My ‘01 C2 has been sitting in my garage since last November, charging on a CTEK battery maintainer, with Stabil in the tank. My question is: are there any recommended procedures for starting her up again? I’ve read that some folks remove a relay to allow the engine to crank but not start to allow oil circulate before starting.

Normally I head out on a 30 minute highway trip right after starting to allow the motor to come up to temp. Does that still apply in this case?

Thanks!

 

Cranking over the motor will not bring up the oil pressure. From what I have read, start the motor and then shut if off. Do this three times, then go for a drive.

 

Start the car and drive it.

 

This.
I've torn down engines that have sat for years and found plenty of oil on all the cam and crank journals. Don't overthink this; just hit the key.

 

Just make sure you drive it till all the temps are up to spec as well the brakes
the heat helps burn off the condensation

 

A cold start that’s been a long time between starts will cause the DME to spike the engine to nearly 2,000 RPM immediately by itself. It does this to make sure oil pressure is built up asap.

Agree, just turn the key and drive off as soon as you can, keeping revs between 2000-3000 until warm. I drive like this on all cold starts to warm up the car.

 

I just did this with my 2000 C2. Remove all mouse deterrents. Start and drive and have fun.

 

I change the oil, drive it around a little, some stable in the tank, and then put it away. Early springtime, I change the tires as I have a second set that I keep in the house and after installing them, I usually crank it over a few clicks without the full pump relay, making sure everything turns, then install it and fire it up, and drive it carefully without exceeding three grand and drive for some miles until it is good and warmed up.....replace the oil and filter. When I had my old 356 and 912, I used to pull the plugs squirt some oil vapor, turn the motor over by hand a number of times, fire it up check the timing with a light, and drive off into the sunset.....I am showing my age here....those were the days before having California warning labels to explain the dangers of plastic bags or drinking windshield washer fluid. However, if my thought process for starting my 996 is wrong, I'll consider the advice.......

 

I think Jake Raby has said not to pull the fuse because the starter motor cannot spin the engine fast enough to generate sufficient oil pressure on this engine.

 

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Well, I don't pull the fuse, however, I just want to make sure the belts and critters haven't gotten inside or chewed something, so turning it over is not for oil pressure......I can only see so far into the engine area as it is. I haven't had any problems since building a new garage just for the 996 but these things can find a way. Last year the cat caught over twenty-three chipmunks and a couple of dozen field mice and the other good news was that "Bob the Bear" didn't break into the garage either.

 

Am I to understand you change the oil before storage and then change it again after your first drive of the spring?

 

Yes, after I drive it around for a while to eliminate the condensation from sitting around for less than three months, check it again and make a determination to change or drive it for another couple of months. Sure it is the death knell to engines to sit around, but having to drive around in salt/calcium partly plowed roads with tree branches hidden under snow would be worse. One year my old 912 suffered a hit and run which required a new front pan, suspension pieces, and sheet metal. This was due to somebody driving over the limits of adhesion. I still harbor some resentment and wish the person would go and fornicate in a self-abusive manner......if you know what I mean!

 

It’s interesting that I’ve heard condensation can accumulate for a stored engine that never runs. And I thought water was all from combustion, but now I wonder. And it makes sense. There’s water in air, and the engine is not sealed. Temp changes affect humidity and such.

 

Just that! It was 4 months not 4 years.

 

Last spring I set the air pressure in the tires, disconnected the battery tender, placed the rubber cover over the tender wire harness that is permanently attached to the battery, and started the car. If fired up as if I drove it the day before, not 4 months before. Oil pressure came up immediately. I took the car out of the garage and went for a drive. The oil was fresh, as was the filter, so no need to drain 8 quarts of oil out just because it sat for a few months.

This spring I will do the exact same procedure. The 996 paranoia has gotten to all of us!