993 TT Air Intake
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I understand from the Ad in the Performance Products Winter.Spring Catalog, that their Power Flow (air) Kit for $445.95, increases performance on the turbo by 17 Hp. It seems that if an engine is an air sucking machine then more air it can get, the more efficient it will be. Has anyone had experience with this product or one similar?
I understand from the Ad in the Performance Products Winter.Spring Catalog, that their Power Flow (air) Kit for $445.95, increases performance on the turbo by 17 Hp. It seems that if an engine is an air sucking machine then more air it can get, the more efficient it will be. Has anyone had experience with this product or one similar?
Last edited by mglamarche; 05-20-2005 at 11:05 PM. Reason: Add Photo & clarify question
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Spend the $445 on billett diveter valves instead @ $260 and take the left over and buy some Mobil 1 w/the remain $115. C/A intakes for the twins are pretty much worthless as far a HP gains from what I've been told by a couple of RL sponsors and respected engine guys. 17 HP, I'm calling BS on that unless I see dyno numbers.
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I lost 10hp when using the $1500 Gruppe M ram air intake and now do not trust any after market system, even the blingy EVO one for the 996tt. Factory is still best + I run BMC filter panel and some extra holes in the side - which are not necessary (or desirable) on a stockish motor.
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Originally Posted by AA993TT
While on the topic of air, what do you guys think of using a K&N air filter for our cars? Pros, cons?
What is the advantage of the billett diverter valves? Thanks
What is the advantage of the billett diverter valves? Thanks
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As far as intake, TB's experience says it all.
In theory, shorter air intake paths to the turbos would make a difference.
Billet can be better, if yours are damaged I would put billet at once, otherwise don't touch them and save the money.
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I run bmc filter and stock intake, this will take you a long way according to alot of previous
discussions, so unless you are seeking 550 hp plus (and have a pile of money to support
that goal), get good filter and do not drill holes.
m.k.
discussions, so unless you are seeking 550 hp plus (and have a pile of money to support
that goal), get good filter and do not drill holes.
m.k.
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Originally Posted by mglamarche
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I understand from the Ad in the Performance Products Winter.Spring Catalog, that their Power Flow (air) Kit for $445.95, increases performance on the turbo by 17 Hp. Has anyone had experience with this?
I understand from the Ad in the Performance Products Winter.Spring Catalog, that their Power Flow (air) Kit for $445.95, increases performance on the turbo by 17 Hp. Has anyone had experience with this?
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im running a k&n filter and unfortunately, the previous owner drilled a few 'swiss cheese' holes in my air box -- given all the issues about sucking in hot engine air, should i buy a new stock airbox??? or should i just forget it.
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Originally Posted by Rob 97 993c2
TB- just curious .... why are you running extra holes in the side of your airbox?
When these engines get to a certain power level they need more air than can be drawn through the existing snorkel set up. On the engine dyno one can actually see the side of the air box being sucked in. A few holes relieve this. I would not recommend the holes (unless you are making ~500hp) since they will draw in warmer air from under the intercooler shroud, but they still seem to be the best overall solution (with the stock snorkel and panel filter BMC or K&N) if one's engine needs the extra air. Whilst my motor was on the engine dyno at Christmas they tried a BMC GT3 Cup type snorkel filter as well as the Gruppe M and found it to be inferior also !
Being the cynic I would love to see the EVO 996tt air box on an engine dyno - I would put money on it giving no benefit, but hey it looks good and its a mod you can actually point out to people
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While we are on this subject.. Some food for thought about ongoing development. The ultimate would be to get rid of the MAF based air sensor and convert to MAP.. This would allow one to duct directly into the turbocharger inlets.. One could house the GT3 style air filters under the car, or in the quarter panels... One could get creative if you had a GT2 wing and use the dual ram air inlets..
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Kevin have you hacked into my brain?
Since I picked up Bob's exhaust yesterday I have been thinking about that very same thing. The place where the mufflers use to be would be perfect.
I thought about installing the MAP sensor and overlaying the voltage signal from each and trying to correct the MAP sensor with this http://www.splitsec.com/products/psc1/PSC1003.htm and try to mirror the output from the MAF. Then remove the MAF altogether install filters on the turbo inlets and fine tune from there.
Since I picked up Bob's exhaust yesterday I have been thinking about that very same thing. The place where the mufflers use to be would be perfect.
I thought about installing the MAP sensor and overlaying the voltage signal from each and trying to correct the MAP sensor with this http://www.splitsec.com/products/psc1/PSC1003.htm and try to mirror the output from the MAF. Then remove the MAF altogether install filters on the turbo inlets and fine tune from there.
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K24;
The hardware is already finished.. It is being beta tested right now.. There are many places to mount the air filters.. If one can try to get the filters away from the heat source, it would be much better. Having short runs into the turbochargers and running a map based unit one could run unrestricted BOV's and dump the rear intake housing.. You could shed probably 20lbs in this conversion.
The hardware is already finished.. It is being beta tested right now.. There are many places to mount the air filters.. If one can try to get the filters away from the heat source, it would be much better. Having short runs into the turbochargers and running a map based unit one could run unrestricted BOV's and dump the rear intake housing.. You could shed probably 20lbs in this conversion.