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Leave the cross member and trans mount, just remove the rear motor mount bolts and let the engine down onto the cross member. There is enough slack in the hoses and wiring for this to happen except for the 02 sensors need to be loosened from the holders and power steering hoses from the holders. No need to lock the cams or crank as you will not be removing the chains, just support the cams on the opposite end from the chain with the cam support tool. It can be done fairly easy with the engine still in, the only aggravation will be the exhaust muffler support bracket top bolts, and the top front cover bolts are close quarters as is the scavenge pump on bank 1. No need to remove chain tensioners, as you are not removing the timing chains.edit" you are working on bank 2 tha'ts even better, scavenge pump is easy to get to, close quarters on the front for the cam support tool. Again no need to remove the tensioner as you will not be removing the chain. FYI if you try to drop the engine any further than to rest on the cross member you will have to remove coolant hoses, wiring harness ect.
PS. drain all the oil and still be prepared for it to drip constantly from the removed cover for HOURS. This is the most time consuming part of the operation and can be messy if rushed.
Yes - Bank 2...The cross-member is already out...Crank is locked as well. Drain oil...Hmmm, I wasn't going to do this - I'm glad you weighed in, as this would have been a nightmare now that I think about it!!! As you say, scavenge pump wont be a problem but I can only get one of the bolts in for the cam support tool - the sub-frame is in the way of the other. This is why I think it's necessary to drop the motor a little further than the cross-member would have allowed. Tensioner - good to know, as I was dreading the AC compressor job !
I got up to the shop yesterday and got the cam cover off. Wow, what a mess! While I thought I was being frugal with the sealant, I clearly have no idea what a 1mm bead looks like! As this was the second cover I did, I have a feeling I got a little complacent/careless. As you can see from the photo
both upper and lower passages were clogged - I guess the upper one was just worse... I cleaned it up and re-sealed it, being super careful (I heard that before) and putting strings in the passages this time. When I was done torquing the cam-cover bolts, I pulled the strings out. Going to go put everything back together now...
Very helpful Posts .
How many cam cover R&Rs have resulted in partial blockage ?
Not enough to cause the green cam plugs to blow out but enough to cause oil starvation ?
So you are using red (hi-temp) RTV on this joint? Seems like something a lot thinner to start with would give better or safer results. Like Drei Bond or the Loctite equivalent (5xx - can't remember the number) anaerobic sealant.
3 Bond works O.K. with the engine in the car. A thinner sealant may sag because the surfaces are vertical.and that may easily cause blockage of the oil return holes.
With the engine out and rotated so the treated surfaces are horizontal (not vertical as in this case), thinner sealant may work but why not use the recommended 3 Bond ?
So you are using red (hi-temp) RTV on this joint? Seems like something a lot thinner to start with would give better or safer results. Like Drei Bond or the Loctite equivalent (5xx - can't remember the number) anaerobic sealant.
The red stuff was Permatex high temp rtv. It was the best I could get at the time, as the driebond I had ordered was out of stock. I used the driebond this time and it seems to have worked well. Of course I won't know for sure until I get oil in it later on tonight (I'm giving it a full 24 hrs to cure 😉.
It's a little blurry but you can see the oil passage is clear this time. The red you see is assembly lube on the cam
09-22-2017, 01:58 PM
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