What else do do when installing a used engine?
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What else do do when installing a used engine?
Assuming I could get a used engine I felt confident in purchasing, what maintenance and updates should I do to the motor itself along with the install or while the engine is out?
I'm thinking about the following (in addition to fluids and filters):
I'm thinking about the following (in addition to fluids and filters):
- Spark plugs
- IMS bearing (probably LN retrofit for dual row)
- Clutch kit
- AOS
- RMS
- Water pump
- Thermostat
- Coolant tank
- Fuel filter
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2018
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I've got a '99, so I need a 3.4 with a cable throttle control.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Dec 2016
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From: Kauai
o2 sensors if yours are original
Vacuum lines
Y-cable
IMS Solution should be a do it once and forget it. The others have to be replaced every 60-75K MILES if I recall.
Are you keeping the car or flipping it?
Vacuum lines
Y-cable
IMS Solution should be a do it once and forget it. The others have to be replaced every 60-75K MILES if I recall.
Are you keeping the car or flipping it?
Thread Starter
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Im not intending to flip the car immediately, but I dont intend to keep it forever. Ill only put a couple thousand miles a year on it, so 60-75k miles is a lot of year 30+ years away.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 155
From: VT USA
Depending on the year, you could add spark plug tubes and o-rings.
Look the specific donor over carefully, many jobs are much easier with the engine out. Scrutinize for any oily deposits and leaks, reseal as necessary. Sometimes an inexpensive o-ring changed in minutes with the engine out avoids a painful slow job when the engine is back in place.
@808Bill might recommend making sure any fasteners you remove (like throttle body worm drive clamps) are oriented so they will be accessible with the engine installed.
Likewise, install the muffler mount bolts head down so the mufflers can be removed without taking off the brackets.
When doing the IMS bearing, dont forget all of the aluminum sealing washers (tensioners), cam cover caps, and little things that will slow you down if you dont have them handy. Plus the variety of sealants that arent super common (wicking green, etc.)
Replace the flywheel and pressure plate hardware with new bolts (they are one time use and inexpensive to replace).
I also like to do the transmission input seal and upgrade the clutch actuating arm, release bearing, and related (pivot/clip) parts while Im there. (Lubricate the proper pivot points to avoid future squeaks.)Not expensive, but it takes a lot of labor to get back in there.
Its a good opportunity to throw on a LN engineering magnetic drain plug and spin on filter adapter.
If it doesnt already have one, a engine skid plate is a nice addition to protect the underside.
Look the specific donor over carefully, many jobs are much easier with the engine out. Scrutinize for any oily deposits and leaks, reseal as necessary. Sometimes an inexpensive o-ring changed in minutes with the engine out avoids a painful slow job when the engine is back in place.
@808Bill might recommend making sure any fasteners you remove (like throttle body worm drive clamps) are oriented so they will be accessible with the engine installed.
Likewise, install the muffler mount bolts head down so the mufflers can be removed without taking off the brackets.
When doing the IMS bearing, dont forget all of the aluminum sealing washers (tensioners), cam cover caps, and little things that will slow you down if you dont have them handy. Plus the variety of sealants that arent super common (wicking green, etc.)
Replace the flywheel and pressure plate hardware with new bolts (they are one time use and inexpensive to replace).
I also like to do the transmission input seal and upgrade the clutch actuating arm, release bearing, and related (pivot/clip) parts while Im there. (Lubricate the proper pivot points to avoid future squeaks.)Not expensive, but it takes a lot of labor to get back in there.
Its a good opportunity to throw on a LN engineering magnetic drain plug and spin on filter adapter.
If it doesnt already have one, a engine skid plate is a nice addition to protect the underside.
Last edited by cds72911; May 2, 2019 at 10:34 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 155
From: VT USA
Not necessary true. You need to swap over your throttle body and engine harness, but the early e-gas motors will swap into your cable throttle chassis just fine. @Porschetech3 may have more specific guidance.
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 8,050
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From: Kauai
Has anyone mentioned pulleys and belt? Easy to do with engine in but a failure while driving could cause bad things to happen.
Also, get new injectors, not rebuilt.
Scope bores for scoring too. I would make a condition before purchase (like a PPI)
When I did my engine swap, I was losing my empty warehouse space and could not take the time to do all that I wanted/should have done while the engine was sitting on the stand.
Take notes of all the suggestions made above and just do it right the first time (if you can) as the little things turn into big things later.
I thought about this thread while in bed last night and am trying to give you all I can of the top of my head...But my head hurts, lol
Good luck!
What's the history of the motor you're looking at? I was fortunate to have some on mine but wish I had more.
Also, get new injectors, not rebuilt.
Scope bores for scoring too. I would make a condition before purchase (like a PPI)
When I did my engine swap, I was losing my empty warehouse space and could not take the time to do all that I wanted/should have done while the engine was sitting on the stand.
Take notes of all the suggestions made above and just do it right the first time (if you can) as the little things turn into big things later.
I thought about this thread while in bed last night and am trying to give you all I can of the top of my head...But my head hurts, lol
Good luck!
What's the history of the motor you're looking at? I was fortunate to have some on mine but wish I had more.
