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Beleive me, I will. I’ve read the RND engine break in protocol about 10 times and have it printed out for referral.
I’m the most nervous about the one second starts to build up oil pressure.
I don't think that people should follow this protocol unless they have an RND engine. When I developed the RND program for SSF Auto Parts, the engines were to be assembled with a very specific engine assembly gel. The oil pump cavity was also filled with a specific lubricant to assist with first- start priming.
If an engine that isn't prepped this way uses these protocols, unknown results are a possibility.
I don't think that people should follow this protocol unless they have an RND engine. When I developed the RND program for SSF Auto Parts, the engines were to be assembled with a very specific engine assembly gel. The oil pump cavity was also filled with a specific lubricant to assist with first- start priming.
If an engine that isn't prepped this way uses these protocols, unknown results are a possibility.
Thanks for the caution Jake. I really appreciate it. It seems the LNE Technical Bulletin on 996 start-up and break-in is essentially the same:
1. New fuel injectors should be used. Fuel filter, if serviceable, must be replaced. If new ones are
not available, original ones must be professionally rebuilt. Fuel older than 30 days must be
pumped out - old gas kills new engines.
2. Rebuilt engines should be fitted with the following new items: knock sensors, O2 sensors, MAF,
AOS and oil fill tubes, oil and coolant fill caps, Genuine Porsche AOS and water pump. The
engine must be smoke tested to ensure there are no vacuum leaks that can cause rich operation
and damage the engine during break-in.
3. Proper engine oil system priming and break-in is critical. Do not turn over an M96 engine to build
oil pressure – excessive cranking will cause rod bearing failure as the oil system will not prime at
starter speeds. To prime the engine, start and immediately turn off the engine. Repeat start/stop
until the gauge shows at least 2 bar of oil pressure. Once primed, break-in can commence. It is
critical to verify fuel trims and AFR as overly rich mixtures during break-in will result in engine
damage or failure.
4. Break-in oil should be used for 500-1000 miles, followed by conventional oil for 3000-5000 miles
until engine is fully broken in before switching to synthetic oils.
Beyond that, the RND guidance refers to two articles on break-in. One for motorcycle engines and one for air cooled engines and both say to run it hard from the beginning. The conflicting things from the article on air-cooled motors reference using synthetic oil to pre-lube the gears and bearings so that it's the SAME motor you will be running in the engine. It also states to remove the sparkplugs and oil pressure switch and crank the engine over. I wasn't planning on doing either of these things.
Do you see any conflicts? Or, can you point me toward another reference?
Got all of the connections made last weekend, filled all the fulids, started her up and ran for 20 mins.
All that's left to do is bleed the clutch slave cylinder which was replaced. Got a Motive pressure bleeder for that. See attached PDF for some great instructions on how to do it.
One issue I ran into was with the IMS Solution external oil line and how it ran so close to the sway bar. I have Tarret GT3 sway bars which are just a couple mm's larger so I didn't think it would be an issue, but as you can see below, unless you think in advance of your clearances with the oild feeder line, it coudl rub up against the bar:
So I had to do some research as to how to solve this (thank you to the person that helped out - you know who you are). I was able to fir the bar, measure the clearance, then remove the oil line and reinstall it using red threadlocker to get it to the place it needed to clear the bar. One thought though, it seems that the line itself is about an inch too long. If the line was a bit shorter, it wouldn't bow outward and "push" the line into the sway bar. A shorter line would force the line to bend/mount away from the bar. Anyway, here's how it ended up after messing with it for about an hour. With my finger out of the way it cleared the bar by about an 1/8".
So with any luck, we'll go on our maiden voyage tomorrow and thus comes the next dilema - run it hard or baby it....
Woo Hoo - took her out on her maiden voyage. Did about 100 miles with plenty of engine braking. Love this engine. Can’t wait to really get on it.
Thanks to all that helped me along the way. I’m so grateful to have this forum as a resource.
