David Danhof

Greetings, anyone out there have knowledge of DIY detailed steps for removing the engine (993)? I have a noisy throw out bearing as well as due for plugs,wires, caps, rotors, valve cover gaskets, RS motor mounts etc. Seemed to make sense to remove the engine & do it all at once given the accessibility challenges with the engine installed.

I plan on a RS clutch & flywheel at the same time. Thanks

David Danhof

Thanks I have the CD version of the manual & had not even looked at it prior to posting. I am spoiled as I suspect many of us are give the information available on Robin Suns website vs the shop manual.

I pulled my 944 turbo motor with relative ease with some web based instructions, the 993 is a bit more imposing IMHO.

JPL 993-C4S

There is a book called "101 Projects for Your 911" on amazon.com, it has a chapter on engine removal... I haven't tried doing that myself though.

Chris L

101 Projects generally covers SCs and 3.2 Carreras. Great book, but the 993 is probably enough different that the factory manual is required reading.

Anyone try removing the transmission only? I'd like to see the steps to do that.

Chris.

dwe8922

Here's the notes I made when I did my clutch two years ago b/c of corrosion on the input shaft. The shop manual is pretty complete, so these are just extra notes to go along with. I think the numbers listed correspond to the steps in the manual. A lift is definately helpful if you have access, otherwise you'll need two floorjacks, and 4 stands, and some assorted boards. Goodluck; I hope this helps.

David

993 Engine Removal Procedure
David Edwards

The most time consuming and detailed part of this procedure is the disconnecting of wires and hoses from the engine to the car, however it is not difficult and really just requires patience. The actual procedure of lowering the engine and transmission require more patience and care. Don’t get in a hurry at this stage, and definitely stop often along the way and double check for things hanging up, as well as your clearances.

Tools list beyond normal hand tools:
- 2 floor jacks (have to be able to tilt the engine/trans. assembly)
- Assorted lumber for spacing and support (see pictures)
- Special 12-pt torx-like socket for pressure plate bolts if changing clutch ( snap-on part #FTSM8LE)
- Torx bits are helpful to have for removing one of the control arms (there’s a similar situation to shock assembly, where the bolt end has a torx pattern, and you can use the torx socket to hold the bold while you loosen the locknut.)
- Optimol Olista Longtime 3EP lubricant. It goes on the input shaft to protect against corrosion; can find it at a Porsche dealer. Part # 000.043.024.00
- Pressure plate / clutch alignment tool

The first step in this procedure is to undo all the electrical wiring, gas lines, and oil lines from the engine to the car. The CV joints will have to come off the transmission, and as I learned late in the game, the bumper needs to be removed as well for the fuel injection system to clear. I also recommend covering the fenders and any paint that you’re working around. I didn’t and was real lucky one time that I didn’t scratch it. This is definitely a full weekend job as a first-timer, and it’s easy to make mistakes where you might scratch your paint. Also, I highly recommend tagging each item you unplug—both on it AND its source. I did this project almost straight through and put it all back together from memory mostly, but had I spread it out I definitely would have tagged my connections. When oil and gas lines are involved, I plugged them off w/ blue tape. This is a messy project no matter what, but it sure helps not to have dripping hoses all over the place.

Follow the factory manual steps—they are pretty complete. I’ll highlight some of these same steps, and note how I deviated from that to better facilitate the shop and tools myself and most DIY’ers have available to them. Also, pay close attention to the photos, especially the ones involving the lowering of the engine. That is really the most helpful part of this DIY since the manual does a good job of what to disconnect and in what order.

13. For the throttle cable, you might want to wait and lower the engine slightly before disconnecting it, as it is hard to reach. Just make sure that nothing hangs up when doing so. Also, when reinstalling the motor, the same is true. You have a much better reach of the cable when the engine is slightly lowered.

14. Once you disconnected everything, its time to raise the car. I found the best way to get maximum clearance for the rear end was to leave the front wheels on the ground, and chock them with something short like a 2x4 on its side. My car wasn’t lowered at the time, so be mindful of the front splitters touching the ground (for those of you w/ rs splitters). I raised up the rear as high as I felt safe, supporting the car with jack stands at the rear jacking points, raising the car from the engine. In hindsight, I would have gone ahead and removed the rear bumper at this point.

General rear bumper removal steps: From what I remember the procedure in the manual wasn’t too good, but the overall diagram was helpful.
- remove side markers
- remove wheel well guards
- remove screws between body and bumper
- remove screws between heat shield and bumper
- remove top rubber strip
- remove 3 screws underneath strip
- loosen “post” Phillips head screws slightly
- pull light
- remove rubber bumperettes
- ease bumper out pulling straight back
- pull heat shielding up to get to bumper shocks (see photo) – remove heat shielding from bumper shock


27. Go ahead and undo all starter wires, just make sure you note them ALL! I had one get tucked upward on me where I couldn’t see it, and didn’t find this out until I had the car all back together, and it wouldn’t start! These wires got in the way when I was lowering the unit, and the starter wires were getting in the way of the drive shafts.

Removing and refitting the transmission

I removed the starter motor for better access, but other than that the manual has good instructions on this part; use the access granted to push the pin assembly out. Pay special attention to the part of taping the release fork during reassembly. The starter being removed makes it easier to get the tape off after the transmission and motor are mated. It can be tough to get the motor and tranny to line up properly, and that will take a little finesse (this is why I tip my hat to those who can change a clutch by just dropping the transmission!). Take your time doing this and make sure everything is where it should be before you start tightening everything back up.

When you apply the olista to the input shaft, make sure it is clean and free of any surface rust. Use just a small amount between you fingers a couple of times on the splines—that’s all that’s needed! Too much will cause you trouble. And, add a small dab on the end of the shaft that contacts the pilot bearing.

Luis A.

David,

Thanks for sharing the details. Do you still have the pictures called for in the text?

Phil

A few weeks ago I wanted to drop my engine. The engine bay needed to be detailed. Here is how I went about my project.

1) sent the car to a Porsche Shop
2) picked the car up

The hardest part, at least for me, was the waiting.

chris walrod

Hey Phil, hows your car now? Big difference?

dwe8922

Sorry, but I can't seem to find my pictures. I used a 2X12 and some blocks under the motor so I could balance it side to side while lowering. The jacking point on the motor/tranny is pretty much at the balance point of the engine longwise. Just take your time lowering. Check and then lower some more to make sure nothing hangs up and most importantly that nothing loses balance and falls. I think I set my creeper under the tranny, which made it easy to roll the the engin where I wanted it. This is a great opportunity to get to the power steering belt and spark plugs as well. Definately take the bumper off. Otherwise you'll have to jack the car so high as to be unsafe. Have fun.

David

Mike J

Sorry, missed this thread and ask.

Complete procedure is on my web site:

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...ing_the_engine

Cheers,

Mike

cgfen

Dang
10 years late.
You should start a new thread...

Mike J

Hey, I thought I would get brownie points going back that far ..

My mistake, scanning too fast.