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engine may be done - need some advice

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Old Jul 12, 2025 | 09:08 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by theprf
Wasn't there an issue where the crank thrust bearings wear out with the rest of the engine satisfactory?
Yes we have had few document in here and is what I was thinking of when posting my thoughts.....Lab Tests would help to shed more light on that.. ..
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 03:10 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Porschetech3

Don't even think about installing an LS engine .....Just crush the car......
Haha what’s wrong with an LS?
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 06:23 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 996love
Haha what’s wrong with an LS?

" LS " = Lacks Sex-appeal
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 07:25 AM
  #19  
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As long as it’s fast, it’s good enough for me!
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 03:21 PM
  #20  
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My 2 cents on how to approach this problem. I have similar situation where it is determined that I need a complete rebuild of my engine as my car was 120K miles and even though the problem is loose valve seat, just doing top end doesn’t make sense. I won’t consider buying another used 996 that is still has stock engine even if the IMS has been upgraded as it has been documented here that besides IMS, you might run into bore scoring that the reason is not completely clear. What is clear is that it occurs most likely to the M96 engine with Lokasil bore. Even 997.1 engine might have this issue. Not sure about 997.2 engine, what I have read of the DFI engine is that they might not have that problem (either it is still too new or really non existent, I am no expert to know which one).

So the way you can look at this problem is to see what you can get for selling your 996 with broken motor as-is and use that money as part of buying a DFI 997.2. Look at the additional money you need to add. If it were me, if I am going to get my engine rebuild, I would like to change the bores to Nikasil like the 996 GT3 engine and the older air cooled 911 engine. That bore doesn’t develop bore scoring. As far as I know the ones doing that is FSI/LN or Slakker/Hartech. Check with them the cost. So if the cost to rebuild is less than the additional money you need to add to get the used 997.2, to me is no brainer to get the M96 rebuild. You can even get the engine enlarged to 4.1L with a very stout midrange. However, if the additional money you need to add to get the used 997.2 is less than the rebuild cost, and you don’t have attachment to your 996, then get the 997.2. However, browse the Rennlist forum for the 997.2 to see what other issues it has. Every Porsche generation from the beginning has its own unique problem that mostly by now has some solution.

Sorry for the long post, I just want to share my decision making process on my issue and I am very happy with the result. My wallet on the other hand, is not too happy
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 03:43 PM
  #21  
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997.2 is a 9A1 and can still score. Less probable but we are seeing more and more of them as time passes. You need Nikasil or SUMEbore to be completely in the clear of bore scoring.
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 07:02 PM
  #22  
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What oil are you using, and at what fill level? How much are you adding between oil changes? I’d highly recommend getting a used oil analysis—it’ll give you a much clearer picture of what’s really going on inside the engine.

While I do believe everyone should eventually let us rebuild their engine and upgrade it to how it should’ve come from the factory, I don’t believe in doing it under false pretenses. Honestly, I spend about half my time helping people diagnose issues, only to find out their shop had misdiagnosed the problem.
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Old Jul 14, 2025 | 08:40 AM
  #23  
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It's probably too late for an oil analysis. I would have the car towed to another shop (with experience) and get a second opinion.
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Old Jul 14, 2025 | 11:56 AM
  #24  
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I appreciate everyone's responses. Maybe its not as bad as it seems?

The shop its at is very reputable. Other Porsche independent shops recommend this shop as well as local experts. It seems as though this may have been an "easy" diagnosis versus an in-depth figure out what exactly it may be. I'm going to inquire about the oil sample and if its not there, i'll happily drive the 1k miles to get a sample.

I've only owned the car for 6 months. i would be shocked if i put 500 miles on it so far. I checked the oil level using the dashboard gauge.
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Old Jul 14, 2025 | 12:18 PM
  #25  
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Thanks for answering those questions. Its great you've got no intermix, no engine noise, no smoke, and it runs fine. Thats really good signs.

PT3 and theprf suggested the thrust bearing could be the (only?) worn bearing. Sounds feasible.

