993 TT Air Intake
#16
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Damn.....on the same page even when I did not mention the BOV's.
Todd at Protomotive has done quite a few like this. I have to assume you are working with Gunter on this. Best of luck. I look forward to the results.
Todd at Protomotive has done quite a few like this. I have to assume you are working with Gunter on this. Best of luck. I look forward to the results.
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You mean like this? ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I am working on the fresh intake ducts from two sources, one is from the GT2 wing openings and the other is from the side openings in my RUF bumper. This is drawing fresh air into the turbos, which location is replacing the stock mufflers. I will be ducting the air to the filters now.
Shortening the air path to the turbos is the greatest benefit. The BOVs are free and linked together.
Here is a pic.
Protomotive has been doing for a very long time, the tricky part will be Motronic tuning.
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I am working on the fresh intake ducts from two sources, one is from the GT2 wing openings and the other is from the side openings in my RUF bumper. This is drawing fresh air into the turbos, which location is replacing the stock mufflers. I will be ducting the air to the filters now.
Shortening the air path to the turbos is the greatest benefit. The BOVs are free and linked together.
Here is a pic.
Protomotive has been doing for a very long time, the tricky part will be Motronic tuning.
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Originally Posted by hatchy
Interesting idea... but would it work? Does the ECU expect a simple voltage output from the MAF sensor?
Jean looks good!!!
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Originally Posted by Woodster
I run bmc filter and stock intake, this will take you a long way according to alot of previous
discussions, so unless you are seeking 550 hp plus (and have a pile of money to support
that goal), get good filter and do not drill holes.
m.k.
discussions, so unless you are seeking 550 hp plus (and have a pile of money to support
that goal), get good filter and do not drill holes.
m.k.
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http://www.idaautomotive.com/changin..._a_map_sen.htm
One example of DIY Maf to Map conversion.
Personally I would change the whole computer to one that uses MAP for fuel map or use a wire-in computer with MAP support.
While your there, install an ignitor/coil system for timing. More HP gains and power curve control to be made there than eliminating MAF for airflow/heat issues.
One example of DIY Maf to Map conversion.
Personally I would change the whole computer to one that uses MAP for fuel map or use a wire-in computer with MAP support.
While your there, install an ignitor/coil system for timing. More HP gains and power curve control to be made there than eliminating MAF for airflow/heat issues.
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Originally Posted by mglamarche
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I understand from the Ad in the Performance Products Winter.Spring Catalog, that their Power Flow (air) Kit for $445.95, increases performance on the turbo by 17 Hp. It seems that if an engine is an air sucking machine then more air it can get, the more efficient it will be. Has anyone had experience with this product or one similar?
I understand from the Ad in the Performance Products Winter.Spring Catalog, that their Power Flow (air) Kit for $445.95, increases performance on the turbo by 17 Hp. It seems that if an engine is an air sucking machine then more air it can get, the more efficient it will be. Has anyone had experience with this product or one similar?
I appreciate everyone's suggestions (some are great!). I haven't heard any real; positive or negative points regarding the Performance Products air intake system. It seems as though some of you have had good results with a "high performance" air filter alone. I not sure if I want to punch holes in my box however. With the current chip and exhaust system the engine produces around 485 Hp. It just seems logical that free flowing air will boost that up. Your thoughts please....
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Simply put save your money and install a K&N or BMC filter. You will not need to punch holes in your airbox at the current power levels. FWIW I have achived 533 hp at the wheels with stock airbox, K&N filter and no holes.
If what you want is more power I would be happy to advise you on where to get it from.
If what you want is more power I would be happy to advise you on where to get it from.
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Originally Posted by mglamarche
I appreciate everyone's suggestions (some are great!). I haven't heard any real; positive or negative points regarding the Performance Products air intake system. It seems as though some of you have had good results with a "high performance" air filter alone. I not sure if I want to punch holes in my box however. With the current chip and exhaust system the engine produces around 485 Hp. It just seems logical that free flowing air will boost that up. Your thoughts please....
YOU WILL NOT GET ANY MORE POWER FROM A SNORKEL TYPE AIR INTAKE WITH CONE ON THE END PERIOD.
However if you believe that a chip and exhaust will give you around 485 hp then go for the PP air intake system, you may be very pleased with your extra 17hp taking you over 500hp
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Originally Posted by K24madness
Simply put save your money and install a K&N or BMC filter. You will not need to punch holes in your airbox at the current power levels. FWIW I have achived 533 hp at the wheels with stock airbox, K&N filter and no holes.
If what you want is more power I would be happy to advise you on where to get it from.
If what you want is more power I would be happy to advise you on where to get it from.
My 522hp required holes in the air box to stop the "sucking in of the sides" I described - did you have a look whilst it was on the chassis dyno ?
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No I would not go near the car while it was on the dyno.
I understand that the airbox and inlet pipes are a major restriction. I will test it with a vacuum gauge to find out exactly how bad it is. I have to assume that its really bad if there was enough vacuum to suck the airbox side in.
After I measure it I am going to review my options. I am really leaning towards a pressure based ECU and dual airboxes where the mufflers use to be.
Before I do anything I need to measure exhaust back pressure with my current setup. Then install viper bob's old exhaust and test again. If Bob's exhaust tests the way it should then I will be free to fabricate some airboxes where the mufflers use to be. I also have an idea for a cold air scoops to the airboxs.
I understand that the airbox and inlet pipes are a major restriction. I will test it with a vacuum gauge to find out exactly how bad it is. I have to assume that its really bad if there was enough vacuum to suck the airbox side in.
After I measure it I am going to review my options. I am really leaning towards a pressure based ECU and dual airboxes where the mufflers use to be.
Before I do anything I need to measure exhaust back pressure with my current setup. Then install viper bob's old exhaust and test again. If Bob's exhaust tests the way it should then I will be free to fabricate some airboxes where the mufflers use to be. I also have an idea for a cold air scoops to the airboxs.
Last edited by K24madness; 05-22-2005 at 04:17 PM.
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I would recommend keeping the stock air filter.. It is quite good. I have seen more damage done to compressor wheel due to the fact that "many" owner tend to install and forget the K&N or BMC filters. They need to be taken out and cleaned, over oiling will cause a MAF failure..
#29
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Hmmm, for those of us whom have removed the airbox and replaced with K&N air filter cone directly on the throttle body, how do we plumb fresh air from the fixed wing? It's gotta be pretty damn hot in the current location.
Jaime
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Originally Posted by ttAmerica RoadsterAWD
Hmmm, for those of us whom have removed the airbox and replaced with K&N air filter cone directly on the throttle body, how do we plumb fresh air from the fixed wing? It's gotta be pretty damn hot in the current location.
Jaime
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