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Are these methods available as a stand-alone offering for field retrofit? I have a full flow filter, a magnetic drain plug, and have put in a chip detector, but more is better to minimize damage from the oil circuit contamination these engines are notorious for. (gah - dangled the participle)
No, they can only be employed in a Flat 6 Innovations engine, even then they are optional.
Are these methods available as a stand-alone offering for field retrofit? I have a full flow filter, a magnetic drain plug, and have put in a chip detector, but more is better to minimize damage from the oil circuit contamination these engines are notorious for. (gah - dangled the participle)
To keep the ferrous metals from getting into the scavenge pumps on my personal M/96 engines ( I have 3 of them) I use a .750 round magnet placed in the near proximity of the scavenge pump inlet of the cylinder head. I have recently retired from a Porsche dealership after 40 years and this was only done on my personal engines, not on engines under factory warranty at the dealership. The dealership I worked for had a strict policy to adhere to Porsche approved repairs for liability reasons, and no aftermarket parts or procedures were used . The only way aftermarket parts or methods were used was if the customer bought their own parts and asked for the repair, we could not encourage it. The Porsche dealer I worked for was also one of the hundreds of dealers owned by Billionaire Automotive mogul Bruton Smith. With all the racing heritage and history of Bruton Smith with him owning 8 Nascar Tracks ect. you would think they would not be so corporate minded, but that's not the case. But I have a lot of racing heritage too, so on my own car I do as I please.
A heavier ..viscosity oil can make a lifter issue worse, if that's what the problem is. Why? At start up the oil doesn't want to travel into the valve train components.
If I thought I had a bad lifter I'd add some Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase and see how it responded.
The noise coming and going doesn't rule out a cylinder, especially if temperature plays into things.
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Last edited by dallison28; 10-31-2016 at 06:44 PM.
Has anyone had any experience with 9XX parts rebuild? This seems like a "good deal" at $7500 with 12month/12000miles warranty plus free install/shipping for a rebuilt long block? Core charge is $6k, but even so it may be worth it?
I used UFO motorsports for the rebuild - he and 9xx used to be partners. I put 30K on my rebuild and never had a problem. I did lots of research and was more than happy. I used an LN bearing for an extra charge. They use a generic bearing and claim never to have a failure but there was one guy here who had an IMS failure on a UFO rebuilt engine.
Now for the process - which I have been through in depth with multiple people here. I had 0 engine problems - just had a failed IMS that put metal in the engine but I did not have nay ticking or weird noises and I just needed the engine cleaned more than anything. But most people here consider what they do is a refresh. The use most of the old parts. No new cylinders, pistons, or rods, etc. They can do the upgrades and have lots of experience but then you start to get in the price range of an RND engine.
To summarize, yes, good shop and good reviews, but the $7500 is not a true rebuild. And they only pay shipping one way. So factor in $1000 for shipping and $600 for a bearing and you are up to $9000 minimum - provided everything else checks out.
Thanks for that dgjks6, good to know. I think I will stick to my plans and use a local guy to rebuild. The $1000 plus for me to ship and "repair" as I have the dreaded "tick" would likely push this to around same number.
-Check for exhaust leaks
-Check for loose spark plugs
-Listen closely to the engine with an electronic ear
Whatever you do, don't assume the issue is lifters, and replace them. You must quantify exactly where the noise is rooted before throwing a variable at things.
If you have a ticking noise, then you must find the source of this conclusively. That takes more than a bore scope and a scan tool.
This is good advice. I had a 2.7 in my Boxster which with a nasty ticking. I swapped in a 3.4 from a Carrera. Sold the car and was left with the motor. Last year I bought a Boxster roller with a bad IMS and put the 2.7 in it. It's quiet as a mouse now and I have app 2K miles on it since the swap. What I thought was a ticking lifter definitely was something else as Jake suggests.
A heavier viscosity oil can make a lifter issue worse, if that's what the problem is. Why? At start up the oil doesn't want to travel into the valve train components.
If I thought I had a bad lifter I'd add some Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase and see how it responded.
The noise coming and going doesn't rule out a cylinder, especially if temperature plays into things.
i put a ~2 ounces of marvel mystery oil into my 68000 mile 3.4 that had a cold start up tick for a few seconds. It took care of that.
I presume it was a sticky lifter as if i drove the car hard the next time i started it up it would be quiet (fully cold motor days later) but if i took it easy it would make some noise (same cold motor condition)
as a note i inspect my filter for particles and have oil analysis done every time.
Last edited by captain pabst; 11-20-2016 at 12:54 PM.
It all depends what caused the "Ticking".
There are many potential causes of ticking, few of which can be solved by additives but well done in this case ! For example the early stages of bearing failure or loose spark plug(s).
The vital part is to diagnose the fault accurately. Search "Engine Ear", not mechanics stethoscope.
If a 'gummy' lifter is 'fixed' with an additive, it hints at excessive oil change intervals or filtration failures.There are 24 lifters ,so 1 gets fixed but what is happening in the other 23 ? The oilway in the tappet inside the lifter assy. is extremely small diameter. Dissolving the blockage with an additive and flushing out all the 'whatever' inside the tappet is quite a trick !It is quite tedious even on the bench with a lens. Once the tappet gets jammed in the Lifter , the Lifter is usully beyond any repair.There are upgrades to the older troublesome ones.See INA for details in Search.
Those may be subjects worthy of a new thread because the long term consequences may be expensive.
Unfortunately a filter full of metal suggests mine is something baaaaadddddddddd.
Hi there - did you ever come up with the actual cause of the ticking? I ask because I was looking at purchasing a car that had something very similar. I didn't and bought another car instead.
I read through this entire thread - certainly a wealth of good information, lots of real experts here - but I am still interested if you ever found the fix and what you did spend overall on the solution/fix.
I am seriously thinking about buying the LN Engineering filter adapter and filter, and always cutting my filters open to stay on top of any issues...
Murphyslaw, in answer to your question, not yet, but the journey towards bankruptcy has officially started.
Engine is officially out of the car.
I will update as the teardown progresses. I will also need to start thinking about buying parts once damage is assessed but will be looking at clutch, AOS, flywheel and probably IMS on top of whatever is broken (assuming its not one of those).
What are the group mind's thoughts on "best" prices right now??
10-27-2016, 01:12 PM
