Window doesnt drop when door open
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Window doesnt drop when door open
My drivers side window no longer drops the 1/2 inch when I pull on either the inside or outside door handle. Makes it nearly impossible to close door. Passenger side still works fine. Anyone have any hints on first thing to look for ???
#5
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Your window regulator cable is stretched
There are 2 solutions to this issue:
1 Replace the window regulator with a new one. The regulator costs about $190, and takes a little over 2 hours to R&R going at a leisurely pace.
2. Adjust the Bowden Tube on the existing regulator to take up the slack on the cable. This method only costs the 2 or less hours needed to take off the door panel to get to the regulator. The Bowden tube is the white plastic tube that the regulator cable is in and has clips on the regulator motor end that can be adjusted to take up the slack from the cable stretching. Adjusting the cable will give your regulator a few more years of use and save you some cash. This is the same mechanism that is used on Audi, VW, and most other German window regulators.
Beware, however if you go to a dealer. They will insist that there is no adjustment, and that they "have" to replace the regulator, and charge you list for the regulator and labor.
1 Replace the window regulator with a new one. The regulator costs about $190, and takes a little over 2 hours to R&R going at a leisurely pace.
2. Adjust the Bowden Tube on the existing regulator to take up the slack on the cable. This method only costs the 2 or less hours needed to take off the door panel to get to the regulator. The Bowden tube is the white plastic tube that the regulator cable is in and has clips on the regulator motor end that can be adjusted to take up the slack from the cable stretching. Adjusting the cable will give your regulator a few more years of use and save you some cash. This is the same mechanism that is used on Audi, VW, and most other German window regulators.
Beware, however if you go to a dealer. They will insist that there is no adjustment, and that they "have" to replace the regulator, and charge you list for the regulator and labor.
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From http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...-20-Frame3.htm
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Thanks so far for the suggestions, but I dont think any are on track. Not the regulator because the motor doesnt move or hum at all, but works fine from switch control. Not the microswitch because doesnt work with exterior or interior door handle. My guess is either break in wiring harness from door to body, or something wrong with window controller, wherever that is.
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Try "retraining" your window. Lower the window completely and continue to hold the window switch dwon for 10 - 15 seconds after the window is lowered. Raise the window and continue to hold the window switch dwon for 10 - 15 seconds after the window is completely raised. You may need to do this procedure twice to "retrain" the window.
If that does not resolve the issue, then I agree with Doug Donsbach that it is probably the microswitch in the door handle. Let us know how you resolved the problem.
If that does not resolve the issue, then I agree with Doug Donsbach that it is probably the microswitch in the door handle. Let us know how you resolved the problem.
#9
Thanks so far for the suggestions, but I dont think any are on track. Not the regulator because the motor doesnt move or hum at all, but works fine from switch control. Not the microswitch because doesnt work with exterior or interior door handle. My guess is either break in wiring harness from door to body, or something wrong with window controller, wherever that is.
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Thx
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Looking at the diagram of the inside, there seems to be an additional microswitch for the inside door handle. part #20. So .... I think there are two switches. Anybody have a schematic of this section, that would confirm one or two switches. I will also try retraining the window tonight when I get home. (Drove the Audi today, thunderstorms forcast)
Thx
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...-10-Frame3.htm
Looking at the diagram of the inside, there seems to be an additional microswitch for the inside door handle. part #20. So .... I think there are two switches. Anybody have a schematic of this section, that would confirm one or two switches. I will also try retraining the window tonight when I get home. (Drove the Audi today, thunderstorms forcast)
Thx
Looking at the diagram of the inside, there seems to be an additional microswitch for the inside door handle. part #20. So .... I think there are two switches. Anybody have a schematic of this section, that would confirm one or two switches. I will also try retraining the window tonight when I get home. (Drove the Audi today, thunderstorms forcast)
Thx
#15
Three Wheelin'
Just to add some more to the discussion
The probability of both microswitches going out at the same time is very unlikely.
What is more likely is that the cable in the Bowden tube has stretched just enough that even though the motor is pulling the cable the 1/2" that it needs to, the slack is such that the window is not being pulled down.
You can test this by after you open the door, push the window down by hand the 1/2" that the motor should be pulling it down. Then close the door, and the window should reset itself back to the fully closed position.
80% of window regulator problems are traced to a stretched regulator cable.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, if the cable stretch is not too severe, there is a Bowden tube adjustment on the regulator to take up the slack.
What is more likely is that the cable in the Bowden tube has stretched just enough that even though the motor is pulling the cable the 1/2" that it needs to, the slack is such that the window is not being pulled down.
You can test this by after you open the door, push the window down by hand the 1/2" that the motor should be pulling it down. Then close the door, and the window should reset itself back to the fully closed position.
80% of window regulator problems are traced to a stretched regulator cable.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, if the cable stretch is not too severe, there is a Bowden tube adjustment on the regulator to take up the slack.
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