afx

Was wondering if anyone has had any success in tracking oil temp in a 996 on a regular basis. I have been looking around for details on how I would accomplish this, but have not found anything that sounds like a permanent solution.

I have started tracking my car, and with living in Texas, heat has become a worry of mine. Want to at least track the oil temp to help keep my car healthy.

I have heard of two options:

- Connect using durametric on a laptop. The value can be pulled, but having a laptop connected and open at all times seems to be a hassle. Possibly mounting a tablet running windows could make this a bit more feasible?

- I have heard the oil level gauge also measures temperature. I have not been able to find which wires I would want to tap into, and whether I would want to tap in by the sensor, or off the computer. Would rather not cut into wires if possible (extension?), but am open to the best option.

Anyone come up with a successful solution?

Slakker

The oil temp is a calculated value not a true value. You will need to add an oil temp sensor into the sump to get a true reading. You are spot on about its importance in our part of the world though.

Ahsai

Actually our oil temp is measured directly by the oil level/temp combined sensor. The sensor is very responsive because it measures the hot oil that comes from the main bearings when it drains back to the sump.

You can tap the sensor signal but it will be quite involved
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...mp-sensor.html

Flat6 Innovations

Either read from the CAN, or install a stand alone gauge and sensor... The OBDII value is calculated and cannot be trusted.

afx

Jake,

Do you happen to know of any way to read the can bus without a program running on a laptop?

Ahsai,

Has that worked out for you long term? You mentioned using durametric to get the signal and output it, does that mean you have to have a computer connected at all times for the gauge to work, or did you use it just to tune the signal for the arduino to pull the data directly from the DME?

Ahsai

It works well but I never installed it permanantly. Once the concept was proven, I moved on.

It's the latter. Durametric uses that sensor so I measured the sensor output voltage and the corresponding Durametric reading. Then I implemented that volt to temp mapping in auduino. The auduino is also used to power the VDO gauge to show the correct reading.

It's a stand alone unit. The circuit and the vdo gauge power up the instant you turn the key. No computer is required. The best part is it's so responsive when you mesh the gas to go up a slope, you can see the engine oil temp goes up instantly while the coolant gauge doesn't move at all.

afx

Appreciate the response! Just finished reading through your thread on how you implemented the solution. I really like how you were able to tap into the DME without any permanent modifications/splicing of wires.

Hopefully someone else has been able to implement a simple solution to tracking the temp, but your way sounds like it could be fun to play with.

Ahsai

Thanks! You can always wire a stand alone oil temp sensor in the sump (somehow) but where's the fun in that?

Jon Moeller

afx,
I'm in Austin, as well, and ended up putting a Mantis sump and a 3rd radiator on my car. I don't have a means of tracking oil temp, but my pressure is good after a session at COTA, and my coolant temps are pretty solid as well.

-Jon

afx

Did you notice any improvements in oil/coolant temps from before and after the 3rd radiator and sump? I have been thinking about doing the 3rd radiator was well.

COTA sounds like it would be a ton of fun, I plan to get out there someday!

I have been going to Harris Hill Road in San Marcos and noticed when I went out last weekend my coolant temp started going above the normal level (usually right between the 8 & 0 in 180, but was a little past the 0). Had not really noticed this before at the track, but this was also 100 degrees out at the time. Also noticed the oil pressure at idle a good bit lower after the runs.

I might just go ahead and do sump & radiator just in case, but was hoping to get some baseline numbers in with tracking oil temp first.

Jon Moeller

I took a pretty systematic approach to solving my issues. I started out with the x51 oil pan, but saw the oil pressure drop after 20 minute sessions (both on track and at idle). This was with 5w40 in "cooler" weather. I bumped up to 5w50 oil, which eliminated the pressure drop due to heat, but I was still seeing a slight rise in coolant temps (similar to yours as it was past the '0'). I then added the center radiator, which eliminated coolant temp rise.

Finally, I was seeing pretty significant pressure drops through turns 16-18 at COTA (2 bar or slightly lower at 4k rpm). After installing the Mantis sump, there are no drops in pressure. It's not as accurate as getting actual temps, but given that I don't see a significant drop in pressure at idle, or at speed, I'm pretty confident that things are running smoothly.

For reference, I'm running a GT3 suspension and street tires. I have some more time at COTA, but I think I'm relatively fast out there. I hope to get down to Harris Hill more frequently, this fall.

Ernie J

Hi all, oil temps are too high. On the mantis race cayman we use 2 oil coolers each mounted at the front of the car, each fed by a 3" hose. We use a tilton oil pump and tap to holes in the Mantis sump, and circulate oil to the coolers, 195 degrees oil temp in the sump, normally you have about 230'240 oil temps without additional coolers. I realize that on street cars this set up is over the top. I suggest that you can purchase a oil cooler with a fan attached, theres room for that in all porsches. lots room in the "tunnel" to mount the oil pump. Mount oil cooler besides the trans. Hope this helps. It can be done.

Flat6 Innovations

I e done this type of circulating system as well. The Tilton gear oil pump works well with our hand built oil cooler fitted to the factory 3rd radiator position.

What I prefer is my high volume main oil pump, coupled to this same cooler, as it cools the charge oil before its delivered to the bearings. With my dry sump system with remote reservoir we sometimes use two coolers, one to cool charge oil, and one to cool bypass oil before it returns to the reservoir.

All in all, the oil runs too hot in stock form- period.

afx

Nice to see that you were able to notice the individual parts make a difference in the issues you are seeing.

I have the parts for the 3rd radiator and am thinking about getting an X51 oil pan.

If you see a gray 996 convertible at HHR, stop by and say hi, would be nice to check out your car.

afx

For street cars adding an oil cooler, what would you suggest for plumbing it in?

I am guessing you are running a pretty deep sump to be able to tap in, which might be to much for a street car? I have seen a couple oil cooler deletes which allow adding an oil cooler which might be an easy route to take.