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It’s actually been over the last couple days/weeks (not today)... I’ve been having a problem with misfires when hot so it’s been a series of “potential fixes” followed by test drives. In the process I’ve also found several other things amiss so fixed them while in there... 1) resistor for low speed fan (passenger side).
2) Front differential (C4) - while slightly involved, very straight forward (and I got a great deal on a slightly used one - $250 😃
3) On my last test drive the brake line to the right rear wheel popped so I had to replace it before I could go any further with my misfire diagnostics. If any of you have been through this you know what a nightmare it is. This line runs from a junction block below the drivers door, up over and across the transaxle and back down to the right rear wheel. This and several other lines are routed and fastened to the body before the drivetrain is installed, so you’ve basically got to drop the engine to get the old one out and the new one in. The key was to drop the engine/transaxle about 5-6”, and rout the new line in from the passenger side - there’s no way to get it back to the original routing without removing a bunch of other stuff (coolant lines etc.) so I had to do a little creative routing, but it’s in, all back together and brakes bled... 🙏 now back to the previously programmed pursuit of misfires...
Yikes! How does this brake line go pop? Is it rusted at some body fastener?
Today I attempted to rebuild the secondary air injection pump because it sounds like a shop vac when I start my car. Unfortunately this is another case where the early cars are “special” and I could get at the bearings to clean and lube them. Looks like I’ll order a used one instead.
I also took apart my steering wheel and replaced the worn out bracket that was causing my horn to honk intermittently. That went smoothly, at least.
You can see how off-center and worn out the mounting points are on the old one on the left.
Yikes! How does this brake line go pop? Is it rusted at some body fastener?
about an inch behind the junction block just beneath the drivers side door. The hard line was pitted - I replaced the short one to the drivers side rear wheel a little over a year ago. I knew this one was coming so I had the new line on hand...
about an inch behind the junction block just beneath the drivers side door. The hard line was pitted - I replaced the short one to the drivers side rear wheel a little over a year ago. I knew this one was coming so I had the new line on hand...
It’s actually been over the last couple days/weeks (not today)... I’ve been having a problem with misfires when hot so it’s been a series of “potential fixes” followed by test drives.
I’m interested in what your misfires involved? I just experienced a random and intermittent misfire the other day while on a long trip. Pending code for misfire on 4, 5 and 6. Noticable hesitation at steady throttle, then came back to normal, then again, a few times. I stopped for maybe 30 mins, and it hasn’t done it since (including a 300 mile drive home).
On other note, I’m working on my UAOS install, and just about have it done
Finally added some duct tape to the worn plastic caps on the centering journals to stop the top rail from rattling. I have been unsuccessful finding a source for only the plastic caps(like many before me) and am currently unwilling to buy the journal. Maybe I'll be annoyed enough when the duct tape wears out...
Today I attempted to rebuild the secondary air injection pump because it sounds like a shop vac when I start my car. Unfortunately this is another case where the early cars are “special” and I could get at the bearings to clean and lube them. Looks like I’ll order a used one instead.
I also took apart my steering wheel and replaced the worn out bracket that was causing my horn to honk intermittently. That went smoothly, at least.
You can see how off-center and worn out the mounting points are on the old one on the left.
Mine is singing too. Ive been told it harmless but def annoying.
Where were you able to find one used?my concern is that It might sing too
@Cityfisher do you have a 2000+ car? If so , you have a better chance to service it instead of replacing it. If you have a MY99 car then the part is $1,500 new and buying used is the best bet. There seem to be a number of dismantlers on EBay and elsewhere that sell used ones at $70-100. I worry the used part will be noisy too, but I could go through 10 of them and still be $500 ahead and this is a 5-10 swap of a non-critical part.
I was actually going to do a video review on the CAE shifter soon, so that will give you a dynamic vantage.
Awesome! I’ll keep an eye out for it.
BTW, my console delete was very home made, its cardboard with black material glued on. I was thinking of using the setup as a template to make it out of aluminum with solid mounting and housing the window switches on it.
I’m wondering about relocating my window switches to the horseshoe, removing the double DIN radio, and just deleting the entire lower console.
I don’t think I‘ll go that extreme until I replace my seats.
Trying to decide which seats to get.
Since it will likely become a daily driver again once COVID is no longer a threat, and I start working again outside the house, I’m considering Recaro Sportster seats.
Originally Posted by zbomb
Here you go Tex
Current state of the rest of the interior
Looks really nice! (and light)
Last edited by TexSquirrel; 08-31-2020 at 09:32 AM.
@Cityfisher do you have a 2000+ car? If so , you have a better chance to service it instead of replacing it. If you have a MY99 car then the part is $1,500 new and buying used is the best bet. There seem to be a number of dismantlers on EBay and elsewhere that sell used ones at $70-100. I worry the used part will be noisy too, but I could go through 10 of them and still be $500 ahead and this is a 5-10 swap of a non-critical part.
01 -- i ll have to search around to find a guide how to service it.
I was born and raised in the City and one of the most beautiful views in the WORLD is the driven across the GGB from north to south BUT that's a really short drive from San Rafel into SF to be worrying about the heater, fog lamps, etc. LOL!
You also have SO MANY other options going north (fires notwithstanding) including drives up Hwy 1 or around via Lucas Valley up towards Occidental and Guernville which I've enjoyed many times before.
Totally agree with you on the northern side of the bridge.
There is something fun, however, about cruising down Columbus Street, along the Embarcadero, and along Chrissy Field with the top down and no traffic to speak of!
Bushing for the linkage connector on the Schnell kit popped out of the aluminum body (gold piece on ground). Should have back together with 997 kit tomorrow, with just the base attached feels pretty nice and smooth into each gear.
Setup an out of the way battery maintainer for my PC680.
Its tiny and needs all the help it can get, so I set this up to be fast and out of the way. Quick connect to the terminals. Keeps wires off the ground and the paint.
Setup an out of the way battery maintainer for my PC680.
Its tiny and needs all the help it can get, so I set this up to be fast and out of the way. Quick connect to the terminals. Keeps wires off the ground and the paint.
Yup, Kill is wired in and power removed whenever the car is going to sit for more than a couple hours. I'm not sure how long it would take to kill the battery - but would hazard a guess we're talking couple days max. In my experience - the PC680 is best kept on a maintainer regardless if there is a draw. IMO, they are pretty undersize for the application and need to be at very close to full power to work effectively.
I ran one on an Evo 8 and it was far less temperamental spinning the 4 Cylinder over, the Porsche though - she wants all the battery has to give.
08-29-2020, 05:44 PM
