My DIY experience pulling the transmission.
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 345
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My DIY experience pulling the transmission.
I thought some might be interested in hearing about my experience of pretending to be a mechanic… I’ve tinkered around with bolt on accessories and replaced the alternator a few weeks ago, but have never taken on anything serious.
Last weekend I dropped the transmission to replace everything in the bell housing, short of the flywheel. Long story short… 14 hours, lots of bruises, and $800 lighter in the pocket book, the clutch feels fantastic. Now for the long story…
When I bought the car last year, I had an independent pre purchase inspection done, and was told it was mechanically perfect. When I flew out and jumped in the car, the clutch felt REALLY heavy, but not experiencing a lot of Porsches and my buddy’s Porsche having a heavy clutch, I thought it was normal since the PPI came back clean. When I got back into town my friend Fier said that it was too heavy and I should get it checked out. I figured the PPI was done and it worked, so not to bother at this point.
This Spring I started hearing a squealing when the clutch was fully disengaged… release bearing. After a few weeks, I started hearing a creaking when actuating the clutch. A TSB said it was likely the shift release lever. At this point, I gave in and started researching the job of pulling the transmission and replacing everything in the bell housing.
Parts from US: $800 + $720 if I need a flywheel.
Estimated time: 10 to 12 hours
So, if I bought the parts (at double the cost of the US source) and labor from the local dealership, that’s about $5000… a little steep for me.
I tracked down a shop manual and read the DIY sites and headed over to my friend's, Rennlister Kirk F. He’s done a LOT of work on his 964 Carrera 4 and I figured if there was any chance of pulling this off, I’d need his help.
It appeared to be a pretty straight forward process.
-up on 4 jack stands
-remove under body panels
-disconnect axel shafts, shift linkages, reverse sensor, clutch slave cylinder
-remove transmission braces and support tranny and engine
-remove 8 bolts connecting the transmission
-remove transmission
-replace shift release lever, release bearing, and other tidbits.
-remove pressure plate and clutch
-inspect flywheel and rear main engine seal, and replace if necessary
-replace pressure plate and clutch
-put it all back together.
In reality, it was 14 hours of hard work. The highlights included:
-hearing my buddy’s joints pop as he was hanging off the wrench to get the top bolt on the transmission to break loose.
-stripping the pressure plate bolt… thankfully a quick fix with my buddy’s air tools.
-seeing that the flywheel and RMS were in great shape.
-the bitch of the job getting the transmission apart from the engine, and then reattaching it.
-The lengthy process triple checking all of my torques.
-The frustration of realizing that the PPI SHOULD have caught the siezed release bearing IMHO
-The satisfaction of it actually working after all that work… and saving about $4200.
I snapped a couple of pics along the way…
Up up and away…
Underbody panels are off. Not as clean as the California car in the DIY site… but this is the real world
Removing clutch slave cylinder… I was bitch’n about this having crappy access… that was before I started on the transmission bolts.
The SOB is out!
The source of the creaking… note the wear on the release lever.
A quick flex of the DMF… one stripped pressure plate bolt.
You only get one guess at which clutch is the new one.
New clutch and pressure plate installed.
The lengthy process of reattaching the axle shafts. Center bolt, park brake on, tighten, park brake off, rotate 180 degrees, park brake on, tighten, park brake off, repeat. I did that twice for each frik'n bolt to get it up to 60 foot lbs, then double checked to make sure I didn't miss one... drawn out, but had to be sure.
Last weekend I dropped the transmission to replace everything in the bell housing, short of the flywheel. Long story short… 14 hours, lots of bruises, and $800 lighter in the pocket book, the clutch feels fantastic. Now for the long story…
When I bought the car last year, I had an independent pre purchase inspection done, and was told it was mechanically perfect. When I flew out and jumped in the car, the clutch felt REALLY heavy, but not experiencing a lot of Porsches and my buddy’s Porsche having a heavy clutch, I thought it was normal since the PPI came back clean. When I got back into town my friend Fier said that it was too heavy and I should get it checked out. I figured the PPI was done and it worked, so not to bother at this point.
This Spring I started hearing a squealing when the clutch was fully disengaged… release bearing. After a few weeks, I started hearing a creaking when actuating the clutch. A TSB said it was likely the shift release lever. At this point, I gave in and started researching the job of pulling the transmission and replacing everything in the bell housing.
Parts from US: $800 + $720 if I need a flywheel.
