Schnell Gelb

The Deviation Spec limit is often mentioned - 6 degrees @the crank(=3 @the cam) . What we don't know (?) is what Deviation-degrees means there is mortal danger of pad disintegration.
The other unknown w/o dismantling is how much of the Deviation is pad wear vs wear/leakage in the Actuator.
BTW re: "I didn't get to pull the solenoid due to being pressed for time - obviously the two bolts on the side of the engine are easy to reach, but the plug not so much - it's a little burried so I'll need a little more time to get to it"
To remove the Variocam Solenoid, the Camshaft Cover must be removed. The 2 Allen-head screws you are seeing only retain the Solenoid seal. Be very careful removing the Solenoid from the Actuator (2 tiny torx screws)with the engine in the car. There is a little shuttle valve that pops out under spring pressure when you lift off the Solenoid. It is easy to loose the valve or the spring or the screws.
Note later versions of this engine were modified to allow removal of the solenoid w/o removing the cam cover.
Based on my tests(not an expert) I'd suggest that if the Solenoid passes the 13 ohm and 9v click test - look elsewhere for problems.

dporto

SG - I think I've determined that the solenoid is indeed working. At this point, it looks like at the very least I'll be dropping the engine and replacing the actuator pads (I have found the brown plastic debris - not a lot, but a few small pieces, in my oil filter when doing oil changes so I've always known there was some wear there)... The question then becomes, what else? Do the cam chains themselves stretch? I wouldn't mind changing them as they're relatively cheap. The actuators themselves are a different story, so if they're operating properly I'll leave them alone

Schnell Gelb

I agree on just taking a chance on the Variocam Actuators. If the solenoids check out electrically ,they are O.K. to reuse. If the engine oil is dirty or you don't have a full flow filter upgrade, it would be easy(with the engine apart for pad+paddle replacement) to remove and flush the actuator with very thin oil .It would be a shame if some of that pad debris clogged the Actuator.
W/o a full flow filter ,that pad debris could be anywhere ! Like the lifters -ugh.Sorry.

Ahsai

The cam to cam timing chains for sure. May be a good idea to check with LN Engineering or rndeuroparts to see if they have the master linked timing chains for your 3.4 engine too. Those types of chains allow you to change them out w/o splitting the case. Not sure how tricky to replace them though as you would need to cut the old chains. Also a good time to replace the 3 chain tensioners.

Imo000

How did you do this?

dporto

Imo000 - By activating with the durametric - clearly audible and noticeable via idle speed. I haven't checked at the plug because it's quite a bit more difficult to get to and I was pressed for time. I suppose if it makes sense I could check it further once I drop the engine.

SG - I do have the spin on adapter with the full flow filter (Napa Gold 1042). Once I have the engine out, I have a feeling it's going to be somewhat of a slippery slope, but I'll fix anything that clearly needs fixing, as I don't want to have to pull it out again next year - maybe two years

Ahsai - ^^^ yeah that's what I'm thinking...

Paul Waterloo - Are you getting fault codes/CEL's with those deviations? I thought -6 deg. was the limit...

Schnell Gelb

"Are you getting fault codes/CEL's with those deviations? I thought -6 deg. was the limit..."
Mine was 14.9. A world record. Why/how? That is the limit of the maximum travel of the Variocam mechanism. But all my NEW pads and paddles were zero miles !
Which is why I asked about the Deviation angle that translates to pad wear being close to disintegration. 6 crk. degrees is the spec. but I have never seen a warning relating this to the risk of pad disintegration. I am laboring this point because the cause of my problem was harmless stupidity(mine) and the consequences just inconvenience and modest cost. Disintegrating timing chain pads could be a different story because of the pad debris ,from chunks to dust to aluminum shavings entering the maze of oilways.

Porschetech3

A little trick I use to convert my cartridge type oil filter to full flow (no by-pass) is to simply pop the by-pass assembly out of the bottom of the plastic can, and remove spring and valve and flip them to the other side, thus eliminating the by-pass, then snap it back in. I had some pictures on my phone of this little trick I think I have moved them to a thumb drive , If I can find them I'll post them.

I also use the K&N PS-7011 oil filter made of cellulose/synthetic fibers they claim it flows more oil AND filters better, but I called to get the micron spec and the gph spec and could not get it. I called K&N and also Champion Laboritories (who make K&N , FRAM, STP, Purolater, and about 25 other brands) they would not/ could not give me the specs either. Given the cellulose/synthetic combo, it should be the best of both worlds and I have had no issues with it.

Another oil system trick I use is to epoxy some magnets around the outside of the Plastic oil filter housing mid way up. I like magnetic filters, they catch the ferrous slivers and dust. Its easy to see if it has caught anything and easy to clean, no mess, as is the cartridge type filter.

dporto

^neat trick^! Thanks for sharing...

SG - do you lie awake at night thinking up these CEF scenarios or what? I realize these things are whithin the realm of possibilities, but geezzz - I'm really hoping I'm not down to the aluminum... 😉

Paul Waterloo

I am not getting any check engine lights with my cam deviations. I thought the factory limit was 6 degrees and the check engine light doesn't come on until 12 degrees? Or maybe it was 9 degrees?

I read these posts and I start thinking about what I would do....and I have LN Engineering and their shop about an hour from me. Do I want to do all of this work myself, or just suck it up and have somebody like them do it, get it right the first time, and install the IMS solution? That would reset the engine for a long time to come.

I still owe $3K on my car....so it will be paid off in the upcoming months and then I could start a fund for all of this.

dporto

I've decided to stop driving my car, drop the engine and replace the cam chain pads. While I'm in there I'll check/clean the actuators (and hope they're working properly as they're pretty expensive to replace). I guess there's the possibility that the cam chains are also worn, so perhaps replace them as well. If the other chain tensioners/pads are accessible and worn, I'll do them as well. The IMS bearing was replaced with a LN unitaround 20,000 mi. ago so thats not an issue at this point.

dporto

Update: I'm just about ready to start taking stuff apart, as I've got the car on jack stands and I've got about 25.25 " from floor to bottom of engine (oil sump plate)... Is this enough? I think I've read 24" but I don't know where those measurements were taken to/from. A few more:
1) Better/Easier to remove Engine/Tranny as one unit? Or separate first? I'm thinking drop first then separate, but I'm open to suggestions...
2) Any recommendations on the chains themselves? I don't need anything super high performance, but if there is an updated/upgraded part within a reasonable cost range I would go with that.
3) ^Same^ for the chain-tensioner pads.

Porschetech3

[QUOTE=dporto;14095892]^neat trick^! Thanks for sharing...


Your welcome !!

I don't mind sharing these little tricks I can't take with me, and can't sell, so mite as well share !!

AWDGuy

25.25 should be enough IIRC.

Def easier to remove trans and engine as 1 unit

For chains - I went with the ones from IWIS that have a master link. This was done based off Jake's recommendation. I believe he developed or helped develop them.

I used OE chain tensioner pads and the LNE IMS paddle and pad for the IMS chain

Schnell Gelb

For a 996 drop as engine+transaxle ideally using a hydraulic cart(Harbor Freight?)
For 986 different story perhaps.
Chains - Search for what Jake has said. The usual brand is IWIS. Difficult to find a version with Master Links if that is what you mean. The Cam to cam chain is the same story -IWIS. Unlikely you will get the version with the 2 silver links 7 apart.
Pads - you mean the pads on the Variocam Actuator I presume. I don't think there is any choice- the light brown ones are the only I have seen. Just get them the right way up !