My DIY experience pulling the transmission.
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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I thought some might be interested in hearing about my experience of pretending to be a mechanic… I’ve tinkered around with bolt on accessories and replaced the alternator a few weeks ago, but have never taken on anything serious.
Last weekend I dropped the transmission to replace everything in the bell housing, short of the flywheel. Long story short… 14 hours, lots of bruises, and $800 lighter in the pocket book, the clutch feels fantastic. Now for the long story…
When I bought the car last year, I had an independent pre purchase inspection done, and was told it was mechanically perfect. When I flew out and jumped in the car, the clutch felt REALLY heavy, but not experiencing a lot of Porsches and my buddy’s Porsche having a heavy clutch, I thought it was normal since the PPI came back clean. When I got back into town my friend Fier said that it was too heavy and I should get it checked out. I figured the PPI was done and it worked, so not to bother at this point.
This Spring I started hearing a squealing when the clutch was fully disengaged… release bearing. After a few weeks, I started hearing a creaking when actuating the clutch. A TSB said it was likely the shift release lever. At this point, I gave in and started researching the job of pulling the transmission and replacing everything in the bell housing.
Parts from US: $800 + $720 if I need a flywheel.
Estimated time: 10 to 12 hours
So, if I bought the parts (at double the cost of the US source) and labor from the local dealership, that’s about $5000… a little steep for me.
I tracked down a shop manual and read the DIY sites and headed over to my friend's, Rennlister Kirk F. He’s done a LOT of work on his 964 Carrera 4 and I figured if there was any chance of pulling this off, I’d need his help.
It appeared to be a pretty straight forward process.
-up on 4 jack stands
-remove under body panels
-disconnect axel shafts, shift linkages, reverse sensor, clutch slave cylinder
-remove transmission braces and support tranny and engine
-remove 8 bolts connecting the transmission
-remove transmission
-replace shift release lever, release bearing, and other tidbits.
-remove pressure plate and clutch
-inspect flywheel and rear main engine seal, and replace if necessary
-replace pressure plate and clutch
-put it all back together.
In reality, it was 14 hours of hard work. The highlights included:
-hearing my buddy’s joints pop as he was hanging off the wrench to get the top bolt on the transmission to break loose.
-stripping the pressure plate bolt… thankfully a quick fix with my buddy’s air tools.
-seeing that the flywheel and RMS were in great shape.
-the bitch of the job getting the transmission apart from the engine, and then reattaching it.
-The lengthy process triple checking all of my torques.
-The frustration of realizing that the PPI SHOULD have caught the siezed release bearing IMHO
-The satisfaction of it actually working after all that work… and saving about $4200.
I snapped a couple of pics along the way…
Up up and away…
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans1.jpg)
Underbody panels are off. Not as clean as the California car in the DIY site… but this is the real world![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans2.jpg)
Removing clutch slave cylinder… I was bitch’n about this having crappy access… that was before I started on the transmission bolts.
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans3.jpg)
The SOB is out!
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans4.jpg)
The source of the creaking… note the wear on the release lever.
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans5.jpg)
A quick flex of the DMF… one stripped pressure plate bolt.
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans6.jpg)
You only get one guess at which clutch is the new one.
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans7.jpg)
New clutch and pressure plate installed.
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans9.jpg)
The lengthy process of reattaching the axle shafts. Center bolt, park brake on, tighten, park brake off, rotate 180 degrees, park brake on, tighten, park brake off, repeat. I did that twice for each frik'n bolt to get it up to 60 foot lbs, then double checked to make sure I didn't miss one... drawn out, but had to be sure.
Last weekend I dropped the transmission to replace everything in the bell housing, short of the flywheel. Long story short… 14 hours, lots of bruises, and $800 lighter in the pocket book, the clutch feels fantastic. Now for the long story…
When I bought the car last year, I had an independent pre purchase inspection done, and was told it was mechanically perfect. When I flew out and jumped in the car, the clutch felt REALLY heavy, but not experiencing a lot of Porsches and my buddy’s Porsche having a heavy clutch, I thought it was normal since the PPI came back clean. When I got back into town my friend Fier said that it was too heavy and I should get it checked out. I figured the PPI was done and it worked, so not to bother at this point.
This Spring I started hearing a squealing when the clutch was fully disengaged… release bearing. After a few weeks, I started hearing a creaking when actuating the clutch. A TSB said it was likely the shift release lever. At this point, I gave in and started researching the job of pulling the transmission and replacing everything in the bell housing.
Parts from US: $800 + $720 if I need a flywheel.
Estimated time: 10 to 12 hours
So, if I bought the parts (at double the cost of the US source) and labor from the local dealership, that’s about $5000… a little steep for me.
