Post pics of your rims
12-17-2006, 08:49 PM
#91
Three Wheelin'
Sandoval, I kept hearing the theme music to Knight Rider while I was looking at your pictures. That is truly the most unreal car on here. Man, she's a beauty! It's just so cool knowing that there's other Rennlisters out there who love their cars as much as I do.
Don, those sport designs DO look great! Out of curiosity, where might one pick up some chrome lug nuts? And I'll also be power searching on Boothe designs unless you or AsianImage come back first. Sweet!
Don, those sport designs DO look great! Out of curiosity, where might one pick up some chrome lug nuts? And I'll also be power searching on Boothe designs unless you or AsianImage come back first. Sweet!
12-17-2006, 10:27 PM
#92
Race Car
Here is a lesson learned about sleeze-bay. Bought these wheels and every single thing is wrong. Offset, lug cone angle, cheap center caps that allow water to saturate the lug bolts. Not to mention the balance of one wheel is so far off it looks like the guy balancing my wheels once the tires were put on used a whole "hershey" bar of weights to correct the imbalance. 
And the most important thing I failed to mention; they are not HUBCENTRIC, came with plastic spacers, WTF.
And the most important thing I failed to mention; they are not HUBCENTRIC, came with plastic spacers, WTF.
Last edited by Tippy; 12-19-2006 at 10:43 AM.
12-18-2006, 10:52 PM
#95
Instructor
Wow! Absolutely beautiful cars...amazing! Love the pics. Hats off to all you guys, 100% Porshce enthusiats. Gota love it.
Nice touch on the chrome studs on the OEM Sport wheels. I just purchased a set of OEM Sport wheels for my Arctic Silver 996C2 with the Aero kit and was able to pick up the studs for around $5 each from Vertex. I will probably rotate them with my Champion RG5 Monolites...a little variety now and then won't hurt.
Keep the pics coming!!!
Nice touch on the chrome studs on the OEM Sport wheels. I just purchased a set of OEM Sport wheels for my Arctic Silver 996C2 with the Aero kit and was able to pick up the studs for around $5 each from Vertex. I will probably rotate them with my Champion RG5 Monolites...a little variety now and then won't hurt.
Keep the pics coming!!!
12-19-2006, 05:05 AM
#96
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Originally Posted by AsianImage
Hey I like your wheel caps! Those are SILVER yet have color..the red and black!
Man..I want those! I just bought the silver ones...and I am still selling my gold ones. Dang it...those look great. I will google BOOTHE DESIGN...unless you have a linky.
Thanks!
EDIT - $90 each? That is crazy man! Dang...I really think that super crazy money....too rich for my blood. Suddenly my wheel caps look much better.
Man..I want those! I just bought the silver ones...and I am still selling my gold ones. Dang it...those look great. I will google BOOTHE DESIGN...unless you have a linky.
Thanks!
EDIT - $90 each? That is crazy man! Dang...I really think that super crazy money....too rich for my blood. Suddenly my wheel caps look much better.
12-19-2006, 11:17 AM
#98
Three Wheelin'
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Guys,
Great shots of various wheels on here, just making my upgrade choice that much harder.
Question: is it hard to clean around all those bolt heads in the inner rims? (I don't know the proper terminology.) The brake dust must get everywhere.
I am leaning toward less detailed designs, such as the Porsche OEM 5 spoke wheels.
Thanks,
CP
Great shots of various wheels on here, just making my upgrade choice that much harder.
Question: is it hard to clean around all those bolt heads in the inner rims? (I don't know the proper terminology.) The brake dust must get everywhere.
I am leaning toward less detailed designs, such as the Porsche OEM 5 spoke wheels.
Thanks,
CP
12-19-2006, 09:32 PM
#99
Burning Brakes
These are OE Porsche wheels...they are not original to the car though.
I'm actually thinking about selling these and getting the 19" Carrara S wheels that were posted earlier.
I'm actually thinking about selling these and getting the 19" Carrara S wheels that were posted earlier.
Last edited by M Fig; 09-17-2015 at 06:54 PM.
12-19-2006, 10:04 PM
#100
Addict
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Mark(MFig),
I would get 18's intead. It is well documented by the pros that the 996 is not meant to be run on 19s. Causes bump steer. Unless a pro shop do your allignment and do some minor mods, its very hard to chase the allignment on the 19s for the 996.
I would get 18's intead. It is well documented by the pros that the 996 is not meant to be run on 19s. Causes bump steer. Unless a pro shop do your allignment and do some minor mods, its very hard to chase the allignment on the 19s for the 996.
12-20-2006, 12:01 AM
#101
Drifting
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Originally Posted by Carrera Mike
Mark(MFig),
I would get 18's intead. It is well documented by the pros that the 996 is not meant to be run on 19s. Causes bump steer. Unless a pro shop do your allignment and do some minor mods, its very hard to chase the allignment on the 19s for the 996.
I would get 18's intead. It is well documented by the pros that the 996 is not meant to be run on 19s. Causes bump steer. Unless a pro shop do your allignment and do some minor mods, its very hard to chase the allignment on the 19s for the 996.
What's the bump steer you've heard about?