Last edited by 808Bill; May 2, 2019 at 02:37 PM.
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From: Alabama USA
Not necessary true. You need to swap over your throttle body and engine harness, but the early e-gas motors will swap into your cable throttle chassis just fine. @Porschetech3 may have more specific guidance.
As a "while its out" addition, I would install a new set of vario-cam pads to the engine.
Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone. This is a great list, although it's starting sound expensive 
I should have clarified that I'm not doing the work myself. I wish I could, but even if I had the time, I just don't have the space for a job this size. I'll be working with a shop and they will help me inspect the engine and prioritize what needs to be updated. I just wanted to have a list of "must-haves" and a list of "maybe-if-its-worn-out" items to start with. To that end:
Must haves:
Things to consider or inspect and replace if needed:
These items sound like they require some engine disassembly. Not sure I want to get into that, but will have to investigate.
I haven't decided yet what I'm going to do, but I wanted to get this priced out for a fair comparison against a rebuild.
I should have clarified that I'm not doing the work myself. I wish I could, but even if I had the time, I just don't have the space for a job this size. I'll be working with a shop and they will help me inspect the engine and prioritize what needs to be updated. I just wanted to have a list of "must-haves" and a list of "maybe-if-its-worn-out" items to start with. To that end:
Must haves:
- Spark plugs
- IMS bearing (probably LN retrofit for dual row)
- Clutch kit
- AOS
- RMS
- Water pump
- Thermostat
- Coolant tank
- Fuel filter
Things to consider or inspect and replace if needed:
- Spark plug tubes and o-rings
- Engine mounts
- Trans mount
- Coil packs
- Slave cylinder
- o2 sensors if yours are original
- Vacuum lines
- Y-cable
- oil cooler O-rings
- flywheel
- accessory belt and pulleys
- fuel injectors
These items sound like they require some engine disassembly. Not sure I want to get into that, but will have to investigate.
- Scavenge pumps
- cam chains and ramps
I haven't decided yet what I'm going to do, but I wanted to get this priced out for a fair comparison against a rebuild.
Last edited by wsrgklt; May 3, 2019 at 12:45 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 155
From: VT USA
Looks like a good list.
If it is a 3.4 it has plastic spark plug tubes (2002+ 3.6 has design changed and metal tubes). They suffer with heat and age personally, Id move them to the must do list if you are doing plugs When they are doing spark plugs, they are right there, and can replace these inexpensive parts easily.
If it is a 3.4 it has plastic spark plug tubes (2002+ 3.6 has design changed and metal tubes). They suffer with heat and age personally, Id move them to the must do list if you are doing plugs When they are doing spark plugs, they are right there, and can replace these inexpensive parts easily.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 842
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From: Clemson, South Carolina
Recognizing that some of the items that have been listed can be replaced with the engine in the car, I would inspect these items, but not necessarily replace. As part of the inspection, I would drop the sump and have a close look for any particulates and borescope the bottom of the cylinders for evidence of scoring. If it all looks good, I would replace the following:
1. IMSB, even if it is the dual row. Installing the Solution would be ideal, but it is more expensive.
2. Variocam tensioner pads as Porschetech3 suggests.
3. Flywheel bolts since you will need to remove the flywheel (DMF) to get to the IMSB.
4. RMS since you are "in there" and the part is not expensive.
If the intake plenum is clean (little to no oil in intake plenum), I would not spend the money to replace the AOS. I would remove the bolts an put a dab of never-seez on them to make future removal easier. Once you have the engine installed and running, you can perform the vacuum test to validate.
I am one of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" people. I don't mind going back into the car later to do maintenance when something eventually fails.
1. IMSB, even if it is the dual row. Installing the Solution would be ideal, but it is more expensive.
2. Variocam tensioner pads as Porschetech3 suggests.
3. Flywheel bolts since you will need to remove the flywheel (DMF) to get to the IMSB.
4. RMS since you are "in there" and the part is not expensive.
If the intake plenum is clean (little to no oil in intake plenum), I would not spend the money to replace the AOS. I would remove the bolts an put a dab of never-seez on them to make future removal easier. Once you have the engine installed and running, you can perform the vacuum test to validate.
I am one of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" people. I don't mind going back into the car later to do maintenance when something eventually fails.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 155
From: VT USA
I, on the other hand, would put on a new air oil separator.
In my mind, the cost of the part is negligible compared to the labor (cost in your case, time in my case) of dealing with it later. The AOS in particular is a great example of a part that is a huge hassle to do with the engine in and laughably easy with the engine out.
Id rather spend a few bucks doing preventative maintenance than deal with breakdowns and emergency repairs. Having the engine out is a perfect opportunity to do many of these tasks.
Doing it the other way is penny wise, pound foolish, IMO.
In my mind, the cost of the part is negligible compared to the labor (cost in your case, time in my case) of dealing with it later. The AOS in particular is a great example of a part that is a huge hassle to do with the engine in and laughably easy with the engine out.
Id rather spend a few bucks doing preventative maintenance than deal with breakdowns and emergency repairs. Having the engine out is a perfect opportunity to do many of these tasks.
Doing it the other way is penny wise, pound foolish, IMO.