sgt1372

FWIW, my 2000 C4 Cab came w/a K&N "dry" air filter in it. It has not caused me any problems and I would not expect it to since it is "dry" (not oiled). Looked around the Net and have not been able to find it mentioned anywhere.

Don't know or really care if it makes any difference performance wise (doubt that it does) but as long as it doesn't cause me any problems, there's no way I'm going to bother replacing it w/the OEM air filter (which I'm sure will cost me more $ than it's worth). Will post a pic of it if/when I get a chance.

ssgunny

I saw a few selling for under $400 and free shipping on eBay.

Two questions concerning the 3.8 air box:

Does it use the same air filter as the 3.6? Looking it up online it seems to.

When looking for a used one, are there concerns of whether it came from a car with a manual or tip?

Thanks,
John

DBJoe996

Not so much the air filter box, but there is a difference on the intake pipe. Tip models have an extra vacuum connector on the intake hose. Manuals don't have that.

hatchetf15

Same filter.

ssgunny

Great so one less expense if you already have a newer filter for the original stock air box.

Understood, so if you have a manual you could use an air box from either type I am assuming.

Thanks for the responses!

DBJoe996

If you have a manual and get a tip intake hose, you have to plug that hole.

e90steve

It's not the airbox that is different, it's the pipe going from the airbox to the throttle body. You can buy a smooth version of that pipe from a ton of different vendors for less than $100. So use the box that your previous owner supplied and just purchase the aftermarket smooth pipe that connects the box to the throttle body.

or just buy a new elbow on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/intake-air-...YAAOSwTuRdg0ry

Looneybin

got a vid of that?

ssgunny

That link looks like it’s to a stock 3.4 hose but I understand what you are saying. I thought the design of the air box itself made the 3.8 superior to the 3.6 but if it’s just the hose then that will save a lot of money.

After looking at a few different threads the snorkel for the 997 air box does look like it allows for a larger volume or air to the box compared to the snorkel for the 996.

Idaho911

Are the 997 airboxes easier to R&R? Taking the 996s out is kind of a pain. I have the silicone elbow as well and it would be nice to not have to wrestle it so much.

hatchetf15

The interior volume of the 3.8 box is different than the 3.4/3.6 box. I don’t have pics of the two, but should throw some up here when I get a chance next week. Plus the 3.8 box looks nicer than the finned earlier ones. I wrestle with either airbox.

Mike Murphy

Hmm, the airbox in my 99 996 has maybe one or two bolts and isn’t really hard to add or remove.

SoCal911t

I have the 3.6 airbox and it doesn't seem any different than removing the stock one. It uses the same mounting points and I never considered it a big deal to remove.

yaz996

Have a little patience if you're trying to find a 3.8L airbox on eBay. And search via both part number and description. Picked one up a few months ago for my ongoing build for $213 and change (including shipping).

AnthonyGS

K&N is one of the best advertising companies ever. They totally solve a problem
that doesn’t exist while creating problems that didn’t exist. And they make a big profit doing it.

Air filtration is a simple mechanical process of catching particles. The air filter area and media determine the flow potential. The engine tells you how much air you need. Pick a good filter media, and size your filter accordingly. This is what all OEMs do really well.

K&N sells you a filter with much less area but flows a bit more... This automatically tells you it allows more dirt into your engine. It has to. They tell you to oil it to catch more dirt, but OEMs stopped using oil bath filters in the 50s. They tell you it’ll filter better as it gets dirty too.... gee thanks.

I did a long article on air filters long ago with a very simple test. It’s still on the web. It’s all still true.

Don’t believe this? Get a K&N run it for 5,000 miles with fresh oil get a UOA check the silica. Repeat with the stock airbox and fresh oil with an OEM filter. I dare ya. Silica will go down.

For the record, K&N used to call and harass me and had some advertising call center flunkie even threaten to sue me. I was a sailor at the time, so I replied like a pissed off sailor. If anyone wants to send me a crappy K&N filter for my Chevy Colorado Z71 with 3.6 V6, I will do the test myself. 12 quarts of nice oil would be good too. My P cars don’t get driven 10k miles in a short enough time.

The factory airbox and filter provide more than enough filtering and airflow to meet the needs of our engines. Why waste time buying and servicing crap when you can buy a case of genuine P car filters for the same amount and save time?

If you think K&N is awesome, I’ve got blinker fluid, and muffler O pipes you can buy too.