steam_mill

So, after seeing a number of threads regarding cranking to circulate/build oil pressure for the first season start, I failed miserably....
Car had not been starter in 6 months. Was on a tender the whole time.

Since I had just done an oil change, I wanted to circulate the oil.

My understanding was to crank the car and then turn the key to off.

I did that. I was ready to turn the key back, but before I could to that, the car fired and caught. I let it run. I have only ever experience a slightly delayed start, in other words a full crank when I had disconnected a fuel line to change out the expansion tank. The car starts really, really fast. I have honda atv that does the same thing. Just touch the start button and it catches right away.

I have never had a car that catches and fires this quickly.

Car is an '03, just under 50K miles. Original starter, battery is a Porsche (Bosch) battery.

I'm not too worried, more curious than anything else on how to do this....

Or, do you turn the key back to off even if it appears to have fired?

GC996

Happens. Wish I could say every time I went thru the exercise it was perfection. It wasn't. Just wanted to get things moving a little before hand.

jandackson

The technique, done properly, is to allow the engine to fire and immediately shut it off. Repeat until oil pressure is built up.

Dharn55

When I rebuilt my engine I disconnected the fuel pump and turned over the engine until it showed some pressure then reconnected the fuel pump and started the engine. This would be easy to do for the first start up on the season. Then again, I have had my car for 23 years and never did this unless I had the engine out for repairs.

wdb

I typically pull the spark plugs if I'm going to crank an engine for any length of time. I get that that is impractical with these cars. Not sure what I'd do instead.

steam_mill

I've never attempted this before, probably won't try again either. Car started perfectly, no weird noises, Oil pressure immediately hit 5 bar like it normally does on startup. Showed 14V on charge. Is there really a difference in a car sitting for 6 days or 6 months? Oil must be fully drained to the pan after just a couple days.

4Driver4

Having torn down many engines, I can tell you that any pre-oiling for a first start of the season is completely unnecessary.

GC996

Interesting video using opel engine and clear glass.

Jupp

If the car stands for half a year, I pull the fuel pump fuse crank it a few times. Fuse back in and there you go

Marv

It's fine. Just drive it.

As 4driver4 said, not necessary.

pdxmotorhead

When I put my new motor in Flat 6 had me crank till it fired, and immediately turn off, took 3 times, it got about 2 bar on the second crank, 5 on the 3rd.

Seemed like a sensible action for a brand new motor. I'd just watch the gauge on a first crank of season and kill it if it doesn't pop up right away.

Mike Murphy

My 99 starts up and hits 2,000 or even 2,500 RPMs immediately. The longer it sits, the higher the RPM. PORSCHE did this for a reason, and it’s related to oil pressure. I would not build oil pressure with the starter.

Formerly996fried

Most of my old vehicles had carburetors with auto or manual chokes, so do you think that perhaps this part is due to having the computer direct more fuel to warm up the engine and cats which is why yours revs at two grand or beyond...I usually turn it over a few times before I let it fire up.....I suppose I'm just old school....as I traded my old Solexes in for Webers on all of my 356's.....although I drive a 12/99 996, I do miss the simplicity of those old bathtubs.....sigh.....

hardtailer

No definitely not. The M96 with throttle cable only has the idle control valve (ICV) as an ECU-controlled means to let air into the intake as the throttle plate is shut at idle/foot off the throttle pedal.
During cranking the ICV is fully open to ease (or allow at all) for the engine to take in enough air to go from cranking to starting and running. As soon as it runs the ecu goes from cranking/starting into idling where it then controls idle rpm to 850rpm or so.
That short rise in rpm after bursts into life will not heat the cats at all as it duration is far too short for that.

Cranking and stopping before it starts only to crank again has no benefit at all on a electronically fuel injected combustion engine. If anything you increase the chance of flooding it and worst case you end up with raw fuel in your cats and dilute your oil.

Mike Murphy

I re-read my post, and I think I mislead what’s happening. The jump to 2,000 or 2,500 RPM only lasts for one second. I believe Porsche designed the engine to do this to ensure oil gets delivered to as many galleys as possible, to prevent chain slap for the tensioners, and also because the oil pump sits well above the oil level and needs a good kick in the pants upon cold start. Warm restarts don’t do this. Short restarts don’t do this. I believe the ECU timer adjust the peak cold start RPM. Is the car has sat for a week or more, it’s the highest.