Steering vibration after spacer install?
#16
Drifting
The miniscule piece doesn’t throw off the balance, but it could prevent the spacer from sitting flush against the hub, causing the wheel/tire assembly to be cockeyed. That will cause a wobble.
#17
Rennlist Member
^^^ cds72911 is right, the 1mm wobble at the flange will be 5-6mm at the tire tread. Jack the tire slightly off the ground and set a soda can next to it,spin the tire and measure the wobble. ANY measurable wobble will cause steering shake.
Last edited by Porschetech3; 05-31-2018 at 12:51 AM.
#18
Burning Brakes
How many miles? The tt and C4S AWD cars seem to have a lot of problems with front wheel bearings.
Unless really bad, I think it is difficult to check wheel bearings by the typical shaking of the wheel. IIRC, you may be able to check for roughness while spinning the hub without the wheel.
You need to be careful when installing the lug bolts with spacers. Holes need to be lined up perfectly and lugs need to be seated properly. I use anti-seize on the mating surfaces which helps with hole alignment (i.e., slides easier). I am a little suspect with the spacer not being flush with the hub radial surface. Maybe consider what was already mentioned and see if the vibration exists without the spacers. If if disappears, maybe you need to get different spacers.
Unless really bad, I think it is difficult to check wheel bearings by the typical shaking of the wheel. IIRC, you may be able to check for roughness while spinning the hub without the wheel.
You need to be careful when installing the lug bolts with spacers. Holes need to be lined up perfectly and lugs need to be seated properly. I use anti-seize on the mating surfaces which helps with hole alignment (i.e., slides easier). I am a little suspect with the spacer not being flush with the hub radial surface. Maybe consider what was already mentioned and see if the vibration exists without the spacers. If if disappears, maybe you need to get different spacers.
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
How many miles? The tt and C4S AWD cars seem to have a lot of problems with front wheel bearings.
Unless really bad, I think it is difficult to check wheel bearings by the typical shaking of the wheel. IIRC, you may be able to check for roughness while spinning the hub without the wheel.
You need to be careful when installing the lug bolts with spacers. Holes need to be lined up perfectly and lugs need to be seated properly. I use anti-seize on the mating surfaces which helps with hole alignment (i.e., slides easier). I am a little suspect with the spacer not being flush with the hub radial surface. Maybe consider what was already mentioned and see if the vibration exists without the spacers. If if disappears, maybe you need to get different spacers.
Unless really bad, I think it is difficult to check wheel bearings by the typical shaking of the wheel. IIRC, you may be able to check for roughness while spinning the hub without the wheel.
You need to be careful when installing the lug bolts with spacers. Holes need to be lined up perfectly and lugs need to be seated properly. I use anti-seize on the mating surfaces which helps with hole alignment (i.e., slides easier). I am a little suspect with the spacer not being flush with the hub radial surface. Maybe consider what was already mentioned and see if the vibration exists without the spacers. If if disappears, maybe you need to get different spacers.
There are 2 screw holes on the spacers for those "helper" screws that are on the hub, but I don't have extended screws for them, and I contacted the owner at motorsport-tech who said they're optional to use and wouldn't throw off the balance if I don't use them. For what it's worth he's offered to send me another set of spacers if they end up being the issue, but I'm going to go through and check some of these suspension things first.
#21
Burning Brakes
I seem to forget a lot of details these days. I have the same spacers for my rear winter wheels (don't remember the size). And my spacers aren't flush with the radial edge of the rotor (not hub) either. I never had problems with vibration from the spacers.
From what I gather, front bearings don't last 100k (mine didn't). To check the wheel bearings, you may need to remove the rotor to spin the hub to see if moves smoothly. But I don't think you mentioned where the vibration is coming from.
From what I gather, front bearings don't last 100k (mine didn't). To check the wheel bearings, you may need to remove the rotor to spin the hub to see if moves smoothly. But I don't think you mentioned where the vibration is coming from.
