adame993

Hey guys - I'm actually quite pleased to say that I just completed an engine drop on the car with gearbox work to follow shortly. Between the 'Essential Companion' and Mike J's write up - it was a shockingly simple and straight forward thing to tackle.

With the engine down - its onto the more important tasks of getting the car running. First and foremost, the gearbox needs work(though other items need doing as well). I've gotten as far as disengaging the mounting bolts/starter motor and have transmission separated from the block, albeit slightly. I'm just having a bear of a time getting the thing to come apart. Feels almost like the clutch plate isn't disengaging but I don't see any simple way to release that pressure.

Anybody got a trick? Am I going to need some special tools to get that thing disengaged/reengaged?

race911

No, but is the clutch fork disengaged? By that, I mean has the shaft been pulled?

adame993

No I haven't disengaged the fork or pulled a shaft but largely because I didn't see that in the shop manual I'm working with.

I'm guessing now that I should revisit another manual on disengaging the fork.....unless you know of a write up on this somewhere....

bcameron59

+1 for race911's question. Toga describes removal of the clutch fork shaft here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ow-up-lwf.html

He used a really long M6 threaded rod, I used a longish bolt screwed into the clutch fork shaft and vise grips to pull the bolt, pic below.

If it's hard to pull, and you've been trying to separate the bell housing from the engine, you might be putting strain on the shaft against the bushings. Try bolting the housing back on to relieve any strain, then should be fairly easy to pull.

If you think this is tricky, wait till you try putting the clutch fork back on....

adame993

Guys - this is exactly what I needed. I found the diagram in the shop manual but was a bit perplexed as to the process. This make perfect sense.

I bought the car knowing it needed work - I can't really complain when I have to actually do the work it needs.

I'll jump in first thing in the morning and give this a crack. I've got a perfect M6 for the job.

race911

Glad to see it's been resolved since I was here a day ago. (Short holiday weeks + preparing to leave for 10 days do not allow much more than hit-and-run posting..........)

Mike J

Excellent!

Be carefull when doing the pull not to load the transmission shaft too much -> avoid a lot of twisting.

As for putting it back together, its not that hard. I have been doing it with the engine in the car, which means blind, and the hard part for me is putting the rubber cover back on, and then the metal retainer with the 10mm nut. Its quite a bit easier to do it with the engine out, but with the engine still in the car, much of the work is done blind.

Are you doing the transmission yourself, or sending it out?

Cheers,

Mike

adame993

SUCCESS!! Thanks guys – feedback did the trick and you’re right, its not that tricky once you get into it.

Mike, you raise an interesting question….one I’m debating right now. Tuesday, I went by the local Dallas shop to pick up a copy of the service records for Kate’s last 75k miles. While there, I had a chat with the manager who knew the previous owner and the car well. He and I have chatted a few times both before and after the purchase but this was our first face to face. His feedback on my issue was frank but a bit depressing.

According to him, there isn’t much point in attempting to have a shop look at the gearbox because so few folks are qualified to do so. He thinks my best move (and in fact my only move) is to track down a factory (re)built G50, to the tune of 6500-7500 bucks. I’ve got no reason not to trust his opinion but that conflicts pretty sharply with my short term objectives.

Having bought the car for so cheap, I’d really like to get it rolling at minimal cost then prioritize repairs based on the first thousand miles or so. Plunking down 7k on the gearbox immediately is a tough pill to swallow.

I’m leaning towards opening it up myself. Between the shop manual and RL, I think I can at least get in there and look around without hurting anything. I really think the 3-4th gear selector fork is snapped – if nothing else broke in the process of that failing, I might be able to get it rolling myself. If I open it up and find something gruesome, then at least I know first-hand what must be done.

Mike J

Do a search - I think there are about 2-3 good specialists that really know these boxes if you want to send it out. I would talk to them first. If you not going to change the gearing, and the box is fundamentally in good shape (ie. a fork is broken but all the gear sets are good), then it will not cost the money you are talking about to refresh the tranny.

What exactly is wrong with the transmission anyways? It does not shift at all, or ? Have you drained the oil to see how many chunks have come out?

Cracking open the case depends on your skill level and confidence. You can certainly pull the differential out by removing the side cover. I would clean the outside really well before I dug in, and then pull some of it apart to find out if you can spot what is wrong. What I would be worried about is debris as well, if something broke and metal is in the oil, that can cause lots of longer term issues, and the best solution to that is to strip it totally down.

Cheers,

Mike

adame993

When I bought the car, it was stuck in third per the former owner. Exactly why I'm not sure but I do know that the clutch is at least functional(though how much life it has left, I do not know).

Fluid is draining now and there are metal flakes on the plug. No Chunks.

How would you work through the diagnostic? Should I start with the diff?

I agree and have the same concerns about the debris. I figure you work through all problems the same - one step at a time.

Appreciate the feedback.

adame993

I'm picking up a depth gauge to check the wear indicator on the clutch drive plate tomorrow - hopefully that will shed some light on that issue.

I'm more concerned with the 'stuck in gear' issue at the moment though.

axl911

What shop did you or the former owner talked to? There are plenty of good Porsche shops in the DFW area. Mayo and RAC are two of the best ones.

I knew I was at the right place to rebuild my cylinder head when I saw a bunch of Porsche race cars in the shop being serviced at Mayo's.

JB 911

Adam, I gotta give you credit, you are going after it!

So you can shift the linkage around to different gears but it stays in third no matter what. Or is the linkage too stuck in third?

Hey, I'll be honest I have no experience removing/reinstalling engines, but if you need an extra pair of eyes/hands when you're ready to reinstall, let me know be happy to help.

kjr914

Adam,
Take a look at posts from chaoscreature (Peter). He recently tore apart his transmission looking for "broken stuff". He posted some tear down pics that might be helpful. I think this is the initial post and some others...
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...h-and-6th.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...n-rebuilt.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...t-removal.html

adame993

Thanks for the tip axl - I was at Louden in Dallas. Nice guys and with money as no obstacle, I'd love to have a brand new factory rebuilt gearbox. Who wouldn't?

I just know they didn't want much to do with the gearbox repair - Wonder if those shops would....