FlattestSix

Hey all, I've finally come across a lovely, early build 996. She's been well taken care of from the paperwork and currently has 70k miles.

I'm seriously considering it, but wanted to find about IMS on these early builds. The seller told me that these early ones had a different, dual bearings setup that statistically didn't have the failure rate of the later setup. Would love to get some honest thoughts, feedback from this group.

Thanks!

168glhs1986

No IMS issue on pre 9/98 911 builds. I mean anything can happen but if I were in the market for an early build 996, the IMS would be way down on the list of my concerns.

Always buy the seller with classic cars. Some dealers are trust worthy but the majority of the better cars are going to be sold by PCA members or enthusiasts. I found my early build 996 by a stroke of luck. It was actually his first and last Porsche ever, I got lucky. But I did ask the following...

1) Accident history
2) original paint?
3) Condition of paint and interior
4) where was the car born? Snow belt, have a closer look
5) If you were going to keep the car and had an unlimited budget to spend, what would be the first thing you would do. This trips up everyone and you usually get really telling answers as to what the car needs NOW!

Happy hunting. Early builds are just built differently. Hopefully you can test drive it, meet the seller etc, before paying for it.

FlattestSix

Thanks so much @168glhs1986 - I'm planning on driving up to check it out and test drive it in a week. Those are great questions, especially the last one.

The build date I believe is 4/98. The carfax is pretty well detailed, and the seller has given me the contact info of the mechanic he's been using. The car does originally come from NY and spent some time in VA so I'm sure its seen snow. Anything specific you'd recommend to check for or discuss with the mechanic?

GC996

Check out the two (2) IMS admin threads (stickies) for more info. You can't miss them in blue on top of all the daily 996 threads.

FlattestSix

Thanks guys. Is there a good reference or thread where I could get some feedback on whether the asking price is fair?

GC996

Easiest to find data is to look on BAT.

But the first thing I would do is get every service record on the car to see what was done and when, as well as identify what wasnt done. If it was properly serviced throughout its life then I would go to the next steps below which will cost you money.

Then I would talk to the indy about the car and organize
1. Oil test
2. PPI
3. Have the sump dropped to see what's in it, review the oil filter, and have the bores scoped from the sump.

Price depends on its condition as well as what still needs to be replaced. The more the previous owner has done to service and refresh the car, the more its worth. The less that's been done, the less it's worth because you will have to foot the bill.

philbert996

I’ll say yes and no.
The likelihood of a dual row IMS failing on an early build is very low.
But do you want to take that chance?
It is a wear item on an engine that’s 25 years old now.

Personally, I was more concerned about bore scoring on my early ‘99.
So I had it go through the IMS Solution pre-qualification to make sure there was no bore scoring, the engine was solid and worth investing in.
Once it passed I had the solution installed so I never had to worry about the IMS bearing again.
Then had all the deferred maintenance most 996s need:
AOS
Fuel injectors
Spark plugs and coil packs
Water pump
Fuel filter
Flushed ALL fluids

And the “while you’re in there”:
Clutch
Flywheel
RMS
Low temp thermostat
Timing chain tensioners

Check the records to see if any of those were replaced recently

168glhs1986

I would meet at the mechanics shop. When the car is there you usually know how familiar the mechanic is with the car or maybe it was ...yeah the only thing I did was change the oil...or you might get. Yes I remember this car, the owner had an open check book etc. Usually when the car is in front of the mechanic that will tell you alot about how they feel about your car.

In my case, my mechanic reminds me often, to give him first crack at my early build if I ever go to sell. He is a very well respected mechanic and tells me what he thinks of my car. Anyway it's not about me...

Schedule to meet at the mechanics shop and have him put it on the lift and give you a walk around of all the wear items underneath. Give the mechanic $100 bucks for his time and then take it for a spin. If you want to move forward with a PPI I would probably schedule it with another shop.

I don't always PPI a car either. I can tell most of what I need to know from a test drive, info gathering from owner, walk around with mechanic.

Investing in an early build 996 is worth it, if the paint / body and interior are in great condition. Mechanicals are easy.

FlattestSix

Thanks! What does a PPI run these days, ballpark?

With regard to the paint, the seller sent me two videos, and was very upfront about small rock chips on the hood. The interior looks really well kept. Happy to post the video of the walkaround here if folks would be willing to provide their feedback.

996-CAB

You are new here. You will get more feedback than you bargained for. We love looking at videos and pictures!

FlattestSix

Ha! Great. Here's a few photos and videos of the car.

GC996

Post it. We all love pictures and videos.

As long as the paint is in good shape, chips are a fact of life. Dr. Color Chip works wonders. Especially if you have a good detail guy or the skills to blend it in w/ minor wetsanding.

Leather dye is easy with the Seat Doctor.

Key is your engine. Every shop is different on what they charge. Especially if you have the sump dropped and a borescope done. Start with the Porsche indy that serviced the car and ask.

Remember, the more refresh work the previous owner has done, the less out of pocket expense you will have.

FlattestSix

I pulled the Carfax. Besides the standard routine stuff like oil changes, brake fluid flush, etc. The following has been done:
AT 52k miles
- Brake uid ushed/changed - Front brake pads replaced
- Vehicle washed/detailed
- Oil pan gasket replaced
- Front brake rotor(s) replaced
- Engine mount(s) replaced
- Transmission mount(s) replaced
- Stabilizer bar links replaced
- Water separator replaced
- Brake uid ushed/changed

The new owner also replaced the Mass airflow sensor and replaced the radiator.

motoo344

I have an ocean blue metallic 99. Haven't had many issues, I did replace my IMSB but that was mainly because I needed to do the clutch, the leaking RMS, and an air oil separator. Made sense to do it all at once since the trans needs to come out anyway. There wasn't any metal in my filter or oil on my PPI. Mine had around 50k miles when I bought it.

FlattestSix

Do you guys recommend having a Porsche dealership do the PPI or an independent shop that handles Porsches?