Window doesnt drop when door open
#16
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But in that case he'd hear the motor run when he operates the handle, and he doesn't. So it points to a wiring problem or some other issue with the control unit.
#17
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Doug, I am pretty sure you are correct. It is a wiring issue, or a controller issue. Do you know what module does the window control, and where it is mounted ? I am jazzed about the idea that it might be that the system needs to be re-trained. wouldnt that be nice. I will try to do that when I get home tonight.
#18
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As for hearing the motor
Go try it on your car, and you will notice that you don't hear the motor on a door that is working correctly. What you do hear is the window moving up and down in the window track. Remember the motor is only turning about a quarter revolution.
But the debate would be ended, by just pulling the door handle up, pushing down on the window with you hand, and letting up on the door handle to see if the motor pushes the window back up again.
But the debate would be ended, by just pulling the door handle up, pushing down on the window with you hand, and letting up on the door handle to see if the motor pushes the window back up again.
#19
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I know that when my regulator started to die and the window stopped doing its dance when opening/closing the door, I could still hear the motor spin for a fraction of a second.
#20
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The alarm control unit is responsible for the window control and it is located under the driver's seat. One thing you might want to know is that both the interior and exterior door handle microswitches are wired in parallel, as well as being wired in parallel with a couple of contacts inside the door lock itself. So don't overlook the potential for the lock to be the cause of your problems. You might want to try manually cycling the key in the lock a few times to see if that helps.
#21
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Well, I feel sort of dumb
It looks like it is regulator after all. Got home, and played around with it, and motor does turn for about 1/2 second. If I push the window down, then release handle, it pushes window up.
Sorry wasn't a contest, no prizes except for whoever I buy a regulator for when it does finally fail.
Thanks for the ideas.
It looks like it is regulator after all. Got home, and played around with it, and motor does turn for about 1/2 second. If I push the window down, then release handle, it pushes window up.
Sorry wasn't a contest, no prizes except for whoever I buy a regulator for when it does finally fail.
Thanks for the ideas.
#23
Three Wheelin'
That's OK, I bet you didn't listen to your mother either!
Now on to the adjustment. You can take the slack out without removing the regulator. Just take the interior door panel off, remove the airbag, and the waterproofing membrane on the door. Make sure the window is UP before you start this process.
Once you get to the regulator, you will see the adjustment clips on one side of the motor where the bowden tube mounts on the motor. Pop the clip, pull the bowden tube tight, but not too tight, reclip it, and you are done.
PS.
Don't turn the car on with the side airbag disconnected or you will throw a airbag fault light.
Alternative:
Go to dealer and pay $500-600 for same thing.
Now on to the adjustment. You can take the slack out without removing the regulator. Just take the interior door panel off, remove the airbag, and the waterproofing membrane on the door. Make sure the window is UP before you start this process.
Once you get to the regulator, you will see the adjustment clips on one side of the motor where the bowden tube mounts on the motor. Pop the clip, pull the bowden tube tight, but not too tight, reclip it, and you are done.
PS.
Don't turn the car on with the side airbag disconnected or you will throw a airbag fault light.
Alternative:
Go to dealer and pay $500-600 for same thing.
#26
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I paid for this repair yesterday, door latch.157 .00 parts 225 labor
#27
I have this problem on my 1999 C2, but I claim the cable cannot be tightened beyond the amount it automatically adjusts itself via the spring described below. I would love to be proven wrong and hope someone can do so.
My symptoms are: on driver's side, pulling door handle, inside or out, I hear the window motor wind a partial turn but the window does not nudge down at all. After opening the door, I can press down on the top of the window and it will move down the expected amount. Passenger side works fine. Using the power window switches I can power the windows up and down all day.
I pulled the door panel as per
http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/ (thank you!) and
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/392254-how-to-adjust-the-windows.html (thanks!) and removed the insulating sheet. Took about an hour going slowly and carefully.
I tried to apply Orient Express' instructions for making the actual adjustment, which I will re-paste here:
"Now on to the adjustment. You can take the slack out without removing the regulator. Just take the interior door panel off, remove the airbag, and the waterproofing membrane on the door. Make sure the window is UP before you start this process.
