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2019 Engine Rebuild Comparison RND/FSI/EBS/Vertex

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Old 05-10-2019, 06:18 PM
  #106  
wsrgklt
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While the Porsche dealers wouldn't call me back, I did finally talk to someone about the Porsche short block option. My BMW mechanic recommended an indy Porsche specialist who is a former Porsche dealer tech, and recommended the short block option as the most cost-effective route. I'll add the details to the spreadsheet, but the total cost is about $12k. That includes the new short block, a basic head rebuild (valve job, guides, machining), and a couple of sensible while-you're-in-there's like the AOS.

This is actually a pretty attractive option. Less than a rebuild with steel sleeves, and a little more than a used engine.
Old 05-11-2019, 08:37 PM
  #107  
ltusler
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Originally Posted by dporto
^^Not the same as testing the engine in the car...
The Flat 6 program is simple.

You send them the car.
They evaluate the current engine.
You choose from the available options.
You send them a check.
They build the engine.
They put it on a engine dyno to begin break in. If it scatters at this point it's on their dime not yours.
They road test it and break it in more. If it scatters at this point it's on their dime not yours.
They ship the car back.
You put a smile on your face and drive like the wind.
Put that in the spreadsheet.
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Old 05-11-2019, 09:21 PM
  #108  
wildbilly32
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Originally Posted by ltusler
The Flat 6 program is simple.

You send them the car.
They evaluate the current engine.
You choose from the available options.
You send them a check.
They build the engine.
They put it on a engine dyno to begin break in. If it scatters at this point it's on their dime not yours.
They road test it and break it in more. If it scatters at this point it's on their dime not yours.
They ship the car back.
You put a smile on your face and drive like the wind.
Put that in the spreadsheet.
That is the PERFECT option for me...
Old 05-12-2019, 08:37 AM
  #109  
cds72911
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Yes, it is perfect if you have $20K+ cash you are willing to spend on a car worth less than that to begin with.

I’m not saying it is bad, since that’d be what I’d do too, if I loved the car, and was in that financial position when the time came, but it isn’t the answer for every situation.

A perfect example is a roller I bought for a typical roller price - I wasn’t about to spend 3x that or more on a high end LN engine for a car like that. It wasn’t “a keeper” for me, so to spend over 30k on a car I could only sell for half of that didn’t make any sense.

Last edited by cds72911; 05-12-2019 at 12:04 PM.
Old 05-12-2019, 11:15 AM
  #110  
808Bill
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Originally Posted by wsrgklt
While the Porsche dealers wouldn't call me back, I did finally talk to someone about the Porsche short block option. My BMW mechanic recommended an indy Porsche specialist who is a former Porsche dealer tech, and recommended the short block option as the most cost-effective route. I'll add the details to the spreadsheet, but the total cost is about $12k. That includes the new short block, a basic head rebuild (valve job, guides, machining), and a couple of sensible while-you're-in-there's like the AOS.

This is actually a pretty attractive option. Less than a rebuild with steel sleeves, and a little more than a used engine.
Not if you live in Hawaii though!
Old 05-12-2019, 09:09 PM
  #111  
wildbilly32
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Originally Posted by cds72911
Yes, it is perfect if you have $20K+ cash you are willing to spend on a car worth less than that to begin with.

I’m not saying it is bad, since that’d be what I’d do too, if I loved the car, and was in that financial position when the time came, but it isn’t the answer for every situation.