Although the amount of copper color in filter housing seems excessive for 1 bearings small thrust faces..? The shop/tech that found this is the best one to know exactly how much of this copper color metallic debris was in the filter canister and if it could be from only 1 bearings thrust faces... Pics of this debris on our forum can't show quantity, your tech knows.
Also, just not sure if the composition of the thrust face of the thrust bearing is the same as the bearings main layers with a copper base..? Some engines thrust bearings are, some aren't.

Suppose a worn out thrust bearing is better thab a rod bearing, maybe ? But , it can lead to crankshaft movement, causing damage to the engine block or crank carrier, leading to engine seizure. Wear on the thrust bearing surfaces can cause the crankshaft to move excessively, disrupting the other bearings oil film and leading to further damage/seizures. Once that thrust surface of the crank is damaged, thats it for that crank($6k), NG.

A image to show where the copper color in your oil filter canister likely came from. And how much wear it takes to get into the bearings copper layer.

Not sure of the exact composition of the oem m96 bearings, its probably similar to below pic. But at worst, the copper layer will be in the same position regardless of the other layers exact composition...



Last edited by allcool; Jul 14, 2025 at 12:33 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2025 | 03:10 PM
  #26  
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I would definitely do an oil change and oil analysis after 1,000 miles or so.
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 11:44 AM
  #27  
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If it was for a serious medical condition you would get a second opinion. I think it applies to cars too, especially if the worst case is 25K job. I had a similar experience with mine almost 6 years ago when I bought it, I got a second opinion, from an even more qualified Porsche mechanic and the original suspected issue was not the problem. I went forward with the work most will suggest you get done. I now have a much more complete record of all the work done to my car and I have enjoyed it for the last 6 years. The smiles per mile, are still there. Good luck with what ever direction you go with.
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Old Jul 21, 2025 | 03:12 PM
  #28  
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So i spoke with a buddy of mine who is deep into profession Porsche racing. We have a game plan to run this new oil for 1000 miles and get it tested. Based on pictures, one suspected theory of the head gasket "problem" is that the o-rings on the oil cooler are leaking a little and dripped down to the head making it appear that its in the head area.

From the replies here and speaking with my buddy, i feel a bit better about the situation. Doesn't mean that an engine rebuild isn't in my future.
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Old Jul 21, 2025 | 03:38 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by COS996
So i spoke with a buddy of mine who is deep into profession Porsche racing. We have a game plan to run this new oil for 1000 miles and get it tested. Based on pictures, one suspected theory of the head gasket "problem" is that the o-rings on the oil cooler are leaking a little and dripped down to the head making it appear that its in the head area.

From the replies here and speaking with my buddy, i feel a bit better about the situation. Doesn't mean that an engine rebuild isn't in my future.
Originally Posted by Porschetech3
Lets take a more Scientific look at this :::

1. No smoking

2 1 bar hot idle , 4 bar 4k rpm hot oil pressure

3 No Noise

4 good power/smooth

Now, the Headgasket is "seeping" by the white crustation seen in the Photo ..Some modern coolants have a coagulant in them that stops small seeps/leaks by forming a white crystal when it contacts air.......I would not say this is 'Ideal" but certainly can be "managed " for quite some time with carefull monitoring and top-ups......Sorta like having Diabetes......

The picture of the oil filter housing is much more concerning..All oil has metallic particles in them as part of the additives, but they are too small to be seen with the nekid eye except in a certain light can appear as a "metallic sheen" .......The "thrust bearing" can also produce these "just barely seen" gold/bronze particles from very heavy stop-n-go traffic......and since the hot oil pressure is still good, there is a good chance that this is what is being seen here ......again not Ideal, and more concerning than " Diabetes" it's more like Stage 1 Prostate Cancer ...

The good news is there appears to be " no large metallic particles" ...

My recomendation ::

Test the oil Sample for Wear Metals ::: I hope they saved a sample of the oil so you can send to a Lab for testing ...If not drive the 1k miles then do an oil sample and send to a Lab for testing ....

This will give much more indication of whats going on inside the engine....

If the AOS is leaking oil and coolant ( no pictures or details ) then replace with UAOS and never worry about that again...

Don't even think about installing an LS engine .....Just crush the car......
Great minds think alike !!!
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