moosetaco

It was a bit of a gamble, but with such low torque I went for it...

Slim 5/16th ratcheting combo worked like a charm.

996.2

Reading online found 4 methods to remove 6th manifold bolt on installed engine: From outer side of manifold: 1. Use short 10mm wrench. 2. Loosen AOS first and swing out of way. 3. Come straight down with 1/4" ratchet and extension. Or from inner side of manifold: 4. 1/4" drive ratchet.

Tried number 3, and inspection mirror shows socket firmly on bolt. The little ratchet was strong enough to break the bolt loose and it was easily coming out until the socket got trapped between the AOS diaphram disc and manifold runner. I tilted the extension and while the socket was still pinned between two surfaces it was not too tight and bolt threads came completely out. If doing again would grind down the height and diameter of an old socket to minimize its size and therefore how much pressure it puts on the manifold runner. The universal joint was only used to get ratchet at correct length, it would not have been needed if the extension was a little longer.



The manifold held the loosened bolt, and with some thought and maneuvering it came out of the engine compartment. The AOS is now standing alone and 1 bolt looks easy to access, and I think the 2nd is underneath a wire harness that can be moved by cutting a factory installed tie wrap.





A quick look in the intake ports showed they and valves look very clean.

DSC800

These posts make it seem like you need to be a contortionist puzzle solver to change out the AOS, ending up with badly skinned knuckles. I just changed out my original AOS "while I was in there" with my trans out so I should be good to go for some time, hopefully. If I had to do just the AOS today I'd seriously consider dropping the trans again it if I knew I didn't need to take off the flywheel. It was a tight squeeze with it off but not hard and I think the flywheel might be in the way. I could probably drop the trans in a couple hours, going in from under the hood sounds like double that. Would have been nice if Porsche included access panels on the back deck for these things.

TexSquirrel

@996.2 , you're just about done with the hard part.
It goes back on much easier than it came apart.
The "hardest" parts of assembly are:

1. Getting the correct torque on the intake bolts. Remember it is INCH pounds, not foot pounds. The rear most bolt(s) have to be done by muscle memory, not a torque wrench
2. Getting the plenums on. It is easy once you've done it a few times. Push rubber pieces as outboard as possible and slip one end of the plenum in. Use soft plastic interior tools to motivate the plenum into the other rubber piece. The plastic vacuum line can be connected after the rear plenum is in place. Just reach underneath. Rotate the plenum some if necessary.

moosetaco

2004 C2 here, all of my bolts were E10 torx on the manifold and AOS.

TexSquirrel

I have a 2002 C2 and all of mine were 10mm on both.
I wonder when they changed.

De Jeeper

Because e10 suck . I would swap them out if they were in my car

moosetaco

Rest of the bolts weren't too difficult , but there was obviously no way and e10 was fitting on the "bitch bolt." Like I said, 5/16th ratcheting closed end wrench will get the job done if your engine is fitted with the torx bolts. The biggest problem I see for novice mechanics is working via mirror, borescope, or using the "force" (Eyes closed, working by feel). Obviously, I went with combo of all three. After changing out the AOS, upper and lower hoses for AOS, and coolant expansion tank this past weekend, I can honestly say I should have just pulled the motor. What a PITA.

Porschetech3

WHINE ! WHINE ! WHINE ! This stuff is just another day in the life of a Porsche Tech.. I know it's evil, but I get a kick out of watching the struggle, but I warned ya, "Pro installation recommended"...lol

TexSquirrel

Every make/model has their tough to do job.
BMW N54 electric water pump R&R. Honda Odyssey alternator R&R, Toyota Sienna rear 3 spark plugs, Ford Triton spark plugs, Chevy LT1 Opti-spark R&R...

Scratched knuckles doing an AOS? R&R a BMW water pump!

M96 spark plugs tough to get to? Replace the rear spark plugs on a Toyota Sienna. The back three require the winshield wiper assembly and part of the firewall removed...along with the intake.
Ford Triton spark plugs almost always break coming out.

The Opti-Spark is WAY down there below the water pump...that's so it can get wet and stop working soon.

Honda Odyssey alternator is a pain...until you know the secrets that's aren't in any manual. Oh yeah, easy to get it out of the mount...but the hole you're working in is too small for the alternator to fit through.

...and on and on...

The upside to working on a 996:
Motor mounts, oil changes, headlight R&R, brake pads...

996.2

I really respect you guys that do this work for a living.

We ordered a few of these and will try one in the 6th bolt position. My notes say 7.5 ft/lbs. Should allow for easy removal next time because there is no socket to bind between manifold and AOS diaphragm. To drive thinking about cutting down a long ball end allen wrench.

Porschetech3

^^^^^ one of the main reasons I Invented the UAOS and made the AOS a "Lifetime" part, for a part that fails so often and so hard to replace, you only want to do it ONCE !!

Not to mention the fact that many M96 engines have failed due to Hydrolock !!! And contributed greatly to the reputation of the 996...

996.2

First time you guys have seen a demolition saw used in the repair of a M96 engine:

The bolt towards front of car was a Torx 30 and the head lightly stripped but it came out ok. The rear bolt to get the T30 socket on it required either a shorter extension which I didn't want to stop progress while it was purchased or cut off the AOS diaphragm and that was done. After gaining access the bolt head stripped really disheartening!!! I was able to tap an English size allen (hex) socket into the bolt head and super blessed the bolt broke loose and came out. Now just have a wire harness to disconnect which is trapping the bottom AOS hose. Purchasing a short 1/4" drive wobble extension and 2 new bolts for new AOS install.

Porschetech3

OK !! OK !! You're not a Whiner ! Don't take it out on the 996.

I'll have to get Rennvision to do a " Focus on UAOS installation" video to show the proper way..

Kris Murphy

My 99 is all E10, but it is a reman motor with the 997 IMS bearing (I was very lucky with the salvage car I purchased sight unseen to to replace my blown motor, that it was a reman motor).

On the 99, the last time I removed the AOS (I did it a total of 4 times, but once the motor was out of the car), I was able to get it out in 45 minutes (removing the manifold). The bitch bolt I can do with a 3/8ths, but that is have unmounting the AOS.

I am grateful that I will never have to do it again thanks to Skip and the UAOS.