Next Problem to solve , car won't Lock!!
#1
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Hi Everyone
As I get closer to finishing my car I'm finding problems I never knew I had!! up until now I've been disconnecting the battery when leaving the garage but tonight I thought I'd leave the battery on and properly lock the car.
Ok when I try to lock the car with the key button which is flashing so working nothing happens except the receiver on the dash is flashing red light rapidly.
If I try the key in drivers door to lock manually it only locks the drivers door and beeps the horn.
I think it thinks there is a door open or something, maybe faulty micro switch
My bonnet is stiff to close , you can't just drop it and it shuts you have to push it shut!!
Could it be bonnet or frunk as you call it lock/ micro, is it a common fault??
Thanks guys for your wisdom, again 👍
As I get closer to finishing my car I'm finding problems I never knew I had!! up until now I've been disconnecting the battery when leaving the garage but tonight I thought I'd leave the battery on and properly lock the car.
Ok when I try to lock the car with the key button which is flashing so working nothing happens except the receiver on the dash is flashing red light rapidly.
If I try the key in drivers door to lock manually it only locks the drivers door and beeps the horn.
I think it thinks there is a door open or something, maybe faulty micro switch
My bonnet is stiff to close , you can't just drop it and it shuts you have to push it shut!!
Could it be bonnet or frunk as you call it lock/ micro, is it a common fault??
Thanks guys for your wisdom, again 👍
#2
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It checks a number of switches when it locks, the frunk, the engine lid, the doors, (the one that usually gets me) the console lid and probably several more. If something is not closed that it expects to see closed, it beeps at you. Seems to me it even checks the windows but I may be imagining that.
Before checking the switches, put the windows up, close the frunk and engine lid, close the console lid and glovebox if you have one. Even close the fuel filler lid, basically close up everything like you were going to leave the car in the middle of the highest crime district you can think of and then try again.
Also the bonnet (frunk) is designed so that you need to push down to the left and right of the emblem or at the front corners to latch it properly.
Before checking the switches, put the windows up, close the frunk and engine lid, close the console lid and glovebox if you have one. Even close the fuel filler lid, basically close up everything like you were going to leave the car in the middle of the highest crime district you can think of and then try again.
Also the bonnet (frunk) is designed so that you need to push down to the left and right of the emblem or at the front corners to latch it properly.
Last edited by tharbin; 05-13-2016 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Added comment about bonnet
#3
Race Director
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A non-critical fault - like the center console bin being open or the radio being removed - results in a single beep, but the doors still lock and the alarm arms.
A critical fault - like the front trunk, engine cover, or one of the doors being ajar - prevents the alarm from arming.
The behavior of your front trunk, as tharbin pointed out - is correct. You don't slam the 996 hood closed, you lower it until the latch clicks once, and then you press down with your hands on either side of the hood crest until it latches completely. Pressing down on the corners is not correct - the latch is in the center and the stops are at the corners.
A critical fault - like the front trunk, engine cover, or one of the doors being ajar - prevents the alarm from arming.
The behavior of your front trunk, as tharbin pointed out - is correct. You don't slam the 996 hood closed, you lower it until the latch clicks once, and then you press down with your hands on either side of the hood crest until it latches completely. Pressing down on the corners is not correct - the latch is in the center and the stops are at the corners.
#5
Rennlist Member
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I know we all have a preferred way to close the hood...just don't press on the emblem to close. Manual says:
Closing luggage compartment lid and
engine compartment lid
I> Lower lid and let it fall into the lock. If necessary,
push the lid with the palm of your hand in
the area of the lock.
I> Check that the lid has correctly engaged in
the lock.
I was surprised with the "let if fall" language - had not remembered reading that before. Also, manual says push the lid with the palm of your hand in the area of the lock.
Closing luggage compartment lid and
engine compartment lid
I> Lower lid and let it fall into the lock. If necessary,
push the lid with the palm of your hand in
the area of the lock.
I> Check that the lid has correctly engaged in
the lock.
I was surprised with the "let if fall" language - had not remembered reading that before. Also, manual says push the lid with the palm of your hand in the area of the lock.
#6
Race Director
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Durametric will read the alarm fault codes - you will then have to google the fault code to see what it means. Unfortunately, the codes can be very vague - but at least you can determine if it's a problem with a door, a door lock, or the alarm system itself.
#7
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#8
Race Director
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One beep when locking is a non-critical fault. Most likely one of two things:
* The contact switch for the center console door is busted or disconnected
* The contact for the stereo was not addressed when a new head unit was installed.
* The contact switch for the center console door is busted or disconnected
* The contact for the stereo was not addressed when a new head unit was installed.
#9
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Ok I'll double check the inside stuff, I checked doors engine cover and frunk but not inside properly, didn't realise it was linked to alarm!!
Glad about the frunk!! It does feel weird though how it just won't drop and close , I don't just drop from fully open but my other cars you can drop from maybe a foot open and they shut nicely, wonder why it's like this ??
If all is closed what is the favourite failure , microswitch somewhere maybe, don't have durametric , need to get one!!
Glad about the frunk!! It does feel weird though how it just won't drop and close , I don't just drop from fully open but my other cars you can drop from maybe a foot open and they shut nicely, wonder why it's like this ??
If all is closed what is the favourite failure , microswitch somewhere maybe, don't have durametric , need to get one!!
#10
Race Director
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If the system still arms, it has to be one of the non-critical contacts. If it was a door or hood microswitch, the system would not arm.
#11
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It doesn't arm the receiver light on the dash just flashes red and nothing happens and when I manually put the key in the door and turn it only the drivers door locks with one beep, passenger door stays open??
#12
Former Vendor
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I'd say to also check that both inside door handles spring back 100% of the way.
If they wiggle a little bit they will make the car beep once since it thinks that the door is open.
If they wiggle a little bit they will make the car beep once since it thinks that the door is open.
#14
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When I try to lock with remote key press, nothing locks. When manually tried to lock , only driver side locks. But the remote key button can unlock the driver key. My dash central locking switch does not work, no lights in it
#15
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Is your central locking issue solved, I have almost same issue
When I try to lock with remote key press, nothing locks. When manually tried to lock , only driver side locks. But the remote key button can unlock the driver key. My dash central locking switch does not work, no lights in it
When I try to lock with remote key press, nothing locks. When manually tried to lock , only driver side locks. But the remote key button can unlock the driver key. My dash central locking switch does not work, no lights in it
If you are having a problem, why not start a new thread? Or do a search?