Crank Pulley Noise - Redux (engine drop)
03-15-2012, 08:01 PM
#1
Crank Pulley Noise - Redux (engine drop)
For those of you who have not followed the ten pages (https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ideo-help.html) trying to chase down this clanking noise from the crank pulley. I decided it was time to remove the engine and try to diagnose the problem with better access. I also have to replace the cam chain guides as well. I wanted to document every step for removing the engine but for those of you who get into it you just don't want to stop every 2 minutes to take pictures. Right now the engine is out and I am ready to figure this problem out!! 
Here are some pictures to go with.....
Here are some pictures to go with.....
03-15-2012, 08:13 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Nice work, would be nice to have some rims in those tires in case those jacks fail... but I doubt they will.
Did you support the other front corner with a jack when you dropped the front down, seems like the car might teeter over...
If you can get a jack under the front bumper in the center there's a spot in the center right behind the trunk cavity where two of the cross members come to a v, that's where I put a block of wood and my floor jack to raise and lower the front end.
Hope this turns out with a happy ending and is something simple.
Did you support the other front corner with a jack when you dropped the front down, seems like the car might teeter over...
If you can get a jack under the front bumper in the center there's a spot in the center right behind the trunk cavity where two of the cross members come to a v, that's where I put a block of wood and my floor jack to raise and lower the front end.
Hope this turns out with a happy ending and is something simple.
03-15-2012, 08:19 PM
#5
Nice work, would be nice to have some rims in those tires in case those jacks fail... but I doubt they will.
Did you support the other front corner with a jack when you dropped the front down, seems like the car might teeter over...
If you can get a jack under the front bumper in the center there's a spot in the center right behind the trunk cavity where two of the cross members come to a v, that's where I put a block of wood and my floor jack to raise and lower the front end.
Hope this turns out with a happy ending and is something simple.
Did you support the other front corner with a jack when you dropped the front down, seems like the car might teeter over...
If you can get a jack under the front bumper in the center there's a spot in the center right behind the trunk cavity where two of the cross members come to a v, that's where I put a block of wood and my floor jack to raise and lower the front end.
Hope this turns out with a happy ending and is something simple.
Haha, heck no.. the engine car was nearly on one jackstand at one point. I was living on the edge for a few minutes while the engine was dropping out of the car. I spent alot of time ensuring the jacks were level. I actually jacked one side in the front and the whole car lifted up. The engine wasn't entirely level but it was good enough to get her out. The entire process was easy except for the stinking coolant lines!!!
Those lines were so stuck on the metal tubing it was ridiculous. I think I have to replace them afterward. Now here comes the fun part....
Last edited by RPMulli; 03-15-2012 at 08:57 PM.
03-17-2012, 10:07 AM
#6
Update: So I began to pull apart the engine (mainly the intake, exhaust, fuel rails, etc.) So far everything looks normal. I will be sending my fuel injectors to witchhunter.com for cleaning and flow testing. Finally, I separated the engine and transmission. Throwout bearing appears to be worn but the clutch seems to have good life left on it. I still need to find the specs on the disc though. the DMF has some noise and the springs may be slightly worn out.
Onto the IMS area.... I pulled the two chain tensioners (IMS and 1-3) and pulled the flange for the IMS bearing. I did find that IMS tensioner piston was stuck inside its housing when I pulled it out. I think that is was binding and may be the culprit for my knocking noise.
Now for the bearing... I installed the bearing about 2 years ago when I got my car. There was some slight bearing noise prior to me removing the engine. Watch the video.... The bearing is binding..
Anyone have an explanation for this?? Is the tube supposed to be filled with oil.
Onto the IMS area.... I pulled the two chain tensioners (IMS and 1-3) and pulled the flange for the IMS bearing. I did find that IMS tensioner piston was stuck inside its housing when I pulled it out. I think that is was binding and may be the culprit for my knocking noise.
Now for the bearing... I installed the bearing about 2 years ago when I got my car. There was some slight bearing noise prior to me removing the engine. Watch the video.... The bearing is binding..
Anyone have an explanation for this?? Is the tube supposed to be filled with oil.
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03-17-2012, 03:04 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Certainly agree you should to talk to the expert on this one... worth the email or phone call to Charles.
About the only thing I can think of is perhaps the relieved tension on the chain due to the collapsed tensioner problem caused odd loads on the bearing.
Good thing you caught this now.
And if the chain was slapping around that might explain the noise through the crank.
Speculating.
About the only thing I can think of is perhaps the relieved tension on the chain due to the collapsed tensioner problem caused odd loads on the bearing.
Good thing you caught this now.
And if the chain was slapping around that might explain the noise through the crank.
Speculating.
03-17-2012, 03:15 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Also unless you tear down and remove the tube to send to LNE, in order to extract that bearing you'll have to tap your bearing removal tool with the proper thread size (to match the LNE center stud since it's different from stock).
03-17-2012, 04:09 PM
#11
03-17-2012, 04:17 PM
#12
Tear down is not an option at this point. I cannot leave my car at its location long term. I will call LNE on Monday and discuss my situation. Meanwhile I will be heading over to my car and continue my inspection.
03-17-2012, 04:55 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
I wouldn't trust that bearing. Any bearing that binds or feels gritty should go in the scrap bin. It would be good to toss a new clutch in while it's apart too.
03-17-2012, 06:18 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Post or PM me your engines serial number and cars model year, you need to make sure you are using the correct IMS tensioner. Also if you have time, post a vid or some pics of what the suspect tensioner looks like.
If you want to borrow more of my tools I can mail you my modified LN bearing extractor. It is threaded for the revised LNE stud.
If you want to borrow more of my tools I can mail you my modified LN bearing extractor. It is threaded for the revised LNE stud.
03-17-2012, 07:59 PM
#15
Post or PM me your engines serial number and cars model year, you need to make sure you are using the correct IMS tensioner. Also if you have time, post a vid or some pics of what the suspect tensioner looks like.
If you want to borrow more of my tools I can mail you my modified LN bearing extractor. It is threaded for the revised LNE stud.
If you want to borrow more of my tools I can mail you my modified LN bearing extractor. It is threaded for the revised LNE stud.