A perfect example is a roller I bought for a typical roller price - I wasn’t about to spend 3x that or more on a high end LN engine for a car like that. It wasn’t “a keeper” for me, so to spend over 30k on a car I could only sell for half of that didn’t make any sense.
That's why I said it is a perfect option for me...not a perfect option for everybody and I can't really say I love my car. It's just a toy and not an investment for the future. If I have to do this and I do, I want to do it right...once. To me this seems like the right option...for me.
Old 05-12-2019, 10:28 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by wildbilly32
That's why I said it is a perfect option for me...not a perfect option for everybody and I can't really say I love my car. It's just a toy and not an investment for the future. If I have to do this and I do, I want to do it right...once. To me this seems like the right option...for me.
100% concur. I bought my 02/98 build SPECIFICALLY to get the FSI build and have a forever car. I could have spent a little more to get a 996 Turbo, but it would have been a different set of issues to deal with and still has an e-throttle. I wanted the cable throttle and factory LSD with the earliest of water-cooled engines, and to have FSI build for a bullet-proof daily/track weapon that is a 'sleeper' compared to GT-3s. I know I'll be happy with one of the lightest/stiffest/fastest builds that can do so much and be super reliable after getting it back from FSI.

For me, it is a better spend than any other model. It will be unique and fun. Which was why I bought it.
Old 05-13-2019, 10:02 AM
  #113  
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It is cool and awesome that you are getting a top of the line engine for your 996. I’m sure it will result in the best of all worlds with a nice, lightweight, analog car with amazing power delivery. That sounds like a great setup. I have to admit, I’m a bit jealous.

Stepping away from how awesome that is for you two, I have to say that it is my impression (and it could be entirely incorrect) that many of the people that come to the 996 forum on Rennnlist to ask about options for a replacement engine for their blown up car aren’t in a hurry to pay more for an engine than they did for the vehicle. Lots of people *seem* to want to know the most economical way to get their car running again, or how to turn their roller into a driver.

I am inclined to have patience for the others that aren’t in a socioeconomic situation where they can afford a LN engine, and are simply trying to find an economical way to stay in a 996.

Last edited by cds72911; 05-13-2019 at 10:32 AM.
Old 05-13-2019, 11:00 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by cds72911
It is cool and awesome that you are getting a top of the line engine for your 996. I’m sure it will result in the best of all worlds with a nice, lightweight, analog car with amazing power delivery. That sounds like a great setup. I have to admit, I’m a bit jealous.

Stepping away from how awesome that is for you two, I have to say that it is my impression (and it could be entirely incorrect) that many of the people that come to the 996 forum on Rennnlist to ask about options for a replacement engine for their blown up car aren’t in a hurry to pay more for an engine than they did for the vehicle. Lots of people *seem* to want to know the most economical way to get their car running again, or how to turn their roller into a driver.

I am inclined to have patience for the others that aren’t in a socioeconomic situation where they can afford a LN engine, and are simply trying to find an economical way to stay in a 996.
Couldn't agree more. That is why it is nice that there are so many options and price points available to keep these cars on the road and being enjoyed.
Old 05-13-2019, 11:33 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by cds72911
Yes, it is perfect if you have $20K+ cash you are willing to spend on a car worth less than that to begin with.

I’m not saying it is bad, since that’d be what I’d do too, if I loved the car, and was in that financial position when the time came, but it isn’t the answer for every situation.

A perfect example is a roller I bought for a typical roller price - I wasn’t about to spend 3x that or more on a high end LN engine for a car like that. It wasn’t “a keeper” for me, so to spend over 30k on a car I could only sell for half of that didn’t make any sense.
I think the first question people need to ask themselves is if they are keeping the car or selling. What I mean is that it makes no sense to spend 20k on an engine when you can go out and buy another used 996 for 20k or less. The resell value certainly don't support this. However, if you pay 20k for your car and put 20k into an rebuild that increases your performance to 300 whp and reliability for along time to come? 40k put you in base 997 or high mileage 996 turbo but are you much worse off? I do agree that it make no sense to spend 3x of what you pay for in a car on an engine that you can't resell for half the price. However, if the objective is to keep the car, then 30k to 40k with a 3.8/4.0 996 that has all weak point addressed, does sounds good compare to the same price in a 997 that still have its weak points.

