So, got car out of storage and the fob wouldn’t talk to the car anymore, so no remote opening or frunk/trunk open. Won’t communicate with alarm system yada yada. Switched battery, flipped it upside down, tried everything I’ve read online to re sync, no dice (02 boxster S).

Everything I’ve read said take it to the dealer. Grudgingly made the appointment with sunset, who have been awful since right before the pandemic. Get here and I’m told that unless I have a code I need a new fob. Huh. So, $525 to have a fob that works. Not sure it was worth that much.

Is this corrrect?

btw I know this is the 996 forum…I used to have one and this is the more active forum…

 

Yes that is correct.. There is a 10 digit code that comes with each key FOB, without that code there is nothing a Dealer can do, even with PIWIS........

 

For what it's worth. My magically stopped one day. I too went to dealer and learned about thr $500 key. Opted to not get it. Then it starting working again a month later. No clue why. Then it stops. Then it works. Still no clue why. But not out $500.

 

lmfao. May the fates ever blow your way 😆

 

Unfortunately, there is no free lunch or get out of jail free option with Porsche keyfobs. In all fairness, my original 25 year old Porsche keys still open and start the '99 996, but the electronic board that is responsible for locking and unlocking the doors is toast. The only remedy is a new fob from the dealership at $500. I wish there were cheaper options. Even the best locksmith in our area can't replicate these keyfobs.

My 1997 Ford F150 only costs me $2 for a replacement key at Walmart. My father's 2004 F150 has the newer transponder keys. Cost me $8 at Ace Hardware to cut the blade and $50 to match the new transponder to the truck. I ordered two "clickers" (i.e. old school fobs for locking and unlocking) on Amazon for the 2004 F150 for only $10 and was able to program to the truck myself. I wish I could say the same for modern Euro cars with fancy keyfobs.

 

There is an aftermarket fob that taps into the DME and replicates the functions. I ordered one but after removing the driver's seat and seeing the 757,000 tiny wires in the bundle going into the DME I decided I didn't have the testicular fortitude to find the correct wires and tap into them.

 

For a while the Carrera GT keyhead was cheaper than a standard 996 head, all though not by much, seems to not be the case now. I had replaced one failed head with a GT head a few years back, then two years ago that one also failed on me, which I was not very amused about. What sucks is since only the driver door has the physical key lock, if you just say screw it and don't keep at least one working fob you run a risk of getting totally locked out of the car if that single point has a problem.

Wasn't aware there was any aftermarket options, all though wire surgery is no fun, what's the name of it?

 

I make it a point to use my spare key every month or so, so I have all keys working and communicating

 

https://www.bergvillfx.com/products/t-lock-keylessentry

 

Five years with no fob. Sure it would be nice. But I'd rather light $500 on fire than a pay a dealer to make a key for a 25 year old car.

 

Wow, honestly, the t lock does not look bad at all and I am strongly tempted as its half the price of a single replacement fob, thanks for bringing this up as I don't think I'd ever have found it otherwise lol. Just to throw more info into the pile on this thread, there was a user post in here last year where they had dug into the immobilizer more, they put together some good info on the git link below but hadn't figured out how to recover the programming code out of a working fob, doesn't seem like there's been progress since.

https://github.com/bdm310/996-Immobilizer

 

If you haven't seen it, here is a link to the Installation Guide for the T-Lock. I was overwhelmed when I saw how many wires were in the bundle. It looks a lot easier in the PDF file.

 

Yea, I took a look, I have coop's oil temp gauge which required a tap in the DME loom behind the back seat, so not only deal with all the wires but also cram yourself into the back, with this you can at least take the seat out and take your time looking at everything lol. I'm still not in love with tapping wires since you're punching through insulation and touching the copper, obviously its generally fine, but any chance to introduce electrical gremlins is no fun also good luck asking a shop to help track down random electrical stuff if you've done taps in the area. I'd be curious if its easy to source the connector used on the immobilizer to make a pass through connection which would be less disruptive.

 

Too much heartache and financial loss associated with malfunctioning or damaged immobilizers in these cars to risk it IMHO. I'd say, just bite the bullet and buy the darn keyfob from your local Porsche dealership.

 

Former 996 owner / current 986 owner.

This exact thing happened to me the other day. Went on a Sunday drive to a local cars and coffee event, came home, and the key stopped working. Had to get my other key. This isn't the first time it's happened. All of a sudden, it works. I don't understand why or how this happens.