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#47
Burning Brakes
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Jean
Those were the times of my E55.
My 3.8tt on the Gtech is 11.3@133mph. I still have night mares of droping the clutch at 3000 rpm to prove my car can do 3.4sec 0-60mph. With Hoosiers no question 3.3. Unless someone steps up to indemnify for clutch and transmission, I won't bed doing that soon.
Those were the times of my E55.
My 3.8tt on the Gtech is 11.3@133mph. I still have night mares of droping the clutch at 3000 rpm to prove my car can do 3.4sec 0-60mph. With Hoosiers no question 3.3. Unless someone steps up to indemnify for clutch and transmission, I won't bed doing that soon.
#48
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Originally Posted by JJayB
Jean
Those were the times of my E55.
My 3.8tt on the Gtech is 11.3@133mph. I still have night mares of droping the clutch at 3000 rpm to prove my car can do 3.4sec 0-60mph. With Hoosiers no question 3.3. Unless someone steps up to indemnify for clutch and transmission, I won't bed doing that soon.
Those were the times of my E55.
My 3.8tt on the Gtech is 11.3@133mph. I still have night mares of droping the clutch at 3000 rpm to prove my car can do 3.4sec 0-60mph. With Hoosiers no question 3.3. Unless someone steps up to indemnify for clutch and transmission, I won't bed doing that soon.
Thanks
#50
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Originally Posted by JJayB
Jrgordonsr.
Why would I put my almost stock street car engine in an all out race car with serious suspension like yours. Good luck at Fontana.
Why would I put my almost stock street car engine in an all out race car with serious suspension like yours. Good luck at Fontana.
#51
Drifting
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Does anyone think that the combination of my greddy manual boost controller and protomotive's
programming could be my problem? I am positive my old 91 turbo w/1.0 bar boost spring
would be faster than my 993tt with all current mods in its current "state of tune" ???
programming could be my problem? I am positive my old 91 turbo w/1.0 bar boost spring
would be faster than my 993tt with all current mods in its current "state of tune" ???
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Electronic boost controllers do not belong on a 993TT engine if someone wants "safe or reliable".. The object of running a aux controller is to run higher boost setting than what the Factory ECU allows. I have seen factory "STOCK" ECU's running up to 1.1 bar's of boost and clipping 1.2 bars with GT1 turbochargers in the midrange RPM scale.. The ECU quickly pulls the boost in by 4500 RPM.
With that said if you are running low level of boost, .8 bar is actually less than what the factory ECU allows, you slow your turbine wheel down and you lose power.. A static setting of 1bar with a controller will net you more topend but will not match the factory settings at the lower RPM's..
The answer really is how high do you want to raise the boost to give you the power that you want. If timing is being pulled, you could in theory jack it up to 1.3 bars of boost to give you the power at a level that .8 or .9bars is with good levels of timing. Yes, boost will give you power at the expense of your engine and heat. Personally I'd run a program with high levels of timing and lower boost settings, and pay the GAS THIEFS, the money that they want to put higher octane levels in my tank.. You can't have it both ways with an air-cooled engine.. The ECU is very knock sensitive.. Timing is pulled quickly..
With that said if you are running low level of boost, .8 bar is actually less than what the factory ECU allows, you slow your turbine wheel down and you lose power.. A static setting of 1bar with a controller will net you more topend but will not match the factory settings at the lower RPM's..
The answer really is how high do you want to raise the boost to give you the power that you want. If timing is being pulled, you could in theory jack it up to 1.3 bars of boost to give you the power at a level that .8 or .9bars is with good levels of timing. Yes, boost will give you power at the expense of your engine and heat. Personally I'd run a program with high levels of timing and lower boost settings, and pay the GAS THIEFS, the money that they want to put higher octane levels in my tank.. You can't have it both ways with an air-cooled engine.. The ECU is very knock sensitive.. Timing is pulled quickly..
#53
Drifting
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that's what I thought, I am pulling the boost controller out and getting ecu reprogrammed.
(I am going to do 60-130 this weekend with fellow rennlister with identical mods and programming)
I will post monday---I believe my "programming and boost controller are making my car tame,
and I am not interested in "just cranking up the dial"
thanks for the info kevin!
mk
(I am going to do 60-130 this weekend with fellow rennlister with identical mods and programming)
I will post monday---I believe my "programming and boost controller are making my car tame,
and I am not interested in "just cranking up the dial"
thanks for the info kevin!
mk
#55
Drifting
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One thing that was common on the 944 Turbos when using an external boost controller was the inability to know when the car was in limp home mode. In the 944 Turbo, it would limit your boost to 0.2bar, but if you had an external boost controller or a bleeder valve, you wouldn't know it has gone into limp home except that the timing would be pulled and the car felt sluggish. The problem though is that the fuel maps are obviously not fuelling for 1.0bar or whatever your controller is set to because it thinks the car is maxing out at 0.2bar and you could blow your engine pretty quick if you had long full throttle blasts.
I'm not sure what the 993TT digital boost gauge keys off. If it's the ECU, it may still show 0.4bar in limp mode even if you are boosting higher due to your external controller. If that is the case, then you should be able to tell. If it keys off some calculated airflow, then you may never know the car is in limp mode and you could do serious damage to your car. I should say that this is based on my experience with the 944 Turbo motronic and the 993TT unit may operate differently.
I don't see any reason why anyone would want to eliminate the factory boost controlling mechanism except for if you want to create a smoother torque curve that isn't influenced by knock or any outside variables.
I'm not sure what the 993TT digital boost gauge keys off. If it's the ECU, it may still show 0.4bar in limp mode even if you are boosting higher due to your external controller. If that is the case, then you should be able to tell. If it keys off some calculated airflow, then you may never know the car is in limp mode and you could do serious damage to your car. I should say that this is based on my experience with the 944 Turbo motronic and the 993TT unit may operate differently.
I don't see any reason why anyone would want to eliminate the factory boost controlling mechanism except for if you want to create a smoother torque curve that isn't influenced by knock or any outside variables.
#56
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Greg,
Protomotive did the programming and suggested we use the greddy boost controller.
my car is a 96, but i purchased a 97 ecu (which is what todd programmed). I also have
the "advantage" of another guy in town with exact same set-up. Alois does not use a
boost controller does he?
Protomotive did the programming and suggested we use the greddy boost controller.
my car is a 96, but i purchased a 97 ecu (which is what todd programmed). I also have
the "advantage" of another guy in town with exact same set-up. Alois does not use a
boost controller does he?
#60
Track Day
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That's BS. We can't have that. Your 993tt should be good for 600 - 650 hp with the proper bolt ons. It is important to go with a package from a reputable tuner, not just mix and match parts. I had the EVOGT750 package last year and my buddy has a Viper with Roh Supercharger and methanol injection. He beat me by 1 car from 40 mph to 140 mph. I wasn't having any of that....I just upgraded to the EVOGT1K package. It should be good for 950 to 1000 rwhp on C-16. Things will be different this year. We can't lose to Vipers! It's just wrong.