When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Koni actives only increase ride height when the dampers they replaced were severely worn out and had lost their gas pressure (stock ones are also twin tube gas (low) pressurized).
Have you had the polyurethane bump stops replaced too?
They wear and worn ones have a significant impact on handling and how supported either end of the car feels when cornering.
Don't fit lowering springs thinking it will solve your issue as it is not the stock springs that cause what you are experiencing.
Was the car sitting on its wheels when the rear bottom damper bolts were tightened? It around have been.
HTH.
Koni actives only increase ride height when the dampers they replaced were severely worn out and had lost their gas pressure (stock ones are also twin tube gas (low) pressurized).
Have you had the polyurethane bump stops replaced too?
They wear and worn ones have a significant impact on handling and how supported either end of the car feels when cornering.
Don't fit lowering springs thinking it will solve your issue as it is not the stock springs that cause what you are experiencing.
Was the car sitting on its wheels when the rear bottom damper bolts were tightened? It should have been.
Measure front and rear ride height and compare to factory specs. Get it set to spec by making sure you run the right spring pads.
HTH.
Lowered the pressured. Ended up for now with 34 front, 38 rear.
The front end DID have more grip now, but I can tell its understeering in short tight higher speed sweepers and its my outside front wheel losing grip.
In a straight, if I jerk the car side to side it just feels like its a little floppy jerking left and right. Not tight.
In those sweepers, it feels like the steering doesn't quick get harder in effort at the max, kind of communicating where my limits are and that I'm gonna break.
It's that floppiness that bothers me more than anything. That's what makes me wonder if it's changing the springs and lowering the center of gravity that might help more than sways?
So, I did replace the bump stops with new ones. I replaced EACH AND EVERY suspension-related part.
The first shop told me after-the-fact that suspension was not tightened under load.
I told this to a 2nd shop, which specifically is a Porsche racing mechanic, and they told me that some bolts had been loose and not done right.
After the 2nd shop it got a lot less floppy, however, I'll repeat what I just put below.
I just took it out after lowering the tire pressure to 38 year, 34 front. The front end DID have more grip now, but I can tell its understeering in short tight higher speed sweepers and its my outside front wheel losing grip. In a straight, if I jerk the car side to side it just feels like its a little floppy jerking left and right. Not tight. The steering lacks weight as it moves side to side. It doesnt get tight. Feels a little disconcerting (though maybe I'm just used to electric power steering in other cars where the effort is artificially maintained?!? I was driving electrics for the last 6 years, and had my Boxster 10+ years ago.)
In those sweepers, it feels like the steering doesn't quite get harder in effort at the max, kind of communicating where my limits are and that I'm gonna break.
Im going ask a silly question do you know the history on your car was it ever involved in an accident that will cause numerous suspension issues if not straight
a light front in a 996 can be dialed out or better
would weigh down the front trunk and see if adding weight helps
Not a silly question. I've only owned the car for 7mos. It was claimed to have no accidents. I purchased it on consignment through an indy German mechanic who'd serviced the car for the last 2 owners. The CarFax is clean. I've not seen any indicators of an accident. When I removed the left rear headlight there is what looks like some slightly cracked metal (it looks like a thin welded on piece, not the body itself) that MAYBE could have buckled in some sort of rear accident but I'm not seeing any indications from any of the mechanics who've worked on it.
I did remove the spare front tire/wheel from the frunk recently but that has not seemed to change anything. Not sure that adding gross weight for no reason should be a solution here.
It's hard to judge what you're feeling cause its hard to know how hard another dude pushes on the street. In my option, your setup is one for cruising, not pushing. The tire is skinny, not very sticky, carrying a lot of weight and under hard cornering, probably smoking the outside of the tire.
Think about putting at least another half degree of camber in the front if you want to push hard on the street and have a setup that inspires confidence in my opinion, it would make a big difference.
Try taking some chalk and marking the sidewall of the tire at the wear marker. Go for a drive and see how far you're leaning the tire on to the sidewall. If you're removing most of the chalk, you don't have enough camber for what you're trying to do. You can mess with pressure to try to improve but it's a band aid.
Arcangely2k - I’m no track rat, but I’ve spent several years fiddling with two different 996’s and various parts combos, along with the associated suspension research. Some tires, springs and dampers are just horrible together.
I think your spring rates are a mismatch for your Koni’s. I also think your toe numbers are way off. The ride height from the photo appears very high. I don’t think a rear sway change will do what you need with the current toe, ride height, rake. A quick check of your rear ride height: floor to center of arch should not be more than 26 1/2” or 670mm for a ballpark US stock spec. An RoW M030 spring set would probably suit your needs. Note: 996 understeer always more notable than Boxster or Cayman all the time.
A set of good coilovers and sway bars can fix most of the problems for street driving and canyon carving by providing flexibility in set up adjustability. In the grand scheme of things, they are probably alot cheaper than other options with alot less headaches once you realize that you can adjust them any way you want to accomplish what you want.
No. That was my other thought. Would avoid having to re-align. But my question is, would it really make the steering more sharp in those little interruptions like I mentioned above. In particular I've read the stock 996 have a high front end. Sway bars are currently stock. Thought adding thicker bars on both ends might help mitigate the roll and help turn in. This is a DD and will be mostly on city streets, so ideally not looking to compromise ride quality.
Have had my '04 996 coupe for about 18 months. It had fairly new Bilstein B4s. I felt it had more body roll than I liked which made it a little unsettling (to me) in corners. I installed a set of Eibach swaybars, and the issue was resolved. Have since added H&R springs and will be upgrading tires and aligning soon.
I can give that a try. At what pressures though will i introduce premature tire wear? I don't want to be going through rear tires at 7-10k
I think the wheel widths you cited are the same as stock GT3 wheels with the exception of the fronts, which are 235/40. The recommended GT3 inflation is 32 front and 38 rear for street driving.
You will drop those pressures for track or autocross.
I don't know what widths your rims are and can't comment on the tires. I find the Michelin PS4s are best for street and the ride quality has been the best of any tire I have tried over the last 17 years.
Porsche race shop did the alignment/corner balance, said they liked how it drives. They race. It was SO MUCH BETTER than before, when I'd just aligned it at a generic tire shop. But, still not great.
12-17-2023, 07:13 PM
