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The PO of my car used Motul but I'm thinking of switching to Castrol Edge (Ex-Syntec) as it's supposedly Porsche A40 approved and can be found at a decent price from time to time. What are thoughts on it?
Jake, if the car has gone no where in 6 months and had new oil in the CC, what about time degrades the oil?????
I am confused on that.
Also, Not looking for a recommendation on oil, but would appreciate your saying what you use in your fleet.
I have a tip, 2000, with 137k on it and just had the IMSB and a tensioner replaced. I had not put a lot of miles on the car in the last few years and though the car was always stored indoors, I was changing the oil at about 1/2 the recommended miles cycle.
My choice of oil after 80k or so went to Delvac 15w40 as the car never gets driven in the winter......
I may have broken all your rules and I am ready to repent, if it is not too late. My indy just did the IMSB and reported the oil filter inspection to be clean........
Based on previous posts by Jake I believe he uses DT40 (Joe Gibbs 5W/40) exclusively.
Based on previous posts by Jake I believe he uses DT40 (Joe Gibbs 5W/40) exclusively.
I think that's a safe bet. Not sure how many hours Jake put into testing, collecting data, and developing DT40 for the M96 but I think it was a crazy amount.
I think that's a safe bet. Not sure how many hours Jake put into testing, collecting data, and developing DT40 for the M96 but I think it was a crazy amount.
Years. We originally did the work only for our engines, DT40 was to never be sold.... The recession is the ONLY thing that lead to it having to go to market.
Meet the latest (and hopefully greatest) chain pads from Porsche. It's white delrin like (but softer and more rubbery) material. Only on the non-tensioner side. The tensioner side still uses the old black plastic.
DIY engine builds are about to get much simpler to perform.
I assume this is from the upcoming guidance you've been hinting at. But...if it's simpler for a DIY, wouldn't that also carry over to shops that could then (theoretically!) charge less?
the labor to put together the engine wont change. so there's no savings in the labor to assemble the engine.
the only parts I reused inside my engine were:
-engine cases
-crankshaft
-piston rods
-bearing assembly case
everything else was bought new. This wasn't a refresh, it was a rebuild.
I did the rebuild myself so labor was free. the parts for the rebuild still costed me close to 15k CDN. that price includes the LNE work for the nickies and new pistons.
the labor to put together the engine wont change. so there's no savings in the labor to assemble the engine.
the only parts I reused inside my engine were:
-engine cases
-crankshaft
-piston rods
-bearing assembly case
everything else was bought new. This wasn't a refresh, it was a rebuild.
I did the rebuild myself so labor was free. the parts for the rebuild still costed me close to 15k CDN. that price includes the LNE work for the nickies and new pistons.
That is true for a full rebuild. But if you can DIY, how much would it cost to just replace the paddles, tensioners, chain guides, and whatever seals and bolts can't be reused?
If the engine hasn't failed and just has these wear surfaces damaged, then you can do a refresh instead of a full rebuild. You have to open the case, but do you even need to remove pistons?
That is true for a full rebuild. But if you can DIY, how much would it cost to just replace the paddles, tensioners, chain guides, and whatever seals and bolts can't be reused?
If the engine hasn't failed and just has these wear surfaces damaged, then you can do a refresh instead of a full rebuild. You have to open the case, but do you even need to remove pistons?
Unfortunately yes and that's the point. You need to remove the pistons so you can put them back into the bores during reassembly. You can probably skip disassembling the crank carrier.
My take is if you DIY, you can replace just the pads for maybe a couple of thousand dollars of parts (gaskets and bolts only and no new crank and con rod bearings). If you pay someone else to do it, the labor will be significant (~$4k?) and then you have to think about while you're in there items so you don't do it again anytime soon. The WYIT items will be a few thousand dollars without re-sleeving, which is ~$5k itself.
Meet the latest (and hopefully greatest) chain pads from Porsche. It's white delrin like (but softer and more rubbery) material. Only on the non-tensioner side. The tensioner side still uses the old black plastic.
That's exactly the design I was going for. Glad they finally took me up on it.
07-13-2016, 03:55 PM
