Bits & pieces lead to disassembly, Vareocam and on..
06-24-2016, 02:05 PM
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Ahsai, there was no metal flakes in the filter all. I don't have a magnetic drain plug, but I did find bits and pieces of brown chain tensioner plastic and even more black plastic pieces in the oil pan after dropping it (see initial thread picture). Which is why I am tearing the motor apart to inspect further and see if it is the IMS chain paddle or what else is worn and broken.
06-29-2016, 02:49 PM
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
Bike tire quick release skewer with a few spacers to pick up slack and 5mm .8 pitch reverse thread (left handed) die cutter an ebay special for $5. Worked perfectly as suggested by Noz1974 instead of having to search and purchase that specialized Porsche tool.
Compressing the VarioCam tensioners to have first hand look at the damage.
Big difference of 100K worn VarioCam tensioner Pads 99610525300 versus new replacement Porsche part. Worn grove is actually much deeper on first pad than what is portrayed in the picture.
06-29-2016, 05:44 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very cool thread, thanks for posting.
I'll probably do the same job this winter since I found lots of black plastic
bits in the oil filter and in the oil pan in a recently acquired '99 C2.
I've rechecked the oil filter about 500 miles after an oil change (included
about 13 autox runs), and found only three tiny pieces of plastic (no bigger
than 0.5mm). I plan to change the oil every 2K miles or 6 months and
dissect the oil filter from now on as precautionary measure.
I'll probably do the same job this winter since I found lots of black plastic
bits in the oil filter and in the oil pan in a recently acquired '99 C2.
I've rechecked the oil filter about 500 miles after an oil change (included
about 13 autox runs), and found only three tiny pieces of plastic (no bigger
than 0.5mm). I plan to change the oil every 2K miles or 6 months and
dissect the oil filter from now on as precautionary measure.
06-29-2016, 07:31 PM
#22
Device2 that's cool glad I could help, my original pads look the same it's as though the edges of the chains wear a groove , makes you wonder if the pads should have grooves built in for the chains to run in ??
I believe the replacement pads are a better less brittle material.
Another tip, when you are re installing the cams/ vario assembly back on the head have the tool still in but just taking off a bit of tension to allow the cams to sit nicely in their bearings otherwise the tensioner pulls the cams too close together and they won't sit while you bolt up the vario and fit cam hold down tool on the other end.
Might be worth doing the lifters while your in there??
I believe the replacement pads are a better less brittle material.
Another tip, when you are re installing the cams/ vario assembly back on the head have the tool still in but just taking off a bit of tension to allow the cams to sit nicely in their bearings otherwise the tensioner pulls the cams too close together and they won't sit while you bolt up the vario and fit cam hold down tool on the other end.
Might be worth doing the lifters while your in there??
06-30-2016, 09:54 AM
#23
06-30-2016, 11:17 AM
#24
Racer
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Montreal, QC, Canada
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lol, I do indeed all of my own work, but my sentece had some intentioned sarcasm in it.
It's all fun though (with a bit of stress - keeps you awake at night)
Btw, that bike tool is an awesome idea, I always used a pair of huge pliers and a metal wire to keep the VarioCam tensioner compressed. Once all it, clip the wire and remove
It's all fun though (with a bit of stress - keeps you awake at night)
Btw, that bike tool is an awesome idea, I always used a pair of huge pliers and a metal wire to keep the VarioCam tensioner compressed. Once all it, clip the wire and remove
06-30-2016, 01:11 PM
#25
Race Director
07-01-2016, 03:02 PM
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
The disassembly continues.
Removed the tensioners, the lifters and then the valve block assembly. As my search of the black plastic source goes on. I also noticed the long chain rails coming from the IMS shaft are slightly worn too. So looks like I will be replacing them too. Maybe this weekend I will have time to split the case to two and get a better visual of the black IMS chain rail in the front of the motor and the chain paddle. Which is my suspicion that the source of the black plastic is.
Noz1974, looks like I might be doing the lifters too you're right since I' am already here. Also since I will more than likely now be doing a small rebuild or refresh of the old motor
. Now I'm looking forward to it running a lot better with all worn stuff I'm finding and the things I'm replacing. Luckily no visual signs of cylinder head wall cracks
07-01-2016, 04:37 PM
#29
Drifting
Check the w/p,idler pulley and alternator bearings at the same time?
Dropping the pan and as others mentioned,replacing the exhaust manifold bolts
=There is an intelligent alternative to using the same fasteners
Use stainless steel studs instead. You will never fight seized/corroded/stripped threads again.Easy ,inexpensive job that I have detailed in the past.All hardware available on EBay.
07-02-2016, 03:11 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Boy if there ever was an ad for American small block V8s this thread is it. The 996 engine must have been old Doc Porsche's gift to the parts and service department. Does anyone else feel that the concept of finding bits of plastic in your oil pan is...wrong? I feel as if I'm reading about a Chinese motor, not a German one. How does this square with all the high mileage motors posted here?