When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am looking at MY99 996.1 with 33k on the clock. Lucky enough to finally find a car I could see service records for most of the history. I have however read two things in postings I am wanting to see if anyone can verify. I have read pre 2000 996 has a dual IMS bearing and less prone to failure. The second is the 3.4 engine is not prone to bore scoring. Not having found much more than postings on social media making these claims l was hoping someone may have more information on this. Appreciate any insight anyone can provide.
Be ready for many on this board to tell you you'll need to spend $500-$1k on this car before you buy it to make sure you should buy it, then have another $10k ready for all the things you'll need to do after you buy it.
Data has shown that cars with a dual row are less prone to failure. I don't think the bore scoring has been proven to be any more or less prevalent.
Edit: I from previous posts you have already done the PPI thing with another car without good results. If you were willing to spend the money on the first one I can't see why you wouldn't on the next one.
While it's true that the dual row IMS bearing used in the 1999/2000 model years is more robust and less prone to failure than the single row used in the 2001 to 2004 models, it is still a wear item and should be replaced at the same time as the clutch, around 60k miles. Also, a Pre-Purchase Inspection is highly recommended and would include inspection of the bores for any signs of scoring. Considering the consequences (read $$$) of bore scoring, due diligence is warranted. Best of luck with your buy, sounds like a strong candidate!
While it's true that the dual row IMS bearing used in the 1999/2000 model years is more robust and less prone to failure than the single row used in the 2001 to 2004 models, it is still a wear item and should be replaced at the same time as the clutch, around 60k miles. Also, a Pre-Purchase Inspection is highly recommended and would include inspection of the bores for any signs of scoring. Considering the consequences (read $$$) of bore scoring, due diligence is warranted. Best of luck with your buy, sounds like a strong candidate!
Thanks Weazer, yeah this is my third car I have looked at. Others were dropped, one for bore scoring on a 2005 in Scottsdale and the other was ticking pretty loudly and the pipes looked pretty black that I found in Dallas. I've spent more on PPIs then I care to admit at this point. Finally found a local car, not many where I am in eastern Iowa that I found. I am getting ready to send this one out for a PPI as soon as weather permits. The interior trim is all I have found that needs work, it has the wood trim option and most of it has cracked or peeled. Appreciate the input and information on the IMS.
Be ready for many on this board to tell you you'll need to spend $500-$1k on this car before you buy it to make sure you should buy it, then have another $10k ready for all the things you'll need to do after you buy it.
Data has shown that cars with a dual row are less prone to failure. I don't think the bore scoring has been proven to be any more or less prevalent.
Edit: I from previous posts you have already done the PPI thing with another car without good results. If you were willing to spend the money on the first one I can't see why you wouldn't on the next one.
Appreciate the feedback hbdunn. Yeah, I have been spending on the PPI and glad I did. Found scoring on a 2005 and one I just happened to be in Dallas and went and looked at it. Engine was ticking pretty loudly and the left pipe was pretty black so I just decided not to spend the money on the PPI for that one. This one as soon as the weather clears I'll send it out for a PPI. I spoke with one mechanic this morning who worked on the car as far back as 2000 and had the records from replacing the RMS and IMS seal on it.
Thanks for the info on the IMS. I couldn't understand why the 3.4 would be less prone, temps are what the temps are and with all the ideas on why the scoring happens I couldn't see why the slightly smaller engine would make a difference. But I am no mechanic so why I decided to go to the boards and see what those with more knowledge had to say.
Thanks again and much appreciate the info. I just want to make sure I have done everything I can to ensure I am getting as solid of a car as I can.
Thanks for the info on the IMS. I couldn't understand why the 3.4 would be less prone, temps are what the temps are and with all the ideas on why the scoring happens I couldn't see why the slightly smaller engine would make a difference. But I am no mechanic so why I decided to go to the boards and see what those with more knowledge had to say.
Rod length to stroke ratio is easier on the bores of a 3.4 than that on a 3.6 is one reason.
Thanks for the info on the IMS. I couldn't understand why the 3.4 would be less prone, temps are what the temps are and with all the ideas on why the scoring happens I couldn't see why the slightly smaller engine would make a difference. But I am no mechanic so why I decided to go to the boards and see what those with more knowledge had to say.
Thanks again and much appreciate the info. I just want to make sure I have done everything I can to ensure I am getting as solid of a car as I can.
99's will have dual row, MY00 is when the change happened, earlier likely to have dual but I think early/mid '00 build is when it could be either dual or single. Check the build date on the door sticker.
Bore scoring less prone on the 3.4L, had a different cylinder liner that was changed going into the 3.6L (Alusil vs Lokasil I believe). 3.4L as noted aren't invincible, but failure rate is much smaller.
…..then have another $10k ready for all the things you'll need to do after you buy it..
Actually I recommend and did $7k+ in parts on preventive maintenance.
You can add a few thousand for labor if you’re having a shop do the work.
Originally Posted by Redpoint
The interior trim is all I have found that needs work, it has the wood trim option and most of it has cracked or peeled.
You might want to do some research on replacing/repairing wood trim.
Don’t have it, so I have no first hand experience dealing with it.
But everything I’ve read seems like it’s difficult problem to deal with.
Bore scoring less prone on the 3.4L, had a different cylinder liner that was changed going into the 3.6L (Alusil vs Lokasil I believe). 3.4L as noted aren't invincible, but failure rate is much smaller.
Always good to plan for any fixes when buying a car. Simple answer is yes these things are less common on the 3.4 but it still happens. If a PPI checks out then its basically just bad luck if it happens at some point.
If you buy a 996 I know a guy that knows a guy that has a connection with another guy that sells a super special mix of, well you really cant call it oil but it acts like it
It will save your 996 poorly designed engine
Well at least that what I have heard
For life of me I dont why someone would consider buying a 996, ever
But if you do, start removing all the good parts that havent yet failed and replace them immediately
Lots of great threads on where to start on the list
But if you do, start removing all the good parts that havent yet failed and replace them immediately
Why would anyone do that?
The IMS bearing, AOS and water pump have been working great for last 23 years.
Preventive maintenance is a scam, just replace that stuff when it breaks.
Plus you can use that money for some wider wheels and a big wing.
And don’t buy into that “premium” gas conspiracy either.
Porsche's Top 5 Most Questionable Naming Decisions
Slideshow: For a company obsessed with engineering precision, Porsche has occasionally named its cars in ways that left even loyal enthusiasts scratching their heads.
Pogea Racing's 964 Porsche 911 Reimagination Stands Out in a Crowded Field
Slideshow: Pogea Racing's latest Porsche 964 project blends carbon-fiber construction, modern chassis upgrades, and up to 500 horsepower while keeping the air-cooled 911 experience firmly analog.
Talos Takes Your 991 Porsche 911 GT3 to the Next Level for a Cool $1.13 Million
Slideshow: Talos Vehicles has transformed the Porsche 911 GT3 RS into a carbon-bodied, race-inspired machine that costs well over $1 million before the donor car is even included.
9 Vehicles Porsche Helped Engineer that Aren't Porsches
Slideshow: Long before engineering consulting became trendy, Porsche was quietly helping other automakers build everything from supercars to economy hatchbacks.
9 Features and Characteristics That Only Porsche People Understand
Slideshow: Some brands build cars. Porsche builds traditions, obsessions, and a few habits that stopped making sense decades ago but somehow became part of the charm.