engine may be done - need some advice
So the way you can look at this problem is to see what you can get for selling your 996 with broken motor as-is and use that money as part of buying a DFI 997.2. Look at the additional money you need to add. If it were me, if I am going to get my engine rebuild, I would like to change the bores to Nikasil like the 996 GT3 engine and the older air cooled 911 engine. That bore doesn’t develop bore scoring. As far as I know the ones doing that is FSI/LN or Slakker/Hartech. Check with them the cost. So if the cost to rebuild is less than the additional money you need to add to get the used 997.2, to me is no brainer to get the M96 rebuild. You can even get the engine enlarged to 4.1L with a very stout midrange. However, if the additional money you need to add to get the used 997.2 is less than the rebuild cost, and you don’t have attachment to your 996, then get the 997.2. However, browse the Rennlist forum for the 997.2 to see what other issues it has. Every Porsche generation from the beginning has its own unique problem that mostly by now has some solution.
Sorry for the long post, I just want to share my decision making process on my issue and I am very happy with the result. My wallet on the other hand, is not too happy
While I do believe everyone should eventually let us rebuild their engine and upgrade it to how it should’ve come from the factory, I don’t believe in doing it under false pretenses. Honestly, I spend about half my time helping people diagnose issues, only to find out their shop had misdiagnosed the problem.
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The shop its at is very reputable. Other Porsche independent shops recommend this shop as well as local experts. It seems as though this may have been an "easy" diagnosis versus an in-depth figure out what exactly it may be. I'm going to inquire about the oil sample and if its not there, i'll happily drive the 1k miles to get a sample.
I've only owned the car for 6 months. i would be shocked if i put 500 miles on it so far. I checked the oil level using the dashboard gauge.
PT3 and theprf suggested the thrust bearing could be the (only?) worn bearing. Sounds feasible.
Although the amount of copper color in filter housing seems excessive for 1 bearings small thrust faces..? The shop/tech that found this is the best one to know exactly how much of this copper color metallic debris was in the filter canister and if it could be from only 1 bearings thrust faces... Pics of this debris on our forum can't show quantity, your tech knows.
Also, just not sure if the composition of the thrust face of the thrust bearing is the same as the bearings main layers with a copper base..? Some engines thrust bearings are, some aren't.
Suppose a worn out thrust bearing is better thab a rod bearing, maybe ? But , it can lead to crankshaft movement, causing damage to the engine block or crank carrier, leading to engine seizure. Wear on the thrust bearing surfaces can cause the crankshaft to move excessively, disrupting the other bearings oil film and leading to further damage/seizures. Once that thrust surface of the crank is damaged, thats it for that crank($6k), NG.
A image to show where the copper color in your oil filter canister likely came from. And how much wear it takes to get into the bearings copper layer.
Not sure of the exact composition of the oem m96 bearings, its probably similar to below pic. But at worst, the copper layer will be in the same position regardless of the other layers exact composition...
Last edited by allcool; Jul 14, 2025 at 12:33 PM.
From the replies here and speaking with my buddy, i feel a bit better about the situation. Doesn't mean that an engine rebuild isn't in my future.
From the replies here and speaking with my buddy, i feel a bit better about the situation. Doesn't mean that an engine rebuild isn't in my future.
1. No smoking
2 1 bar hot idle , 4 bar 4k rpm hot oil pressure
3 No Noise
4 good power/smooth
Now, the Headgasket is "seeping" by the white crustation seen in the Photo ..Some modern coolants have a coagulant in them that stops small seeps/leaks by forming a white crystal when it contacts air.......I would not say this is 'Ideal" but certainly can be "managed " for quite some time with carefull monitoring and top-ups......Sorta like having Diabetes......

The picture of the oil filter housing is much more concerning..All oil has metallic particles in them as part of the additives, but they are too small to be seen with the nekid eye except in a certain light can appear as a "metallic sheen" .......The "thrust bearing" can also produce these "just barely seen" gold/bronze particles from very heavy stop-n-go traffic......and since the hot oil pressure is still good, there is a good chance that this is what is being seen here ......again not Ideal, and more concerning than " Diabetes" it's more like Stage 1 Prostate Cancer ...
The good news is there appears to be " no large metallic particles" ...
My recomendation ::
Test the oil Sample for Wear Metals ::: I hope they saved a sample of the oil so you can send to a Lab for testing ...If not drive the 1k miles then do an oil sample and send to a Lab for testing ....
This will give much more indication of whats going on inside the engine....
If the AOS is leaking oil and coolant ( no pictures or details ) then replace with UAOS and never worry about that again...
Don't even think about installing an LS engine .....Just crush the car......