I tracked down a shop manual and read the DIY sites and headed over to my friend's, Rennlister Kirk F. He’s done a LOT of work on his 964 Carrera 4 and I figured if there was any chance of pulling this off, I’d need his help.
It appeared to be a pretty straight forward process.
-up on 4 jack stands
-remove under body panels
-disconnect axel shafts, shift linkages, reverse sensor, clutch slave cylinder
-remove transmission braces and support tranny and engine
-remove 8 bolts connecting the transmission
-remove transmission
-replace shift release lever, release bearing, and other tidbits.
-remove pressure plate and clutch
-inspect flywheel and rear main engine seal, and replace if necessary
-replace pressure plate and clutch
-put it all back together.
In reality, it was 14 hours of hard work. The highlights included:
-hearing my buddy’s joints pop as he was hanging off the wrench to get the top bolt on the transmission to break loose.
-stripping the pressure plate bolt… thankfully a quick fix with my buddy’s air tools.
-seeing that the flywheel and RMS were in great shape.
-the bitch of the job getting the transmission apart from the engine, and then reattaching it.
-The lengthy process triple checking all of my torques.
-The frustration of realizing that the PPI SHOULD have caught the siezed release bearing IMHO
-The satisfaction of it actually working after all that work… and saving about $4200.
I snapped a couple of pics along the way…
Up up and away…
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans1.jpg)
Underbody panels are off. Not as clean as the California car in the DIY site… but this is the real world
![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans2.jpg)
Removing clutch slave cylinder… I was bitch’n about this having crappy access… that was before I started on the transmission bolts.
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans3.jpg)
The SOB is out!
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans4.jpg)
The source of the creaking… note the wear on the release lever.
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans5.jpg)
A quick flex of the DMF… one stripped pressure plate bolt.
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans6.jpg)
You only get one guess at which clutch is the new one.
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans7.jpg)
New clutch and pressure plate installed.
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans9.jpg)
The lengthy process of reattaching the axle shafts. Center bolt, park brake on, tighten, park brake off, rotate 180 degrees, park brake on, tighten, park brake off, repeat. I did that twice for each frik'n bolt to get it up to 60 foot lbs, then double checked to make sure I didn't miss one... drawn out, but had to be sure.
![](http://www.mts.net/~rsa/trans10.jpg)
#6
Racer
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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There goes the any credibility I may have just built up... What is an AOS?
If it's to the right of the pressure plate, I didn't notice it till you pointed it out. If it is a leak, it must be very slow, I haven't seen a loss in oil or any drips under the car...
If it's to the right of the pressure plate, I didn't notice it till you pointed it out. If it is a leak, it must be very slow, I haven't seen a loss in oil or any drips under the car...
#7
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
You have done well
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
I am surprised you squeezed the tranny out withthe car only that high?
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
how heavy is the tranny?
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
YOU ROCK -
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
Plus you said it feels great so you did the job right!!!
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
WTG!! (=way to go, so you don't have to burn those credibility points)
E
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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Congratulations on your adventure!
What gets me is that a good dealer mechanic with a lift and transmission jack can do this job in under 3 hours, but the dealer will still charge you like it was a 14 hour job. Kudos for taking this job on and being successful at it. I love to hear a story like this where you get your hands dirty and save enough money for a good celebration dinner afterwards!
What gets me is that a good dealer mechanic with a lift and transmission jack can do this job in under 3 hours, but the dealer will still charge you like it was a 14 hour job. Kudos for taking this job on and being successful at it. I love to hear a story like this where you get your hands dirty and save enough money for a good celebration dinner afterwards!
#10
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didnt mean it that way, much respect here... AOS = air oil seperator... its common to have some oil seepage in that area and thought you noticed the source.
#11
Burning Brakes
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Very nice job! Wht kind of jack(s) did you use to get it out? I'll have to check that same location for oil on my car, but I think it's pretty clean under there. How many miles were on the clutch? Mine is still good, but I can tell it will need replacement in the next 20k miles and was thinking of doing it myself also if I couldn't get a good price locally.
#14
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You worry to much LV just make sure you dont rock the car too much loosening up bolts and stuff... lifta re for wimps (just kidding - i guess if the damn thing lands on you it aint funny)
still i must say all my work is done on stands
still i must say all my work is done on stands
#15
Nordschleife Master
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Let's just say talking with colleagues that have been in the ER when somebody is brought in when a jack failed they almost always end up down in the basement ![surrender](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/surrender.gif)
You'll never win a battle with a 3K# car.
![surrender](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/surrender.gif)
You'll never win a battle with a 3K# car.