Track car is a different issue though as track is a money pit in the first place and to run it economically, this model probably not a good idea.
Old 05-13-2019, 11:48 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by rogazilla
I think the first question people need to ask themselves is if they are keeping the car or selling. What I mean is that it makes no sense to spend 20k on an engine when you can go out and buy another used 996 for 20k or less. The resell value certainly don't support this. However, if you pay 20k for your car and put 20k into an rebuild that increases your performance to 300 whp and reliability for along time to come? 40k put you in base 997 or high mileage 996 turbo but are you much worse off? I do agree that it make no sense to spend 3x of what you pay for in a car on an engine that you can't resell for half the price. However, if the objective is to keep the car, then 30k to 40k with a 3.8/4.0 996 that has all weak point addressed, does sounds good compare to the same price in a 997 that still have its weak points.

Track car is a different issue though as track is a money pit in the first place and to run it economically, this model probably not a good idea.
BINGO!
Old 05-13-2019, 02:03 PM
  #117  
cds72911
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I agree with a lot of what is said above.

I guess one thing that I get stuck on is that a lot of this presumes that someone has $20+ that they are willing to throw into their ~$20k car.

Maybe I'm just not seeing it right and I am the only one here who doesn't have an extra $20k+ that I am willing to throw at my weekend car. That's entirely possible, I guess.

I didn't realize I was hanging out with so many high rollers.
Old 05-13-2019, 02:11 PM
  #118  
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definitely not a high roller here. That's why I say the first thing people need to decide is if they are keeping the car.

1. if you don't have 20k, the decision is simple, sell the roller.
2. if you do have 20k, do you buy another car? fun car? what can you get for 20k compares to your 996?
3. if you decide to spend 20k on another 996... why not rebuild the engine that address all the weak point and improve performance in the process.

Just a thought process through some kind of decision making process.
Old 05-13-2019, 02:12 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by cds72911
I agree with a lot of what is said above.

I guess one thing that I get stuck on is that a lot of this presumes that someone has $20+ that they are willing to throw into their ~$20k car.

Maybe I'm just not seeing it right and I am the only one here who doesn't have an extra $20k+ that I am willing to throw at my weekend car. That's entirely possible, I guess.

I didn't realize I was hanging out with so many high rollers.
Ha! I'm certainly NOT a high roller, I just budgeted a certain amount for a 911 done a way that I want it done. I'm not looking at it being 'worth' something post-rebuild as much as I will get intrinsic satisfaction about knowing what went into it. I also know that it will be much more sorted out so that I will have years of enjoyment. But I'm glad the OP put this comparison for our benefit and illustrate the options that are out there.
Old 05-13-2019, 03:21 PM
  #120  
wsrgklt
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I'm with @cds72911 on this. Lot's of people are making this a binary decision where you have to spend $20k+ for a "bulletproof" motor and everything else is assumed to fail and be wasted money. In fact there are a range of options, and while all of them are expensive, I reject this notion that anything less than an FSI build is wasted money. All of the options for rebuilding and replacing an engine will last for some period of time and number of miles. All of them will will eventually fail, given the right (wrong?) circumstances.

In my case, I have with 70k miles on it. It's cosmetically nice, but it has an accident on it's carfax. I'm not planning to keep it forever, but I think I might keep it for a 5 years, which will be about 10-12k miles of driving for me. I'm considering the shortblock route, which will cost around $12k, and while it might not last forever, I feel pretty confident it will last my ownership of the car and well into the next owner's usage. After all, there are plenty of owners with 50,60,100k+ miles on their original engines.

Lots of people on this forum are looking for validation of their of their personal choices, but the thing is, there is no reasonable argument of having these cars at all. Sports cars are frivolous, and it's an inherently emotional choice to buy and fix one. Not to mention, many of us have lost way more than $20k on newer cars due to depreciation alone. Make choices that work for you. Let others make choices that work for them. And remember "Nobody with a good car needs to be justified."


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