Estimated time: 10 to 12 hours
So, if I bought the parts (at double the cost of the US source) and labor from the local dealership, that’s about $5000… a little steep for me.
I tracked down a shop manual and read the DIY sites and headed over to my friend's, Rennlister Kirk F. He’s done a LOT of work on his 964 Carrera 4 and I figured if there was any chance of pulling this off, I’d need his help.
It appeared to be a pretty straight forward process.
-up on 4 jack stands
-remove under body panels
-disconnect axel shafts, shift linkages, reverse sensor, clutch slave cylinder
-remove transmission braces and support tranny and engine
-remove 8 bolts connecting the transmission
-remove transmission
-replace shift release lever, release bearing, and other tidbits.
-remove pressure plate and clutch
-inspect flywheel and rear main engine seal, and replace if necessary
-replace pressure plate and clutch
-put it all back together.
In reality, it was 14 hours of hard work. The highlights included:
-hearing my buddy’s joints pop as he was hanging off the wrench to get the top bolt on the transmission to break loose.
-stripping the pressure plate bolt… thankfully a quick fix with my buddy’s air tools.
-seeing that the flywheel and RMS were in great shape.
-the bitch of the job getting the transmission apart from the engine, and then reattaching it.
-The lengthy process triple checking all of my torques.
-The frustration of realizing that the PPI SHOULD have caught the siezed release bearing IMHO
-The satisfaction of it actually working after all that work… and saving about $4200.
I snapped a couple of pics along the way…
Up up and away…
Underbody panels are off. Not as clean as the California car in the DIY site… but this is the real world
Removing clutch slave cylinder… I was bitch’n about this having crappy access… that was before I started on the transmission bolts.
The SOB is out!
The source of the creaking… note the wear on the release lever.
A quick flex of the DMF… one stripped pressure plate bolt.
You only get one guess at which clutch is the new one.
New clutch and pressure plate installed.
The lengthy process of reattaching the axle shafts. Center bolt, park brake on, tighten, park brake off, rotate 180 degrees, park brake on, tighten, park brake off, repeat. I did that twice for each frik'n bolt to get it up to 60 foot lbs, then double checked to make sure I didn't miss one... drawn out, but had to be sure.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 345
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There goes the any credibility I may have just built up... What is an AOS?
If it's to the right of the pressure plate, I didn't notice it till you pointed it out. If it is a leak, it must be very slow, I haven't seen a loss in oil or any drips under the car...
If it's to the right of the pressure plate, I didn't notice it till you pointed it out. If it is a leak, it must be very slow, I haven't seen a loss in oil or any drips under the car...
#7
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You have done well
I am surprised you squeezed the tranny out withthe car only that high?
how heavy is the tranny?
YOU ROCK -
Plus you said it feels great so you did the job right!!!
WTG!! (=way to go, so you don't have to burn those credibility points)
E
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Congratulations on your adventure!
What gets me is that a good dealer mechanic with a lift and transmission jack can do this job in under 3 hours, but the dealer will still charge you like it was a 14 hour job. Kudos for taking this job on and being successful at it. I love to hear a story like this where you get your hands dirty and save enough money for a good celebration dinner afterwards!
What gets me is that a good dealer mechanic with a lift and transmission jack can do this job in under 3 hours, but the dealer will still charge you like it was a 14 hour job. Kudos for taking this job on and being successful at it. I love to hear a story like this where you get your hands dirty and save enough money for a good celebration dinner afterwards!
#10
didnt mean it that way, much respect here... AOS = air oil seperator... its common to have some oil seepage in that area and thought you noticed the source.
#11
Burning Brakes
Very nice job! Wht kind of jack(s) did you use to get it out? I'll have to check that same location for oil on my car, but I think it's pretty clean under there. How many miles were on the clutch? Mine is still good, but I can tell it will need replacement in the next 20k miles and was thinking of doing it myself also if I couldn't get a good price locally.
#14
You worry to much LV just make sure you dont rock the car too much loosening up bolts and stuff... lifta re for wimps (just kidding - i guess if the damn thing lands on you it aint funny)
still i must say all my work is done on stands
still i must say all my work is done on stands
#15
Nordschleife Master
Let's just say talking with colleagues that have been in the ER when somebody is brought in when a jack failed they almost always end up down in the basement
You'll never win a battle with a 3K# car.
You'll never win a battle with a 3K# car.