12-20-2006, 02:48 AM
#103
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Originally Posted by Carrera Mike
Mark(MFig),
I would get 18's intead. It is well documented by the pros that the 996 is not meant to be run on 19s. Causes bump steer. Unless a pro shop do your allignment and do some minor mods, its very hard to chase the allignment on the 19s for the 996.
I would get 18's intead. It is well documented by the pros that the 996 is not meant to be run on 19s. Causes bump steer. Unless a pro shop do your allignment and do some minor mods, its very hard to chase the allignment on the 19s for the 996.
Originally Posted by wross996tt
Bump steer usually means the coilovers are hitting the bump stops. Never heard of it for alignment? 19's are fine if you're not going to the track.
FWIW i had 19" wheels on my c2 with NO bump steer. i only went back to 18s because there's a better selection of track tires. there are plenty of street 19" sizes.
http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13
Originally Posted by LONGACRERACING.COM
Bump Steer is when your wheels steer themselves without input from the steering wheel. The undesirable steering is caused by bumps in the track interacting with improper length or angle of your suspension and steering linkages.
Most car builders design their cars so that the effects of bump steer are minimal. However, you must still take care to bolt on your suspension carefully so as not to create unwanted bump steer. Make sure that you are always using the correct components for a particular car. Bump steer must be designed into the car and cannot be adjusted out if improper parts are used or if pivot points are moved without considering bump steer design principles.
In order to accomplish zero bump the tie rod must fall between an imaginary line that runs from the upper ball joint through the lower ball joint and an imaginary line that runs through the upper a-arm pivot and the lower control arm pivot. In addition, the centerline of the tie rod must intersect with the instant center created by the upper a-arm and the lower control arm (See diagram below).
The instant center is an imaginary point that is created by drawing a line from the upper a-arm ball joint through the a-arm pivot where it is intersected by an imaginary line that extends from the lower ball joint through the inner control arm pivot. Where the two imaginary lines intersect is the instant center.
Sounds complicated? Really it is very simple. To achieve zero bump the front end must be designed correctly. The tie rod must travel on the same arc as the suspension when the car goes through travel. Simply matching lengths and arcs to prevent any unwanted steering of the front tires.
To exaggerate, if the tie rod were only 10" long and the suspension were 20" long then when the suspension traveled the tie rod angle would shorten much quicker than the suspension arc. In this scenario the tie rod would shorten much quicker through travel than the suspension and the car would toe in drastically over bumps. The shorter arc of the tie rod would pull on the spindle and toe it in through travel.
Bump Simplified - When designing a car, if the centerline of the outer tie rod lines up with the centerline of the lower ball joint, and the inter tie rod lines up with the lower pivot point then the length and angle of the tie rod and suspension will be the same resulting in zero bump. Most car builders design their cars in this fashion.
Most car builders design their cars so that the effects of bump steer are minimal. However, you must still take care to bolt on your suspension carefully so as not to create unwanted bump steer. Make sure that you are always using the correct components for a particular car. Bump steer must be designed into the car and cannot be adjusted out if improper parts are used or if pivot points are moved without considering bump steer design principles.
In order to accomplish zero bump the tie rod must fall between an imaginary line that runs from the upper ball joint through the lower ball joint and an imaginary line that runs through the upper a-arm pivot and the lower control arm pivot. In addition, the centerline of the tie rod must intersect with the instant center created by the upper a-arm and the lower control arm (See diagram below).
The instant center is an imaginary point that is created by drawing a line from the upper a-arm ball joint through the a-arm pivot where it is intersected by an imaginary line that extends from the lower ball joint through the inner control arm pivot. Where the two imaginary lines intersect is the instant center.
Sounds complicated? Really it is very simple. To achieve zero bump the front end must be designed correctly. The tie rod must travel on the same arc as the suspension when the car goes through travel. Simply matching lengths and arcs to prevent any unwanted steering of the front tires.
To exaggerate, if the tie rod were only 10" long and the suspension were 20" long then when the suspension traveled the tie rod angle would shorten much quicker than the suspension arc. In this scenario the tie rod would shorten much quicker through travel than the suspension and the car would toe in drastically over bumps. The shorter arc of the tie rod would pull on the spindle and toe it in through travel.
Bump Simplified - When designing a car, if the centerline of the outer tie rod lines up with the centerline of the lower ball joint, and the inter tie rod lines up with the lower pivot point then the length and angle of the tie rod and suspension will be the same resulting in zero bump. Most car builders design their cars in this fashion.
12-20-2006, 11:35 AM
#105
Drifting
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Originally Posted by karlooz
bump steer is caused by suspension geometry changes NOT going from 18" to 19" wheels. in a nutshell bump steer is controlled by the toe. as the suspension compresses toe changes occur thus changing the steering angle without changing steering wheel input.
I can confirm that I do not get bump steer with the 19"s, they feel very well planted and steering is predictable and positive on the road.
You do notice, going from 17" to 19", that the ride changes due to the lower profile, but it's not extreme or uncomfortable.
On tires, there appeared to be only 4 brands that provided 19" sizes for the wheels, so agree that choices are limited.
Seems to be the 11" rear that causes the most issues.
The Toyo's I selected have proved to be excellent, and really shine in wet weather - where they have proved to be the best tires I've had, on this and previous performance vehicles.
With such wide tires, wet weather performance is key, certainly for daily road use.
Can't comment on track tires.
Chris.