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
Okay, so I gave the wheels a spin next to a soda can, and there’s definitely some measurable wobble on the passenger side, not nearly as much on the drivers side. Does this indicate anything specific or just that something is off?
Gave everything one last wire brush and swapped spacers from L to R in hopes that would do something but no dice.
I’ve heard that bad control arm bushings can cause wobble, tried to take a look at the inner control arm bushing but I can’t really determine if it’s in good shape or not. Might bite the bullet and buy 2 new control arms, what do you guys think? Are the fork control arms necessary as well or are the lower coffin arms the ones that typically fail?
Gave everything one last wire brush and swapped spacers from L to R in hopes that would do something but no dice.
I’ve heard that bad control arm bushings can cause wobble, tried to take a look at the inner control arm bushing but I can’t really determine if it’s in good shape or not. Might bite the bullet and buy 2 new control arms, what do you guys think? Are the fork control arms necessary as well or are the lower coffin arms the ones that typically fail?
#23
Rennlist Member
Okay, so I gave the wheels a spin next to a soda can, and there’s definitely some measurable wobble on the passenger side, not nearly as much on the drivers side. Does this indicate anything specific or just that something is off?
Gave everything one last wire brush and swapped spacers from L to R in hopes that would do something but no dice.
I’ve heard that bad control arm bushings can cause wobble, tried to take a look at the inner control arm bushing but I can’t really determine if it’s in good shape or not. Might bite the bullet and buy 2 new control arms, what do you guys think? Are the fork control arms necessary as well or are the lower coffin arms the ones that typically fail?
Gave everything one last wire brush and swapped spacers from L to R in hopes that would do something but no dice.
I’ve heard that bad control arm bushings can cause wobble, tried to take a look at the inner control arm bushing but I can’t really determine if it’s in good shape or not. Might bite the bullet and buy 2 new control arms, what do you guys think? Are the fork control arms necessary as well or are the lower coffin arms the ones that typically fail?
Porsche wheels are very prone to bending after hitting big potholes, have seen hundreds of them bent. IF not bent to bad a good wheel shop can fix straighten it.
Worn suspension bushings/control arm bushings will not cause the wheel to wobble just by spinning it by hand..
ANY looseness in steering/control arms/shocks/bearings will make it difficult to control the wheel and could cause a wobble especially after hitting bumps.
Last edited by Porschetech3; 06-04-2018 at 06:44 AM.
#24
Pro
It seems like spacers place the wheel off-center with respect to the bearings. So even if there was no wobble, the wheel center is now no longer aligned with the center point of the wheel bearings, which can cause forces on the wheel bearings to be slightly greater. I guess that is one reason I have always been suspicious if spacers can create new problems.
#25
Drifting
It sounds like you may not be super familiar with the system, and you might benefit from taking it to a Porsche specialist? Rather than throwing parts at the problem, you might be able to narrow the replacement parts if a pro did the work. It might save you money in the long run.
#26
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Are you sure that it is not your "brand new" tires at fault? What brand of tires? You can check wheel trueness with a simple dial gauge and stand. Don't even have to take the wheels off, just jack up that side so you can spin the wheel with a dial gauge on the rim. That will tell you whether it is the wheel, tire or in the end, something else. Wheels and tires should not wobble.
#27
Instructor
Thread Starter
If you swapped the spacers left to right and the problem stayed on the same side , it's not your spacers, it's your wheel, it's bent and the spacers is just exaggerating the issue..BTW, how much is this measurable wobble? Did you measure it ?..To confirm swap wheels from left to right and re-check. If the problem moves with the wheel then you'll know.
Porsche wheels are very prone to bending after hitting big potholes, have seen hundreds of them bent. IF not bent to bad a good wheel shop can fix straighten it.
Worn suspension bushings/control arm bushings will not cause the wheel to wobble just by spinning it by hand..
