7.5mm Allen wrench, but a 5/16" worked perfectly! I'm hoping to drop the Motor/Tranny on Thursday evening... we'll see
I started dropping the Engine and transmission last night. The last connections I've got left to remove are the power steering lines. Once they're removed I should be able to drop everything down a ways and unbolt the transmission from the engine... a few more photo's
cross member and coolant lines disconnected. Hydraulic table under engine
ready to go
starting to drop
everything disconnected except power steering lines
No! The Harbor Freight hydraulic table is clearly visible in photo's 1 and 3. The engine is sitting on the table, the tranny is on the tranny jack... I should get them down and out from under the car tonight - just going super slow so as not to break anything while making silly mistakes...
I too got around to trouble shooting my CEL & P1325 code which is opposite of your solenoid. Found out via the ohms test read out on the Bank 2 Solenoid that low readings were no where near what the good working one off Bank 1 read. So got I've got parts associated on order and awaiting delivery then I too will jack the car up, drop the motor and perform surgery soon.
04-12-2017 | 12:43 PM
don't worry this thread has a few more pages in it. 
