AWDGuy

That's actually not bad at all price wise.

but I don't buy their statement about their blocks for 1 second.

Flat6 Innovations

You have to go into this with an expectation that you will not get the full core charge deposit back...

Also, remember that you must do something with your old heads, so they can be reused on this new short block. Your particular engine designation has a significant issue with failed intake valve seats, so not taking the time to address these now, would not be wise.

Too many people have bought a short block, not addressed anything with the heads, and had a problem.

Slakker

^^. Good info. I haven't read much about short block rebuilds. But I haven't looked very hard yet either.

Triple Black

That price actually sounds pretty good compared to what I was quoted about 2 years ago when I lost the engine in my car. The dealer here quoted me about $11.5K for the short block with core exchange. The killer - they estimated about $15K to cover work to the heads, other parts needed, and labour for the exchange.

Montychristo128

Thanks Team. Still exploring options. Good to know about head work Jake, may change those plans. Triple Black how did you resolve yours?

DrMEMS

Jake, what about oil appearing only on the spark plugs, only on threads near the crush ring (away from the tip)? Does that point to the same problem of lost seal rings?

Schnell Gelb

check this - common problem:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/results.php

DrMEMS

Can you give more of a hint on that one? The link for me says "Sorry, nothing was found or your query was too short."

Schnell Gelb

Sorry for their evaporating link.
Their parts diagrams are so useful.
Here are the part numbers.If you google them ,hopefully you'll find them elsewhere-Pelican or ECS:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...105-325-52-M36
Rubber O-ring 99970721540
and
German Spark Plug Tube 99610532552
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...7&KeepHeader=Y

Montychristo128

Dropped pan today (finally) and was expecting carnage in there. Nothing big, no plastic, no metal, nothing.

All the shops I have approached pretty much tell me its toast, rebuild or new engine (this is sight unseen). So I have found a local guy to rebuild, which is my current plan. Any thoughts?

I will start it up in the morning once new gasket is dry enough to allow me to fill with oil. See if there are any changes with new oil in it.

DrMEMS

I had the same thing happen to me: metal in the oil, but a nice clean sump plate. Based on advice from two mechanics, I drove a few hundred more miles to see if the metal flakes went away. They didn't.

My advice on having someone rebuild your 996 engine is to check on his experience and reputation. After less than a year, my $14K rebuilt engine has had problems that cost me $3K+, and I'm still having trouble. Get every reliability upgrade that you can pay for, including the latest Porsche brand valve lifters (996.105.255.25), maybe LNE cylinders, and especially the LNE IMS Solution, or at least a roller bearing (my LNE ceramic IMS ball bearing race failed, so you can guess my opinion on that). There has been recent talk of using a 997's intermediate shaft in the 996 engine. The newer shafts are supposed to have a tighter runout tolerance.

Schnell Gelb

Just make sure you do some accurate budgets and get clear estimates before you start. A roller with an engine in pieces is worth even less than a roller that is unmolested.
Check on EBay for used engine prices - check "Completed Listings" not asking prices. That will give you a bench mark.
Just the consumable parts + labor for a refresh is expensive.
Good Luck !

Montychristo128

Thanks Gents. My fear with a used engine is buying the same problem again. Everything I see on ebay is Texas, LA or Florida, all way too far off/complicated to go and check out.

The guy I found has focused on air cooled cars, but after a long chat today seems to know right people, say the right things and is well liked locally on the air cooled forums, buying in Canada saves me freight, currency exchange and duties that could all go on "sorting out" my engine so I actually know what was done to it.

Regards "budget" I have discussed what I believe to be price range, but until its opened up, there are a whole heap of unknowns.

DrMems, that really sucks, $14k on rebuild with problems after that is a nightmare.

I am the Walrus

That's really good advice re eBay
I wanted to buy a 997 Porsche in 2010, didn't know a fair price, checked eBay's completed auctions prices, saw one that was perfect and a great price. Emailed the dealer and said if you find another one like this illl buy it,he replied deal fell through due to financing issues.
I bought it immediately, ran great for 6 years, only had to replace starter at 80km and a sports exhaust solenoid issue a couple years earlier.
Traded it in march this year

Schnell Gelb

Wow what a disaster ! My story is similar. My hope is that after so much cost and research(mainly on RL)I have finally fixed it. Sadly ,only accumulated miles on my diy rebuild will tell.
Learning(?) from this sad saga, I see why some (smarter than me?) people sell as a Roller and get a car with the 9a1 engine. Not a perfect alternative but better than an M96 with unresolvable issues. It is worth noting that we are still learning about the congenital deformities of the M96 - the out-of-round IMS, misaligned machining and substitution of the 997 IMS are relatively new ideas -on an engine that is 20 years old !!
In addition to the cost, this has been a very humbling experience for someone with my alleged experience ,facilities,equipment and knowledge. In the M96 world many who might claim such strengths on other cars are quickly disavowed .In M96 terms I shall always be a noob ! Hence the interest in a 9a1 :-).