Once you get to the regulator, you will see the adjustment clips on one side of the motor where the bowden tube mounts on the motor. Pop the clip, pull the bowden tube tight, but not too tight, reclip it, and you are done."
By "adjustment clips" do you mean the four pins seen here: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster...arated1_lg.jpg on this page: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/
I see exactly this configuration, and it seems to me that the spring on one side of these clips is there to take up slack in the cable as it stretches. I believe my cable is stretched beyond the point where the spring can adjust for the slack.
All I could do was fiddle a bit with the spring, trying to get the cable a little more taut. It was pretty loose and I could feel how the partial turn the motor makes would not be enough to move the window.
Anyway, I reassembled everything and was rewarded with a nudge down on my first try--but only once. I think I was able to get the cable tight enough to work one time but then the slack came back. Now I am back to the symptoms described above.
I have also tried the adjustment routine I saw elsewhere on the forum: press and hold power window button for a few seconds beyond the time when the window is fully up or down. No joy.
I'm left thinking the dealer was right: once the cable is stretched too much, a new regulator is the way to go.
Guys, thanks for all the excellent info, especially the photos and the procedures. I got this car one week ago and absolutely love it. Please set me straight if you think there is still a way for me to adjust the cable slack.
Now I have to figure out what to do with the (apparently) incorrect PCM code I got from the seller. I'm locked out of the PCM and Navi.
Attaching pictures now...
Cheers!
Axelray
My symptoms are: on driver's side, pulling door handle, inside or out, I hear the window motor wind a partial turn but the window does not nudge down at all. After opening the door, I can press down on the top of the window and it will move down the expected amount. Passenger side works fine. Using the power window switches I can power the windows up and down all day.
I pulled the door panel as per
http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/ (thank you!) and
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/392254-how-to-adjust-the-windows.html (thanks!) and removed the insulating sheet. Took about an hour going slowly and carefully.
I tried to apply Orient Express' instructions for making the actual adjustment, which I will re-paste here:
"Now on to the adjustment. You can take the slack out without removing the regulator. Just take the interior door panel off, remove the airbag, and the waterproofing membrane on the door. Make sure the window is UP before you start this process.
Once you get to the regulator, you will see the adjustment clips on one side of the motor where the bowden tube mounts on the motor. Pop the clip, pull the bowden tube tight, but not too tight, reclip it, and you are done."
By "adjustment clips" do you mean the four pins seen here: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster...arated1_lg.jpg on this page: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/
I see exactly this configuration, and it seems to me that the spring on one side of these clips is there to take up slack in the cable as it stretches. I believe my cable is stretched beyond the point where the spring can adjust for the slack.
All I could do was fiddle a bit with the spring, trying to get the cable a little more taut. It was pretty loose and I could feel how the partial turn the motor makes would not be enough to move the window.
Anyway, I reassembled everything and was rewarded with a nudge down on my first try--but only once. I think I was able to get the cable tight enough to work one time but then the slack came back. Now I am back to the symptoms described above.
I have also tried the adjustment routine I saw elsewhere on the forum: press and hold power window button for a few seconds beyond the time when the window is fully up or down. No joy.
I'm left thinking the dealer was right: once the cable is stretched too much, a new regulator is the way to go.
Guys, thanks for all the excellent info, especially the photos and the procedures. I got this car one week ago and absolutely love it. Please set me straight if you think there is still a way for me to adjust the cable slack.
Now I have to figure out what to do with the (apparently) incorrect PCM code I got from the seller. I'm locked out of the PCM and Navi.
Attaching pictures now...
Cheers!
Axelray
#28
Thanks Guys,
Mine is doing the same thing. I can push down the window the required 1/2 inch --- shut the door and it closes the window.
I have read the Renn Tech write up on removing the door panel --- sounds like a job.
It is cold in my garage right now --- so will close by hand --- it is the pass door.
Thanks again
Chuck 951
Mine is doing the same thing. I can push down the window the required 1/2 inch --- shut the door and it closes the window.
I have read the Renn Tech write up on removing the door panel --- sounds like a job.
It is cold in my garage right now --- so will close by hand --- it is the pass door.
Thanks again
Chuck 951
#29
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Is there an advantage to this design besides having the same doors for cabs and coupes? Does any other car need electrical power to open the damn doors?