ROW M030 Install on C4
#1
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ROW M030 Install on C4
I am getting ready to purchase this suspension for this winter and I read through the install write up on Renntech, but one question wasn't answered. Do the half shafts have to be removed to do this removal/install on the front of the car? Thanks in advance!
#3
Nordschleife Master
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I'm with Rob!! When I did the X74 install (should be the same if you go 030) I had to loosen up the carriage in the front to get the struts out. Did not have to remove the shafts though. Good luck!
#4
Three Wheelin'
you do not need to remove the half shafts... BUT! you really should forget the RoWM030 and go for the
X73 kit (is for the C4) you can get it from Suncoast or Gert.
This will transform your car!
X73 kit (is for the C4) you can get it from Suncoast or Gert.
This will transform your car!
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Thanks for the replies guys! I'm glad I won't have to remove the half shafts. Sneaky Pete what "Carriage" are you referring too? One thing I was going to do is remove the calipers just to make everything easier and gain some clearence.
As for the X73 I think it is out of my budget and my car is going to be mostly on the street, maybe one track event a year so I think the RoWM030 will be fine for what i'm looking for.
As for the X73 I think it is out of my budget and my car is going to be mostly on the street, maybe one track event a year so I think the RoWM030 will be fine for what i'm looking for.
#7
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I had to loosen up the bolts for the front pumpkin (transmission). This allowed me to slip the front struts out. You don't need to take the calipers off. Since the existing struts are taller, loosening the bolts on the undercarriage in front, the first front strut you take out will be a bugger. After that the other side will be like a teeter totter and you can pull right out. Putting the struts back in is easier. The other time consuming thing was getting the front sway replaced.
One last thing....the X73 is for a C4S and TT. The X74 is correct for the C4. That is if you went that way.
One last thing....the X73 is for a C4S and TT. The X74 is correct for the C4. That is if you went that way.
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#8
Parts Specialist
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I was involved with Pete's decision when he wanted the M030 and I yelled quite a bit to get the X74 - and I would do the same for you....
I went thru this when I was doing my car as well
So the reality is the M030 is fine but IMO it's about the same price as a X74, its the same work and the "change" is really too little for the amount of effort. The X74 is not too much, its just enough to make it worth doing. Ask Pete, plenty fine for street too - I just think M030 is a tad bit too little, the X74 is the "just right" suspension
IMO you will be wanting to upgrade right after installing M030 - dont do it, get the x74
I went thru this when I was doing my car as well
So the reality is the M030 is fine but IMO it's about the same price as a X74, its the same work and the "change" is really too little for the amount of effort. The X74 is not too much, its just enough to make it worth doing. Ask Pete, plenty fine for street too - I just think M030 is a tad bit too little, the X74 is the "just right" suspension
IMO you will be wanting to upgrade right after installing M030 - dont do it, get the x74
#10
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#12
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Ok - but read more than think... you will discover if you look at the srping rates and ride heights and overall package that the X74 really is a nice daily driver and the changes are "enough" to know you did something where as the M030 is just too subtle of a change to go thru all that work...just not enough cowbell and you will be thinking "I gota have more cowbell"
seriously
seriously
#13
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I'm a supporter of the M030... I love the idea of the x73/x74, but with the bumpy roads here and extra 20mm of drop, I 'think' life would be pretty miserable with trips to the chiropracter and regularly repainting/replacing the front lip...
#14
Drifting
Last spring I put PSS10's on my C4 and the fronts are a little challenging. You can't clear the fender with the top of the strut without some extra work. You will need a ball joint separator to separate the ball joints on the wheel carrier that attach it to the main control arm and the front control arm. I bought a separator from Harbor Freight for less than $10 that worked fine. Once these are separated you can get the carrier out a bit and lower it. As part of this the half shafts will pull out of the center differential. While the shop manual says to take the nuts off the half shaft at the wheel carrier don't bother, you would have to press the shafts out of the wheel carrier based on my experience. Protect the splines on the differential end of the shafts when they are out of the diff. They slide right out. When reassembling the shafts will slide right back in. However they won't go all the way back in so that the seals fit in the diff without a little help. You may want to remove the plastic shield under the car so you can see better. I used a wooden drift and a rubber mallet to tap the shafts back into the diff. Really pretty easy to do, the second one is always easier.