ANY looseness in steering/control arms/shocks/bearings will make it difficult to control the wheel and could cause a wobble especially after hitting bumps.
Porsche wheels are very prone to bending after hitting big potholes, have seen hundreds of them bent. IF not bent to bad a good wheel shop can fix straighten it.
Worn suspension bushings/control arm bushings will not cause the wheel to wobble just by spinning it by hand..
ANY looseness in steering/control arms/shocks/bearings will make it difficult to control the wheel and could cause a wobble especially after hitting bumps.
The measure was maybe about 2-3mm in wobble on the passenger side, maybe 0.5mm if any on the drivers side.
It seems like spacers place the wheel off-center with respect to the bearings. So even if there was no wobble, the wheel center is now no longer aligned with the center point of the wheel bearings, which can cause forces on the wheel bearings to be slightly greater. I guess that is one reason I have always been suspicious if spacers can create new problems.
Are you sure that it is not your "brand new" tires at fault? What brand of tires? You can check wheel trueness with a simple dial gauge and stand. Don't even have to take the wheels off, just jack up that side so you can spin the wheel with a dial gauge on the rim. That will tell you whether it is the wheel, tire or in the end, something else. Wheels and tires should not wobble.
#28
I had a similar issue. The farther you push out the wheel from the hub with spacers the more pronounced any imperfection or deflection from road services you will feel through the steering.
I would definitely check to make sure the front wheels are "true" with no bends and balanced. The quickest way to do this is to ask a tire shop to spin it on their balancing machine and observe it at speed. Bends in the wheel can be both up and down from hitting a pot hole, or side to side.
Once that fairly easy and low cost variable is eliminated, then I would move to the suspension. Replacing worn out suspension bushing is what solved my issues. I not only had a bad wobble due to adding spacers, but was developing a wobble under heavy braking. Felt like my rotors were warped, except they were brand new.
I finally replaced my track control arms (coffin shaped), lower control arms ( Y shape fork), sway bar link, sway bar bushings, and inner/Outer tie rods. This solved all my vibration issues and the steering/control felt awesome. Like a brand new car! With 100k+ miles on your car and 14+ years old. All those bushing are seriously worn out or dried up. I would seriously consider swapping out those front suspension parts. Not cheap, but Made a really nice difference in the steering precision and steering tightness. If you plan on holding on to the car for a while longer... might be something to consider.
I would definitely check to make sure the front wheels are "true" with no bends and balanced. The quickest way to do this is to ask a tire shop to spin it on their balancing machine and observe it at speed. Bends in the wheel can be both up and down from hitting a pot hole, or side to side.
Once that fairly easy and low cost variable is eliminated, then I would move to the suspension. Replacing worn out suspension bushing is what solved my issues. I not only had a bad wobble due to adding spacers, but was developing a wobble under heavy braking. Felt like my rotors were warped, except they were brand new.
I finally replaced my track control arms (coffin shaped), lower control arms ( Y shape fork), sway bar link, sway bar bushings, and inner/Outer tie rods. This solved all my vibration issues and the steering/control felt awesome. Like a brand new car! With 100k+ miles on your car and 14+ years old. All those bushing are seriously worn out or dried up. I would seriously consider swapping out those front suspension parts. Not cheap, but Made a really nice difference in the steering precision and steering tightness. If you plan on holding on to the car for a while longer... might be something to consider.
#29
I have vibration issue on my 02 C4S (front drive disconnected) as well. I have new suspension installed all around at 107000 miles and the vibration did not go away. My front control arm bushings were fairly worn, according to shop that looked at it. The car has 5 mm on the front and 15 mm on the back, I think. I will be removing them and will try a different set of wheel/tire set after that. My car vibrates enough to be more than annoyance above 75 mph or so.
#30
Rennlist Member
Maybe I’m missing something, but if the vibration goes away after removing the spacers, and it comes back with the spacers on, isn’t it clearly something with the spacers?