What did you do to your 996 today?
#9136
He's 50$ an hour cheaper than the local PSC. Cheaper isn't always better, but he's much closer to my place and like I said I have no complaints at all. He's been very honest and fair. We're spoilt for choice here. The local PSC also have a 996 specialist who actually worked for my Indy when he first came to town, but moved on to the PSC when the opportunity came up. That's enough gossip haha.
Where are you that is 225 an hour, NYC or CA? That seems unreasonable to me. It also makes me glad I had so much work done before I move.
The following users liked this post:
imhighlander (08-10-2023)
#9137
Finally
Well, I am not a gifted mechanic. Or, even much of a hack mechanic. However, a quote to install the Mr12volt Bluetooth device for the Bose system in my 40AE, was more money than I wanted to pay. So, I read and re-read all of the installation links in Rennlist, watched a bunch of videos on YouTube, and bought the YAZ996 power plug and his elegant Hazard Switch phone mount. CD changer was easily removed, though the power plug, even with the lock tab depressed was a bear to get out. Pulled the horseshoe on the dash, and found the sharpened panel removal tool slid easily into the little gaps without damage. Removed the side covers to the console, fished out the phone plug. Routed cables to the console, and installed the Bluetooth there and plugged in the power to the phone plug. Installed the Bluetooth module, and powered the car up. No lights on the device, and the stereo was now dead. Great. Decided to check the fuse for the phone, and the fuse was bad. New fuse- and I heard angels sing…okay, it was actually AC/DC… The phone plug power tap is elegant, as is the phone mount. I used a 1” ball insert, and paired it with a cheap Amazon mount marketed as a Ford Bronco mount. Works great. Having used it for a couple of days, I can say that my phone charges, the Bluetooth syncs as soon as the car is on, all of the sound controls respond. Overall, the sound is really good, considering Bose doesn’t know what bass means…I’ve found it be appropriate or everything from Eagles to Miles to Maynard Ferguson to Led Zeppelin and Siri works to pull music, and make and receive calls. The best part? Everything is reversible, in case one day my kids want to use the CD changer to be ‘old school’.
I’m now looking forward even more to the trip down the coast to Rennsport in September, with a more modern entertainment system.
The following 4 users liked this post by GmundtotheWorld:
#9138
@imhighlander
He's 50$ an hour cheaper than the local PSC. Cheaper isn't always better, but he's much closer to my place and like I said I have no complaints at all. He's been very honest and fair. We're spoilt for choice here. The local PSC also have a 996 specialist who actually worked for my Indy when he first came to town, but moved on to the PSC when the opportunity came up. That's enough gossip haha.
Where are you that is 225 an hour, NYC or CA? That seems unreasonable to me. It also makes me glad I had so much work done before I move.
He's 50$ an hour cheaper than the local PSC. Cheaper isn't always better, but he's much closer to my place and like I said I have no complaints at all. He's been very honest and fair. We're spoilt for choice here. The local PSC also have a 996 specialist who actually worked for my Indy when he first came to town, but moved on to the PSC when the opportunity came up. That's enough gossip haha.
Where are you that is 225 an hour, NYC or CA? That seems unreasonable to me. It also makes me glad I had so much work done before I move.
#9139
The silver finish on my shifter button was badly worn so I decided to sand it all down and repaint it. Turned out great and was a lot cheaper vs a new one. I used Porsche Arctic Silver which was a perfect match.
Next up will be disassembling the center console and painting it but that will have to wait until winter when it's in the 60s vs the 100s currently.
Next up will be disassembling the center console and painting it but that will have to wait until winter when it's in the 60s vs the 100s currently.
The following 6 users liked this post by SwissInTexas:
996-CAB (08-10-2023),
damage98MO (08-12-2023),
Einsteiger (08-10-2023),
fazm (08-10-2023),
peterp (08-24-2023),
and 1 others liked this post.
#9140
Plpete84,
I am trying to mount the X51 runner on the passenger side and I have an interference between the runner and the A/C suction line. Can you put up a picture of the intake runner above the A/C lines to the compressor for your engine please. Does your car have the fuel cooler in the A/S suction line?
I am trying to mount the X51 runner on the passenger side and I have an interference between the runner and the A/C suction line. Can you put up a picture of the intake runner above the A/C lines to the compressor for your engine please. Does your car have the fuel cooler in the A/S suction line?
#9141
Plpete84,
I am trying to mount the X51 runner on the passenger side and I have an interference between the runner and the A/C suction line. Can you put up a picture of the intake runner above the A/C lines to the compressor for your engine please. Does your car have the fuel cooler in the A/S suction line?
I am trying to mount the X51 runner on the passenger side and I have an interference between the runner and the A/C suction line. Can you put up a picture of the intake runner above the A/C lines to the compressor for your engine please. Does your car have the fuel cooler in the A/S suction line?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Sw7FasHUFZEPtmcNA
#9144
I had the same when I fitted the x51 inlet , there's a different part needed - when I fitted I initially bent the original part but after investigation managed to source the correct part - my opc helped with this, it's not listed on PET but iirc they found it through the original x51 parts list. Drop me a pm if you still have trouble and I'll see if I can dig out the details.
The following users liked this post:
plpete84 (08-11-2023)
#9145
I went after my rear right wheel hub bearing.
First, you need a breaker bar:
I kept taking off parts to free up the hub. Here's where I ended up, unable to get the lower ball joint out of the hub assembly:
I'm gonna go back after it in the morning with a bit more enthusiasm. I bought this kit to do the pressing and I think I'll be fine on that part:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175476945906
Happy to hear any tips/tricks.
First, you need a breaker bar:
I kept taking off parts to free up the hub. Here's where I ended up, unable to get the lower ball joint out of the hub assembly:
I'm gonna go back after it in the morning with a bit more enthusiasm. I bought this kit to do the pressing and I think I'll be fine on that part:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175476945906
Happy to hear any tips/tricks.
The following 2 users liked this post by fazm:
damage98MO (08-13-2023),
wdb (08-13-2023)
#9147
Take the 3 nuts holding the strut in at the top off and the entire assembly drops down, remove lower strut bolt and tap it out, then upright will come off the ball joint easily. It looks like its already popped free
The following 2 users liked this post by De Jeeper:
binaryaudax (08-13-2023),
fazm (08-13-2023)
The following users liked this post:
wdb (08-13-2023)
#9150
Had a 996 shop day. My car received a CSF 3rd radiator and front control arms with monoball bearing and upgraded thrust arm bushings. The red one got a CSF 3rd radiator, low temp thermostat, and 2qt sump spacer and baffle kit. The white one got Tarrett pro-series control arms hence the upgrade on my car.
Last edited by Geoff.T; 08-14-2023 at 03:20 AM.
The following 6 users liked this post by Geoff.T:
binaryaudax (08-14-2023),
Einsteiger (08-14-2023),
EVOMMM (08-14-2023),
JustinReinke8 (08-22-2023),
sdematt (08-14-2023),
and 1 others liked this post.