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Slowly coming together The front bumper was harder to to properly than they expected, so it's going to be there until monday. After seeing this pic, I'm wondering if I should just leave the headlights as they are. They work well with this color without the tint as well.
Installed Koni Sports, Eibach springs, new bumpstops, and mounts.
96k on the old dampers fronts were blown, but the rears still had some resistance to them.
Installed Koni Sports, Eibach springs, new bumpstops, and mounts.
96k on the old dampers fronts were blown, but the rears still had some resistance to them.
A little lower stance and a much firmer ride.
I always liked the idea of a Koni based suspension. Just never got around to it except a 914 years ago. Look forward to hearing what you think of the setup after a couple of weeks.
I went to Tire Rack and added up the cost of the shocks plus springs. They were just a couple of hundred dollars less that the full Euro M030 suspension at Suncoast. Any other particular reason to go with individual components?
I don’t use the Koni’s anymore, but one advantage when I did was for easy adjustability. With the M030, you have fixed dampening, for about the same money you can pick up the adjustable Konis. I used them when I only had one car and wanted to quickly adjust from a street setting to a firmer setup for autocross.
I don’t use the Koni’s anymore, but one advantage when I did was for easy adjustability. With the M030, you have fixed dampening, for about the same money you can pick up the adjustable Konis. I used them when I only had one car and wanted to quickly adjust from a street setting to a firmer setup for autocross.
Yes, completely agree with your reasoning.
But I did not see any mention of track or AX, so assumed street use. My thought was the M030 has matched shock valve rates with the springs, and matched sway bars. That said, I loved PSS9’s on my 1999 and would go that route again for dual use.
No criticism here, just wanting to thoughts behind purchase.
But I did not see any mention of track or AX, so assumed street use. My thought was matched shock valve rates with the springs, and matched sway bars. That said, I loved PSS9’s on my 1999 and would go that route again for dual use.
No criticism here, just wanting to thoughts behind purchase.
Yup, as my kids say “same”. I have the PSS10 on my 2000 and I think it is an ideal setup for dual use, with no discernible compromises. Then again, I am a huge Bilstein fan from a long history of successful use, so am biased.
If I put the M030 full kit on my 03 C2, w/tip, how much stiffer will normal daily driving seem?
It is my understanding is that a Euro M030 will fall somewhere between a stock suspension and PSS9/10's, probably a tad closer to the PSS setup. I had PSS9's on my '99 and they were great in a combo street / DE car.
FWIW, I plan on the M030 route for my AE after I get the 986S sold. But, if I again found a near perfect used PSS at a great price, I would not hesitate to install them as well.
It is my understanding is that a Euro M030 will fall somewhere between a stock suspension and PSS9/10's, probably a tad closer to the PSS setup. I had PSS9's on my '99 and they were great in a combo street / DE car.
FWIW, I plan on the M030 route for my AE after I get the 986S sold. But, if I again found a near perfect used PSS at a great price, I would not hesitate to install them as well.
Remember, your 40AE already has M030, just not ROW M030 ride height.
The package sold by Sunsports is probably close enough to what was originally sold on the ROW 40AE but it's not exact. I've done all the number searching from the US and ROW parts catalogs for the 40AE US, 40AE ROW vs. US and ROW M030 (non 40AE). They are all a little different. But like I said, an ROW M030 kit is probably so close to AE ROW M030 that it's not worth trying to make it exact.
Wednesday I took my car out for the first time since I purchased it in January. Did an alignment on it and gave it a look over, decided I couldn't wait on the rear tires, it needed them. Thursday I took the car for a 15 minute drive, parked it for an hour, and it wouldn't start. Cranked fine but not so much as a sputter. I noted the fuel pump primed but the tach wasn't moving when cranking. Had the car dropped at my shop a couple hours later via tow truck and the car started and ran just fine. So today I pulled the car in and replaced the crankshaft position sensor, mounted a new set of rear tires up, and pulled the front bumper and replaced the drivers A/C condenser as it was leaking. I also cleaned the radiator while it was apart and also pulled the passenger side condenser and cleaned that radiator as well. Vacuumed the A/C system and charged it. A/C is working excellent now. Drove the car twice letting it sit and heat soak like I had yesterday and it fired right back up so I am hoping the crank sensor has cured that issue.