Awesome! Congratulations! It's so cool when you get them back together, and they work! Nice job, good attention to detail. good calling in resources when needed. Now drive!
Got all of the connections made last weekend, filled all the fulids, started her up and ran for 20 mins.
All that's left to do is bleed the clutch slave cylinder which was replaced. Got a Motive pressure bleeder for that. See attached PDF for some great instructions on how to do it.
One issue I ran into was with the IMS Solution external oil line and how it ran so close to the sway bar. I have Tarret GT3 sway bars which are just a couple mm's larger so I didn't think it would be an issue, but as you can see below, unless you think in advance of your clearances with the oild feeder line, it coudl rub up against the bar:
So I had to do some research as to how to solve this (thank you to the person that helped out - you know who you are). I was able to fir the bar, measure the clearance, then remove the oil line and reinstall it using red threadlocker to get it to the place it needed to clear the bar. One thought though, it seems that the line itself is about an inch too long. If the line was a bit shorter, it wouldn't bow outward and "push" the line into the sway bar. A shorter line would force the line to bend/mount away from the bar. Anyway, here's how it ended up after messing with it for about an hour. With my finger out of the way it cleared the bar by about an 1/8".
So with any luck, we'll go on our maiden voyage tomorrow and thus comes the next dilema - run it hard or baby it....
What do you mean by “fir the bar”? I dont understand how you fixed the issue. I plan to get the Tarett bar soon.
Got all of the connections made last weekend, filled all the fulids, started her up and ran for 20 mins.
All that's left to do is bleed the clutch slave cylinder which was replaced. Got a Motive pressure bleeder for that. See attached PDF for some great instructions on how to do it.
One issue I ran into was with the IMS Solution external oil line and how it ran so close to the sway bar. I have Tarret GT3 sway bars which are just a couple mm's larger so I didn't think it would be an issue, but as you can see below, unless you think in advance of your clearances with the oild feeder line, it coudl rub up against the bar:
So I had to do some research as to how to solve this (thank you to the person that helped out - you know who you are). I was able to fir the bar, measure the clearance, then remove the oil line and reinstall it using red threadlocker to get it to the place it needed to clear the bar. One thought though, it seems that the line itself is about an inch too long. If the line was a bit shorter, it wouldn't bow outward and "push" the line into the sway bar. A shorter line would force the line to bend/mount away from the bar. Anyway, here's how it ended up after messing with it for about an hour. With my finger out of the way it cleared the bar by about an 1/8".
So with any luck, we'll go on our maiden voyage tomorrow and thus comes the next dilema - run it hard or baby it....
It looks fine now. Wrap some old rubber hose around the line and zip tie it on - even if it moves or gets closer to the sway bar, you wont have to worry about it wearing... Good luck with the new engine!
What do you mean by “fir the bar”? I dont understand how you fixed the issue. I plan to get the Tarett bar soon.
It's just something you have to be careful with if you have an aftermarket sway bar. There can be an interference issue where the line can rub on the sway bar, so it's important to verify they are not making contact with each other when the car is on the ground. The issue will not be present with the car in the air with the suspension in full droop.
It's just something you have to be careful with if you have an aftermarket sway bar. There can be an interference issue where the line can rub on the sway bar, so it's important to verify they are not making contact with each other when the car is on the ground. The issue will not be present with the car in the air with the suspension in full droop.
Thanks Charles - I'll definitely take a look. BTW - thanks for the help with the block.
It's just something you have to be careful with if you have an aftermarket sway bar. There can be an interference issue where the line can rub on the sway bar, so it's important to verify they are not making contact with each other when the car is on the ground. The issue will not be present with the car in the air with the suspension in full droop.
I didnt install the ims solution myself and havent given it a lot of inspection on how can be changed. Is it able to be moved around in some way to increase clearance slightly if needed? Is that what he did to gain clearance?
01-21-2021, 12:39 AM
Now drive! 
