DBJoe996

You're not holding your mouth right...

strathconaman

I dropped my fob this spring and it works no more.

Does the T-Lock work with the alarm? When I open the door with the key, I have to put the key in the ignition or the alarm goes off. Does the T-lock disable the alarm?

dsbl

I don't have to rush to the ignition when unlocking with the key, so you may have a different issue there. The unit is tapping pin 35 (door lock cylinder close) and 15 (unprime door) according to the wiring diagram in the workshop manual.

wyovino

I wish it was just a plug and play harness that goes between the existing connector and the DME. That would be easy.

ZuffenZeus

That's what I would expect... and, a solid guarantee that it wouldn’t do any harm the alarm module.

SoCal911t

Those ScotchLoc connectors are a deal breaker for me. Whether I see them in some type of 'kit' or something wired in a car on BaT, I'm not touching it.

GarrettSR5

Same. It's such a hack way to wire something

Einsteiger

Where would said code be? scribbled on a business card tucked into the owners manual? Taped to the underside of the dash? Engraved on the chassis somewhere?

I have a '99 996 and both fobs were a disaster when I got them. Changing batteries did nothing, so I know its the internal electronics. I'm not suffering without the remote lock; I just use the key itself.

Curious about the mystery code, though.

Porschetech3

The 10 digit codes for each key FOB is for "security" and is kept secret and is not available..

A new replacement key FOB will come with a paper tag with the new unique 10 digit code used to program it to the car using PIWIS...after the new replacement FOB has been programmed to the car what happens to the paper tag varies...but it can get thrown away, or attached to the repair order and put in the Dealership file ,or stapled to the owners manual for future use...there is no Official set procedure for the 10 digit code, but it is a Security issue...

jyoteen

I'll be honest. I rather just not lock the doors. If they want to steal a 25 year old car, so be it. They stil have to deal with the immobilizer handshake with the RFID pill to start the car.

That said, many years ago, when one of my keys had the circuit board stop functioning, I got 3 new keyfobs and had them coded and 2 remain in envelopes. I don't lock the car when it's in the garage.

dsbl

Its a mess, these fobs are almost 30 year old tech at this point, they probably use some flavor of keeloq and probably could fall to some of the keeloq attacks which were publicized in the late 2000s, best case scenario would be that the fob's original code could be recovered through either a side channel or crypto weakness (not just dumping it from the fob memory) after recording a bunch of its transmissions. This may help some who have "working" fobs which are out of sync and could just be re-synced, but the overall pool of used keyfobs for sale isn't going to be large enough to make this a durable cheap source of replacements. If the immobilizer firmware can be dumped and reversed it could be possible to build a diy fob which could correctly pair to the immobilizer, but anyone trying to sell these at any scale would need to clear them through the FCC and maybe have Porsche be unhappy with them. This is all just for the remote unlocking component, the rfid pill for starting the car should basically be fine forever and you can transfer it from keyhead to keyhead.

The tlock approach of strapping on an entire standalone box to do the remote unlock part seems like the only path to cheap fobs, but the wire splicing does not spark joy. A cool product would be a watertight box for the immobilizer which terminates the connections outside of the box and passes them to the immobilizer so you don't have to play the sealant game, and also integrates a standalone fob receiver.