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Crank Pulley Noise - Redux (engine drop)

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Old 03-19-2012, 09:10 PM
  #31  
logray
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Keep up the good work, take your time, don't rush it!
Old 03-19-2012, 11:56 PM
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RPMulli
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Originally Posted by logray
Keep up the good work, take your time, don't rush it!
Will do, Hey do you think its okay to pull the cams off while the IMS flange and all three chain tensioners are removed? I was thinking it was okay as long as I'm careful.

Also, what is the best method for cleaning the crud off the walls of the intakes in the head (between the valves and fuel injectors)? Toothbrush? small wire brush? a cleaner?
Old 03-20-2012, 12:36 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by RPMulli
Will do, Hey do you think its okay to pull the cams off while the IMS flange and all three chain tensioners are removed? I was thinking it was okay as long as I'm careful.

Also, what is the best method for cleaning the crud off the walls of the intakes in the head (between the valves and fuel injectors)? Toothbrush? small wire brush? a cleaner?
Regarding question 1. Carefully READ the work shop manual. There are very specific steps regarding cam removal and you don't want to screw them up, otherwise you will damage parts. But in short, yes removing the paddle/ramp tensioners is part of the procedure, and you should be fine. When you are done with all of this of course you will want to triple check (and adjust accordingly) the timing before firing up the engine.

Question 2, best method is honestly to remove the heads and disassemble them. Then give them a proper wash during a valve job (bead blasting is debatable). If you stick tools and cleaners and stuff down in the intake ports and/or intake risers you risk getting crap in there and then debris in the cylinders which is a MAJOR "no no" !!!! Basically if you aren't going to rip the heads off, then leave it alone.
Old 03-20-2012, 09:02 AM
  #34  
RPMulli
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I am following the manual, it just doesn't mention if you can do it without the IMS flange installed or not. Otherwise I have to wait for the bearing to show up and install it prior to removing the cams which will hold me up.

Originally Posted by logray
Regarding question 1. Carefully READ the work shop manual. There are very specific steps regarding cam removal and you don't want to screw them up, otherwise you will damage parts. But in short, yes removing the paddle/ramp tensioners is part of the procedure, and you should be fine. When you are done with all of this of course you will want to triple check (and adjust accordingly) the timing before firing up the engine.

Question 2, best method is honestly to remove the heads and disassemble them. Then give them a proper wash during a valve job (bead blasting is debatable). If you stick tools and cleaners and stuff down in the intake ports and/or intake risers you risk getting crap in there and then debris in the cylinders which is a MAJOR "no no" !!!! Basically if you aren't going to rip the heads off, then leave it alone.
Old 03-20-2012, 10:18 AM
  #35  
speed rII
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IMS bearing and flange must be installed when setting the tdc, before removing the cam's.
Allso the chain tensioners must be in place when you set the tdc.
Note that you must turn the crank 360deg after finishing the first side.

Setting the timing is the 2:nd hardest part when rebuilding these engines... IMO

So read and understand the manual, if there is anything that you cant figure out, ask
Old 03-20-2012, 10:26 AM
  #36  
RPMulli
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I already set the engine to TDC prior to pulling off the IMS flange for inspection. The motor right now has the IMS flange removed, 1-3 tensioner removed and IMS tensioner removed.

Originally Posted by speed rII
IMS bearing and flange must be installed when setting the tdc, before removing the cam's.
Allso the chain tensioners must be in place when you set the tdc.
Note that you must turn the crank 360deg after finishing the first side.

Setting the timing is the 2:nd hardest part when rebuilding these engines... IMO

So read and understand the manual, if there is anything that you cant figure out, ask
Old 03-20-2012, 01:25 PM
  #37  
speed rII
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Ok, you can take one head apart before you get the bearing.

Take the roundplugs off from the cylheads and check cam positions.

From the hole above the scavengepump, you see the groove in intake cams.
When 1-3 cyl is in right position groove in the camshaft will face outward.
If the intake cam in bank 1-3 is in correct position, you can take it apart.
If not, take the bank 4-6 first.

Check the service manual on installing camshaft's, cams must be in the same positions when removed or installed.

Remember, you need to rotate the crank 360deg after the first head is done to get the next one on right position. So this can be done after you put bearing and tensioners back.
Old 03-20-2012, 01:30 PM
  #38  
speed rII
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Here you can see correct position for cyl.head 1-3

For the cyl 4-6 groove should point inwards.
Old 03-20-2012, 02:12 PM
  #39  
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Thanks! I already made sure that #1 is TDC so the 1-3 bank should be good. Of course I will verify by popping the plugs out. I think I may just stick the flange in and partially thread the bolts back in just in case. The last think I need is the chain jumping a tooth or something. I should have the cam holder tool this evening so I will be removing the 1-3 head cover tonight. Afterwards I will be inspecting the lifters for damage and pump some clean oil through them. I've read that it is as simple as submerging the lifter in oil and pressing the spring.
Old 03-20-2012, 02:33 PM
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Threads like these is why I LOVE rennlist!!

Great work and good luck!
Old 03-20-2012, 03:45 PM
  #41  
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Ryan -you probably won't like this post .The lifters are another achilles heel. There are two parts to them the cam follower and the lifter .Out of 24 I had 7 sticking .The problem in cleaning them is that the hole for the lifter is inside the cam follower .There may be a way to disassemble them but I couldn't figure it out .I cut one apart and the lifter hole is really ,really small .The point being that cleaning them is a 50/50 deal .I have read hot oil (can with oil on a hotplate) might work .
The point being if the budget allows new lifters are a good idea .I think Logray found a deal .
Dave
Old 03-20-2012, 04:07 PM
  #42  
speed rII
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I got new lifters from here link to Ebay.de

Shipping is for europe, but might ship to states allso?? Seller did respond with english...
You can allso use the part numbers that are on the ad, and find similar parts from states
Old 03-20-2012, 05:23 PM
  #43  
pterfloth
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Pelican Parts has them.
Old 03-20-2012, 06:39 PM
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dcdrechsel
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I get a lot of stuff from Partsgeek.com .Pretty good prices and overnight delivery to SE Pennsylvania .
Old 03-20-2012, 07:35 PM
  #45  
RPMulli
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I just removed the cams from the 1-3 bank. Fairly straight forward with a few pointers from Logray. Pics to come.


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