DIY IMS Upgrade (with clutch/RMS/LWFW and a new slave cylinder)
10-26-2010, 11:33 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
I must agree with Jake on the LWFW... I watched several motors meet their end this summer while PCA CR... Each had the LWFW... Myself, I did not make the switch... Run as hard as these 2 gentalmen (who lost the motor) at the limit of rev's... my car as of yet is still happy & strong! From my years for racing with AMA, SCCA & now PCA... You either balance everything or don't bother messing with it!
10-27-2010, 01:22 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
I know one person who lunched 3 engines in a 10 month period, all with broken cranks and a LWFW.. He never listened to me.
BTW- I've LOST power and lost tune when going to a LWFW in the past, thats even with an assembly balanced on my CN balancer to .2 oz/in. Its not been just one or two engines either. You have to run a standalone data acquisition system to see why this is, lets just say that harmonics have a way of retarding ignition timing.
The 72mm stroke Boxster cranks are the strongest of all, less overlap and stronger fillets than any other.. Their is a reason why the 3.6 crank has been revised 7 times, run a LWFW on a 3.6 on the track and you might just find it. Many people have, even with balanced assemblies.
BTW- I've LOST power and lost tune when going to a LWFW in the past, thats even with an assembly balanced on my CN balancer to .2 oz/in. Its not been just one or two engines either. You have to run a standalone data acquisition system to see why this is, lets just say that harmonics have a way of retarding ignition timing.
The 72mm stroke Boxster cranks are the strongest of all, less overlap and stronger fillets than any other.. Their is a reason why the 3.6 crank has been revised 7 times, run a LWFW on a 3.6 on the track and you might just find it. Many people have, even with balanced assemblies.
Last edited by Jake Raby; 01-11-2015 at 11:56 PM.
10-28-2010, 01:37 PM
#20
Advanced
Thread Starter
I know one person who lunched 3 engines in a 10 month period, all with broken cranks and a LWFW.. He never listened to me.
BTW- I've LOST power and lost tune when going to a LWFW in the past, thats even with an assembly balanced on my CN balancer to .2 oz/in. Its not been just one or two engines either. You have to run a standalone data acquisition system to see why this is, lets just say that harmonics have a way of retarding ignition timing.
The 72mm stroke Boxster cranks are the strongest of all, less overlap and stronger fillets than any other.. Their is a reason why the 3.6 crank has been revised 7 times, run a LWFW on a 3.6 on the track and you might just find it. Many people have, even with balanced assemblies.
BTW- I've LOST power and lost tune when going to a LWFW in the past, thats even with an assembly balanced on my CN balancer to .2 oz/in. Its not been just one or two engines either. You have to run a standalone data acquisition system to see why this is, lets just say that harmonics have a way of retarding ignition timing.
The 72mm stroke Boxster cranks are the strongest of all, less overlap and stronger fillets than any other.. Their is a reason why the 3.6 crank has been revised 7 times, run a LWFW on a 3.6 on the track and you might just find it. Many people have, even with balanced assemblies.
I'ts not that big of an improvement in acceleration overall. Maybe I'll return it and get exhaust instead 
Should have some pics soon btw
10-28-2010, 01:55 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
FWIW I se a bigger gain from an under driven crank pulley than most any other bolt on, even a 3K buck exhaust system.
The LWFW doesn't increase HP, it increases throttle response which does increase acceleration.
The LWFW doesn't increase HP, it increases throttle response which does increase acceleration.
10-28-2010, 03:47 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
With any performance change you need to tie all the changes together... just swapping out the exhaust will not produce great gains (just big grins!).
The quicker throttle response can be a lost leader! Learn to drive the better, control the rpm range thru the corners and... Bingo Bango your are accelerating faster.
JMTC
The quicker throttle response can be a lost leader! Learn to drive the better, control the rpm range thru the corners and... Bingo Bango your are accelerating faster.
JMTC
10-28-2010, 05:54 PM
#23
Advanced
Thread Starter
For you guys that have done this... Did you pull all of the spark plugs to rotate the engine to TDC?
Also, do I need any replacement seals/o-rings for draining the oil/spark plugs etc?
Also, do I need any replacement seals/o-rings for draining the oil/spark plugs etc?
10-28-2010, 06:31 PM
#24
Drifting
You don't need to remove the spark plugs to rotate the engine. I removed the serpentine belt and used a socket on the pulley bolt. You will need a new washer for the oil drain plug.
10-28-2010, 08:51 PM
#25
Advanced
Thread Starter
I'm off to a bit of a rough start. None of my floor jacks will fit under the car. I'm going to borrow a low-profile one tomorrow.
My plan is to use the rear lift points to lift the side of the car enough to get a jack stand under the front lift points then jack up from the rear crossmember to get jackstands under the rear lift points. It's pretty obvious they never designed this to be worked on without a lift
10-28-2010, 09:46 PM
#26
Thanks!
I'm off to a bit of a rough start. None of my floor jacks will fit under the car. I'm going to borrow a low-profile one tomorrow.
My plan is to use the rear lift points to lift the side of the car enough to get a jack stand under the front lift points then jack up from the rear crossmember to get jackstands under the rear lift points. It's pretty obvious they never designed this to be worked on without a lift
I'm off to a bit of a rough start. None of my floor jacks will fit under the car. I'm going to borrow a low-profile one tomorrow.
My plan is to use the rear lift points to lift the side of the car enough to get a jack stand under the front lift points then jack up from the rear crossmember to get jackstands under the rear lift points. It's pretty obvious they never designed this to be worked on without a lift
10-30-2010, 06:10 PM
#30
Advanced
Thread Starter
So I've made some progress....
I've got all the bolts out of the bellhousing except this one:
The one on the top really is a bear to get at!!!
Nothing I have fits, I've tried allen wrenches like mentioned above with no luck.
Does anyone know where to get this tool or what it is?
I've got all the bolts out of the bellhousing except this one:
The one on the top really is a bear to get at!!!
Nothing I have fits, I've tried allen wrenches like mentioned above with no luck.
Does anyone know where to get this tool or what it is?